Page 226 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Great Britain

224 BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN

1 St Andrews The Ancient Game of Golf
Fife; KY16 Scotland’s national game was
The Old Course, the oldest golf course pioneered on the sandy links
in the world, attracts thousands of around St Andrews. The earliest
record dates from 1457, when
visitors to St Andrews each year. Yet golf was banned by James II on
it was religion that first made the city the grounds that it was interfering
famous. Legend tells that, in the 4th with his subjects’ archery practice.
century, St Rule brought the relics of Mary, Queen of Scots enjoyed the
St Andrew from Constantinople to game and was berated in 1568 for
Scotland and kept them in a chapel playing straight after the murder
of her husband Darnley. Today,
here, founding the city. They were St Andrews Links attracts thousands
moved to St Andrews Cathedral of players every year.
(open daily), after it was built in 1160.
Nearby St Andrews Castle (joint ticket
with cathedral) was the residence of 2 Scotland’s Secret Bunker
senior clergy. Both buildings are now Crown Buildings, Troywood; KY16 8QH
ruined but they still make an imposing Enter the secret world of surveillance
Above Victorian bandstand in the seafront pair. Visitors can peer into the castle’s in this former military bunker, hidden
park at St Andrews dungeon, into which prisoners were far beneath an isolated farmhouse.
dropped with no hope of release. Scotland’s Secret Bunker (Mar–Oct:
VISITING ST ANDREWS The university, founded in 1410, is open daily; www.secretbunker.co.uk),
the oldest in Scotland and brims with encased in thick concrete, was to
Parking artifacts. It is possible to visit two of the have been the HQ of operations, had
There is parking by the harbour.
college quads – St Salvator’s in North the UK come under nuclear attack
Tourist Information Street and St Mary’s in South Street. during the Cold War. In the vast
70 Market St, KY16 9NU; 01334 472 021
The latter has a thorn tree, supposedly labyrinth, visitors can see the basic
Playing golf planted by Mary Queen of Scots. dormitories, communications
There are seven links (seaside) golf ª From harbour car park drive uphill equipment and the little chapel.
courses. A daily ballot decides who
plays on the Old Course. For all courses, to North Street (A917) and turn left. ª Return to the B940 and turn right,
contact St Andrews Links (01334 466 Turn right onto B9131, then left onto then right again to take A917. Drive
718; www.standrews.com). B940 following signs for Scotland’s along coast road to Anstruther. Park
Secret Bunker. There is parking on site. by harbour.
WHERE TO STAY
Below Anstruther Harbour, once busy with the Scottish herring fleet Below top right The Isle of May,
ST ANDREWS seen from the cliffs at Anstruther Below right Anstruther beach, sheltered by the harbour walls
Doune House moderate
Close to the Old Course and the centre,
this Victorian townhouse B&B has
modern rooms with tartan touches.
5 Murray Place, KY16 9AP; 01334 475
195; www.dounehouse.com
The Macdonald Rusacks Hotel
expensive
The Rusacks is set beside the Old
Course and West Sands, the beach
featured in the film Chariots of Fire.
Pilmour Links, KY16 9JQ; 0844 879 9136;
www.macdonaldhotels.co.uk/rusacks
ANSTRUTHER
Murray Library Hostel inexpensive
Stylish, central hostel with superb views
from its private rooms. Pleasant com­
mon rooms and shared bathrooms.
Shore Street, KY10 3EA; 01333 311
123; www.murraylibraryhostel.com
The Waterfront moderate
Smart little guest­house with an
excellent harbourside location; simple,
modern guest rooms; and a restaurant
that serves local seafood. A good
choice for families.
18–20 Shore Street, KY10 3EA; 01333 312
200; www.anstruther-waterfront.co.uk
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under £80; moderate, £80–£150; expensive, over £150

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