Page 221 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Great Britain

DRIVE 21: History and Romance in the Borders 219

Far left The historic Traquair House, dating
back to the 12th century Left Intricate
stonework exterior of Rosslyn Chapel, Roslin

SHOPPING
Look for wool, cashmere and tartans
in the Borders, especially from places
that offer mill tours. Try Lochcarron
Scottish Cashmere and Wool Centre
(Waverley Mill, Dunsdale Road, Selkirk,
TD7 5DZ; 01750 726 100; www.
lochcarron.co.uk). Hawick is a traditional
textile-making town: to get there, take
of classic tales such as Ivanhoe. He and today make a Jacobite Ale, the A698 from Kelso or A7 from Selkirk.
commissioned the house himself and based on an 18th-century recipe, in A key attraction is the Borders Textile
it’s full of character, with suits of armour their historic brewery. Towerhouse (Tower Knowe, Hawick,
TD9 9EN; 01450 377 615).
in the oak-panelled hall, his battered ª From Traquair, go left on B709
leather writing chair in the study and towards Innerleithen, then take A72 EAT AND DRINK
thousands of books crammed onto towards Peebles. On the outskirts of
the shelves of his well-used library. the town pick up A703 going north; KELSO
The windows of the house overlook at Leadburn turn right on A6094 to The Cobbles Inn moderate
the Tweed, the river he loved. A visitor Rosewell, then descend steeply left on This popular restaurant serves modern
centre explores Scott’s life. B7003. Turn right on B7006 and right British dishes. The menu might feature
ª From car park go left on B6360, then again to Rosslyn Chapel. local pork with mustard mash, or
A7 into Selkirk. Here take A707, then Cheviot hills lamb with potatoes and
pea purée. Leave room for sticky date
A708 through dramatic scenery, turning 9 Rosslyn Chapel pudding with toffee sauce for dessert.
right onto B709. This is the remote Chapel Loan, Roslin; EH25 9PU 7 Bowmont Street, TD5 7JH; 01573 223
Borders: there’s not a settlement to be Stepping inside Rosslyn Chapel (open 548; www.thecobbleskelso.co.uk
seen. Follow signs for Traquair House. daily; www.rosslynchapel.com), it is hard Oscar’s moderate
to decide where to look first, there Lively wine bar and restaurant, with
8 Traquair House are so many extraordinary – and polished wooden floors, serving modern
Innerleithen, Peeblesshire; EH44 6PW mysterious – carvings. An angel plays Mediterranean dishes. Mains include
Scotland’s oldest inhabited house, the bagpipes; pagan “Green Men” asparagus and thyme risotto, or home-
made fishcakes, and daily specials such
Traquair (Apr–Oct: open daily; Nov: open peer down from pillars; there is even as sea bass on tomato and basil risotto.
Sat & Sun; www.traquair.co.uk) dates maize, carved here years before the 35–37 Horsemarket, TD5 7HE; 01573
back to at least 1107. It is home to the New World was “discovered”. The 224 008; www.oscars-kelso.com
Maxwell-Stuart family and is steeped chapel, built for the St Clair family in AROUND ABBOTSFORD
in history. The house boasts relics such 1450, is perhaps best known for the The Waterwheel inexpensive
as Mary Queen of Scots’ son’s cradle, as lavishly carved Apprentice Pillar, On the A708 road just beyond Selkirk
well as a concealed room with secret thought by some to conceal the Holy on the drive to Traquair House, this
stairs – a means of escape for priests, Grail, brought here by the Knights attractive Scots pine cabin has an
when Catholics were persecuted in Templar – a theory popularized in the outside deck and lovely countryside
views. It offers good value hot meals,
the 16th to 18th centuries. The family book and film The Da Vinci Code. as well as soups and sandwiches.
were loyal supporters of James II ª Drive north on B7006, then turn Philiphaugh Old Mill, Selkirk, TD7 5LU;
and VI and the Stuart monarchs, right onto A701 to central Edinburgh. 01750 22258
DAY TRIP OPTIONS and heading to North Berwick 2 for before heading to his former home,
the Scottish Seabird Centre and a Seafari Abbotsford 7. Tour Scott’s home,
Edinburgh and Kelso would make
good bases for families and history- to see the birds up close. Finish the day evocative of his dashing fictional
lovers to explore the area. relaxing on the beach. tales, with suits of armour and
Follow the A1, then the A198. Retrace memorabilia, before visiting Traquair
Ghosts and Coasts the route to return. House 8, steeped in history and
Staying in Edinburgh 1, walk around drama. Drive back through the wild
the city, visit the Palace of Holyrood- Border Romance and beautiful Scottish Border
house and listen to tales of how From Kelso 5, see Kelso Abbey and countryside.
people lived cheek-by-jowl in Mary Floors Castle. Next, head for the Follow the drive instructions to get to
King’s Close and the Grassmarket, romantic ruins of Dryburgh Abbey all the stops, but return via the A72 and
before stocking up on picnic supplies 6, burial place of Sir Walter Scott, A699, if pressed for time.

Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under £25; moderate, £25–£50; expensive, over £50

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