Page 45 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Great Britain
P. 45

DRIVE 2: Headlands and Coves  43






















                                                        Above left Windswept headlands of Hartland
       4 Great Torrington      (signed Bude). At Higher Clovelly, turn   Peninsula  Above right Docton Mill Gardens
       Devon; EX38 8AA         right onto B3248 to Hartland, then   Below Mill pond at Docton Mill Gardens
       It’s a scenic drive beside the River   follow signs on minor road through
       Torridge to Great Torrington, home   Stoke to Hartland Quay; park in car
       of Dartington Crystal, where visitors   park. Return to Stoke and turn right
       can see glass being hand blown   down tiny lane to Docton Mill at Milford.   EAT AND DRINK
       (tours Mon–Fri; visitor centre and shop
       daily). At the RHS Rosemoor Gardens,   5 Hartland Peninsula  AROUND BIDEFORD
       there are areas devoted to roses, fruit   North Devon; EX39 6DU   Boathouse moderate
       and vegetables, a lake and an   This blissfully quiet rural pocket is   Lively waterside restaurant and bar
       arboretum (open daily). The Battle of   criss-crossed by narrow country   looking across the Torridge Estuary
       Torrington – a Royalist rout in the   lanes leading to windswept Hartland   to Appledore.
       English Civil War in 1646 – features   Quay, where dramatic cliffs give way   Marine Parade, Instow, EX39 4JJ (take
       strongly in the small, volunteer-run   to a tiny 16th-century harbour with    B3233 out of Bideford along the
                                                        estuary towards Barnstaple); 01271
       Great Torrington Heritage Museum   a small shipwreck museum (open   861 292; www.instow.net/boathouse;
       (open daily).           Easter–Oct, daily). In Stoke, St Nectan’s   no reservations
       ª From Great Torrington, take B3227   14th-century church is known as the   Instow Arms moderate
       to Stibb Cross; turn right on minor road   cathedral for its 350-m (128-ft) high   Upmarket pub fare is served in the
       to go through Woolfardisworthy to A39   tower. Nearby are 16th-century   first-floor restaurant, and there is also
                               stately Hartland Abbey (open Apr–Sep,   a cosy downstairs bar.
              Lundy Island     Sun–Thu) and pretty Docton Mill   Marine Parade, Instow, EX39 4JJ; 01271
                                                        860 608; www.instowarms.com
        This car-free island 17 km (11 miles)   Gardens & Tea Rooms (open Mar–Sep
        off the coast is a sanctuary for puffins   daily), where tea is served in a   APPLEDORE
        with a resident human population of   beautiful room or by the mill pond.  Beaver Inn moderate
        30 – joined in summer by hordes of   ª From Docton Mill, take minor road   Atmospheric old pub beside the
        day-trippers who come to go seal   via Edistone and Tosberry to rejoin   Torridge Estuary, with panoramic
        watching, visit its 13th-century castle         views from its terrace. Noted for its
        and have a drink at Marisco Tavern.  A39 to Bude. Park in canalside Tourist   fresh fish dishes.
                               Information Centre car park.  Irsha Street, EX39 1RY; 01237 474 822;
                                                        www.beaverinn.co.uk
                                                        The Royal George moderate
                                                        An old beamed pub with a dining area
                                                        overlooking the estuary.
                                                        Irsha Street, EX39 1RY; 01237 474 335;
                                                        www.trgpub.co.uk
                                                        HARTLAND PENINSULA
                                                        Docton Mill Gardens Tea Room
                                                        inexpensive
                                                        Small café in the delightful gardens
                                                        serving snacks and award-winning
                                                        Devonshire clotted cream teas.
                                                        Lymebridge, EX39 6EA; 01237 441 369;
                                                        www.doctonmill.co.uk; open Mar–Sep
                                        Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under £25; moderate, £25–£50; expensive, over £50


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