Page 49 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Great Britain

DRIVE 2: Headlands and Coves 47

Above left Passenger ferry departs Padstow
w Lanhydrock e Bodmin Moor for Rock Above right A signpost in Blisland
near Bodmin, Cornwall; PL30 5AD Blisland: PL30 4JE; Jamaica Inn: PL15 indicates its old-fashioned charms
After this stately 17th-century 7TS; Minions: PL14 5LA
house was gutted by fire in 1881 With its small 11th-century church,
it was rebuilt, battlements and all, St Protus and St Hyacinth, Blisland is EAT AND DRINK
to match the surviving north wing typical of the quiet villages that
and gatehouse. The interior was nestle in leafy valleys on the western PADSTOW
replanned to include the latest slopes of the moor. In complete The Basement Café
amenities – central heating, bath- contrast, the wild and often desolate moderate–expensive
rooms and “modern” servants’ uplands are strewn with huge A quayside restaurant specializing in
quarters, all in typical Victorian boulders, dotted with ancient local fish and seafood, The Basement
Café also prepares hearty breakfasts.
style. The gardens, laid out at standing stones and topped by 11 Broad Street, PL28 8BS; 01841 532
the time of rebuilding, feature brooding tors like Rough Tor, an Iron 846; www.thebasement.co.uk;
rhododendrons, magnolias and Age fort, and Brown Willy, which at closed Sun evening
camellias, with woods and parkland 420 m (1,377 ft) is the moor’s highest Seafood Restaurant expensive
leading down to the banks of the point. Around Minions, on the south This is the Rick Stein place that started
River Fowey (open Mar–Oct daily). side of the moor, darkly picturesque Padstow’s rise to culinary fame in the
ª Return towards Bodmin and relics of the mining industry can be 1970s. Bright and airy, it’s just across
follow signs to join A30 towards seen – chimneys, engine houses and the quay from where the lobster boats
and trawlers tie up. A less exalted
Launceston. Blisland is signed off to spoil dumps. Jamaica Inn at option (eat-in or take-away), but just
the left, from where minor roads take Bolventor, an 18th-century slate- as special, is Stein’s Fish & Chips Café
you to the tors. The A30 continues hung inn which inspired Daphne du on South Quay, PL28 8BL. Another
across the moor, passing Jamaica Inn Maurier’s novel of the same name, is option is to hone your own talents
at Bolventor. Turn right there towards mainly notable for its bleak evocative by signing up for the famous chef’s
cookery course of 1, 2, 4 or 6 days.
Liskeard and after 8 km (5 miles) turn setting – and gets very crowded in Riverside, PL28 8BY; 01841 532 700;
left to Minions. high season. www.rickstein.com
DAY TRIP OPTIONS Park in the Victoria Park car park at Park in the car park nearest Tintagel
A great range of day trips is possible Bideford and hire a bike at Bideford Castle, if you can, to visit the ruins. Take
along this route, taking in bike rides, Cycle, Surf and Kayak Hire. Follow B3263 to Boscastle, then join A39 to
beautiful coastline and historic sites. driving instructions from Bideford to Bude, turning left off it at Widemouth.
Appledore and park on the quay.
Tarka Country Gourmet Padstow
Hire a bike at Bideford 1 and Castles and Cliffs Take a boat trip across the Camel
spend a leisurely day cycling along Whatever the weather, the castle at Estuary to Rock, see how the lobsters
the Tarka Trail up the Torridge Valley Tintagel 7 on its dramatic headland are hatched, and work up an
to Great Torrington 4, looking out is an exciting place to explore, and appetite for a fish lunch at Rick
for otters on the river banks. Visit the clifftop coast path provides Stein’s Seafood Restaurant or fish
Dartington Crystal and RHS magnificent sea views. Discover the and chips on the quayside. Energetic
Rosemoor Gardens before cycling legend of King Arthur, then drive to types can hire a bike and cycle
back to Bideford. Drive to the head Bude 6 to build sandcastles inspired beside the River Camel to Bodmin
of the Taw and Torridge estuaries at by the medieval ruins, surf or simply with its weighty judicial past;
Appledore 2 and then relax over a laze on one of its twin sandy beaches. alternatively visit the Elizabethan
well-earned drink and a fish supper Pick up traditional pasties for a picnic manor at Prideaux Place.
at the atmospheric old Beaver Inn or from Pengenna Pasties, or lunch at
Royal George. Life’s A Beach café. Park on the quay at Padstow.

Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under £25; moderate, £25–£50; expensive, over £50

042-047_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 47 20/07/18 7:44 PM