Page 130 - The Rough Guide to Panama (Travel Guide)

128 Central Panama Parque NacioNal altos de camPaNa
Central Panama

Speeding west along the Interamericana, in a hurry to reach the loftier peaks
of Chiriquí or the golden beaches of Bocas, foreign tourists often ignore
Central Panama. It might be better known for the arable and cattle farmland
that extends over its denuded Pacific lowland slopes, and its peasant farmers
who claim varying mixtures of indigenous, African and Hispanic ancestry,
but central Panama does possess its own swathes of sand. What’s more,
strung out along the Pacific coast across the provinces of Panamá and Coclé,
the region’s beaches are within easy access of Panama City. Central Panama
also boasts some impressive mountain scenery harbouring a wealth of
3 wildlife, and a couple of the country’s most important archeological sites.

After grinding through the urban sprawl of La Chorerra, 40km southwest of
Panama City, the Interamericana crests at Loma Campana, where you’ve scarcely
time to gasp at the views across the sparkling Golfo de Panamá and the brooding
peaks of the Cordillera Central – assuming you dare risk taking your eye off the
hair-raising traffic – before it swoops down like a roller coaster onto a narrow
alluvial plain hemmed in between the mountains and the Pacific. Fringing these
lowlands is a string of beaches that lure surf- and sand-loving urbanites in equal
measure. While ill-conceived developments have reduced their charm in recent
years the accessibility of these beaches – most are less than a ninety-minute bus
journey from the capital – is still a draw. Further west lie the towns of Aguadulce
and Penonomé, which have a low-key appeal and provide access to some of the
country’s main historical attractions, such as the old colonial church at Natá,
which contains wonderful wooden carvings, and the pre-Columbian remains of
El Caño, an important ancient ceremonial and burial site.
Yet it is the mountains that hold the greatest allure in central Panama, offering a
splendid array of hiking and birdwatching opportunities. The volcanic tors of Parque
Nacional Altos de Campana afford sweeping vistas of the coastline, while the scenic
crater town of El Valle makes a good base for a range of outdoor activities. Further west,
Parque Nacional Omar Torrijos offers mist-shrouded peaks and a chance to explore the
little-visited rainforested Caribbean slopes north of the continental divide.

Parque Nacional Altos de Campana

Established in 1966 as part of the protection for the canal basin, PARQUE NACIONAL
ALTOS DE CAMPANA is Panama’s oldest national park, and at only 55km from the
capital, just off the Interamericana, one of the most accessible. It’s often overlooked by
tourists, visited only at weekends by enthusiastic birdwatchers or fleeing urbanites in
search of cool fresh air and exercise. But the stellar views from the park’s summits – the
highest, Cerro Campana, tops 1000m – make Altos de Campana a worthwhile hiking

La rana dorada – Panama’s threatened Festival del Toro Guapo p.142
golden frog p.136 Panama’s hat – the sombrero pintado p.143
La India Dormida p.138 Los Cucuás de San Miguel Centro p.144
Hiking around El Valle p.139 La Cascada Las Yayas p.146

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