Page 134 - The Rough Guide to Panama (Travel Guide)

132 Central Panama The Pacific beaches
Punta Chame
The nicest and least built up of the Pacific beaches is Punta Chame, which you access by
taking the first beach exit as you travel west along the Interamericana. The road travels
the length of a 12km sandy spit to a low-key fishing village, where the vast flat beach,
strong winds and choppy waters have transformed this otherwise deserted swathe into
Panama’s kitesurfing centre (season Dec–May) – though beware the stingrays at low
tide. Birdwatching is also good here as the tidal pools and mud flats attract a variety of
waders. Looking northwards across the more sheltered Bay of Chame, you get lovely
views of the mainland.

Playa Gorgona to Playa Río Mar
Playas Gorgona and Coronado were once the most fashionable weekend destinations
for middle-class residents of Panama City, with beachfront properties overlooking the
marbled charcoal sand; Coronado now has a growing expat community. There are two
3 good surfing spots here – Playa Malibu in Gorgona and Punta Teta (predictably
dubbed “Tits” by surfing gringos), 3km down a dirt road not long after the Coronado
exit. The only substantial settlement in the area, 12km on from El Rey, just off the
Interamericana, is SAN CARLOS, worth noting mainly as a place to buy provisions and
catch a bus. The other surfing hot spots in the area lie down two asphalt roads a few
kilometres west of San Carlos at Playa El Palmar and Playa Río Mar. Playa El Palmar
hosts one of Panama’s longest-established surf schools, which specializes in courses for
beginners (Wpanamasurfschool.com). Non-surfers should continue a further 20km to
hit the best beaches on this stretch of coast.

Playa Santa Clara
Although large concrete developments are beginning to encroach, and quad bikes and
jet skis roar about the place at weekends, Playa Santa Clara, 30km east of Penonomé,
is probably the loveliest beach in the area, and you can have it all to yourself midweek.
A seemingly endless belt of pale sand lapped by calm waters, it features a number of
pleasantly informal bars and restaurants.

Farallón
A few kilometres further along the coast from Playa Santa Clara, at the equally
impressive beige swathe of Farallón (Playa Blanca), things are even busier, and the local
fishing village is becoming increasingly hemmed in among greedy resorts, condominium
complexes and gated retirement communities. Most accommodation can fix up some
gentle horseriding along the beach or a boat trip with one of the local fishermen.
arrIVal anD DePartUre tHe PaCIFIC BeaCHeS
BY BUS For Gorgona Take a San Carlos bus (6am–8.30pm; every
Buses generally only drop off passengers at the “entrada” 20min; 1hr 20min) alighting at the Gorgona exit, 8km
(exit) on the Interamericana, from where a 10min stroll or a further west of the Punta Chame junction; the beach is
sweaty 8km hike – depending on the destination – will get within walking distance.
you to the beach (taxis are sometimes available). For Coronado Take a San Carlos bus – at the Coronado
exit minibuses and taxis ($4–5) will shuttle you to the
FrOm Panama CItY sand. The highly visible El Rey supermarket, which contains
For Punta Chame Take a Chame-bound bus as far as the an ATM and is next to a petrol station, marks the turn-off.
Plaza Imperial, Bejuco, just east of the turn-off to Punta For Playa El Palmar and Playa Río Mar Take an Antón
Chame (5.30am–9pm; every 20min; 1hr 10min), and or Penonomé bus (5.20am–8pm; every 20min; 1hr 30min);
transfer to the hourly bus (20min) or take a taxi ($25) for you will probably need to hike the 2km down the road from
the 12km journey. the Interamericana stop to the beach.

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