Page 148 - The Rough Guide to Panama (Travel Guide)

146 Central Panama Western CoClé
LA CASCADA LAS YAYAS
A worthwhile diversion on the way to Parque nacional omar torrijos from Barrigón is La
Cascada Las Yayas (daily 8am–6pm; $2; T6809 6372). A shady 300m trail offers several
viewpoints from which to appreciate the series of three falls, the highest of which is 25m.
the falls, inevitably, are at their most impressive in the rainy season, though in the dry
season there’s the pleasure of taking a dip in the pool at the base of the main cascade. the
surrounding rainforest is excellent for spotting hummingbirds and amphibians, especially in
the late afternoon. A couple of very rudimentary wooden rooms with shared kitchen are
available at the entrance ($10/person).

park’s natural beauty, though getting there can be a very muddy affair for much of the
year – a guide is essential.
arrIVal anD DePartUre ParQUe naCIOnal Omar tOrrIJOS
3 By bus First, take a bus to the mountain village of El Copé. the last bus back from Barrigón to El Copé is around 5.30pm,
There are direct buses from Panama City (6am–6.30pm; and from El Copé to Penonomé it is at 7pm, slightly earlier for
hourly; 3hr); minibuses from Penonomé are even more Aguadulce. Buses heading west along the Interamericana will
frequent (6am–7pm; every 20min; 1hr). There are also services pick up/drop off passengers at the junction.
from Aguadulce (6am–6pm; every 45min–1hr; 1hr). By 4WD taxi To arrange 4WD transport in advance,
Occasional minibuses from El Copé (7am–5pm) make the contact Faustino Ortega (T983 9265). Costs are
journey to the even smaller village of Barrigón, after which only approximately $20 from El Copé to the park entrance, $8
a 4WD can crawl the remaining steep 4km to the park entrance from Barrigón. Alternatively the Navas family (see below)
– on foot that hike will take well over an hour. For the return, can give you a number.
InFOrmatIOn
Park entrance The park entrance is 4km beyond shorter trails. If you want to hire a park warden to
Barrigón, which is 3km northwest of El Copé. accompany you as a guide on a longer hike, it’s advisable to
MIA office According to the new park regulations, you make arrangements in advance via the Áreas Protegidas
should pay your park entry and accommodation fees into department of the regional MIA office in Penonomé, or to
the MiAmbiente bank account in advance (see box, p.42). contact Albergue Navas (see below); if you just turn up on
Check with the regional MIA office in Penonomé (T997 the day nobody may be available.
7538) however, as you may be allowed to pay the $5 entry Centro de Visitantes The visitors’ centre, a few hundred
fee there, or at the MIA office (no phone) at the park metres from the park entrance, provides information on
entrance. The warden will then show you the way to the the park’s flora and fauna.
aCCOmmODatIOn
★ Albergue Navas Barrigón T983 9130. Warm, long- MIA cabin Park entrance; contact Hellington Ríos at
standing hosts Anna and Santos Navas provide three T997 7538 in the MIA regional office, Penonomé. A
simple cinder-block rooms with shared outside toilet and spacious solar-powered self-catering cabin near the
shower; meals, made with fresh produce from their finca, entrance affords sweeping vistas, though conditions are
are served in the family kitchen. Santos and his son are often misty, and comprises a large lounge, a dorm with
wonderfully knowledgeable guides, whose services can four bunks and a kitchen with a stove, fridge and basic
also be hired by non-guests ($20/group), though you’ll utensils. Bring a sleeping bag, as it’s chilly at night.
need some Spanish. The family also owns a rustic cabin at Camping is possible, but there is no electricity and it is
La Rica, within the park. Full board. $90 likely to be very wet. Camping $6, dorms $15

Western Coclé
West along the Interamericana from Penonomé, past the new windfarm – Panama’s
first and Central America’s largest – across the flatlands of Coclé, the terrain becomes
duller and drier. Skirting endless fields of sugar cane and cattle, you enter the crescent
known as the Arco Seco (Dry Arc), which sweeps round the Bahía de Parita west of the

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