Page 149 - The Rough Guide to Panama (Travel Guide)

Western CoClé Central Panama 147
Pacific beaches to the eastern section of the Azuero Peninsula. Plum in the middle of
what transforms into an unpleasant dust bowl in the dry season stands the important
agroindustrial town of Aguadulce, synonymous with sugar, salt and – more recently –
shrimp. Though the town itself is unremarkable, at the right time of year you can
observe its agricultural processes first-hand, while avid birdwatchers head for the
saltpans of Playa El Salado to the southeast. East of Aguadulce lie two of Panama’s
major historical attractions, the intriguing pre-Columbian site Parque Arqueológico
El Caño and the fine colonial church at Natá.

Aguadulce and around
As ever, town life in AGUADULCE centres on the main square, Plaza 19 de Octubre, where
the Iglesia de San Juan Bautista exhibits a mishmash of styles, the original altar frescoes
having disappeared beneath an expensive pile of red brick – the current altarpiece.

El Museo de la Sal y el Azúcar 3
Plaza 19 de Octubre • Tues–Sat 8.30am–3.30pm • Free • T997 4280
The charming two-storey nineteenth-century building that was once the post office
now houses the Museo Regional Stella Sierra (named after a local poet, whose work is
on display), much better known by its previous title, El Museo de la Sal y el Azúcar.
You’ll see a modest assortment of pre-Columbian relics, photos and instruments from
the early days of the salt and sugar industries, plus weaponry and uniforms from the
civil war, during which two major battles were fought in the town. Space is also
devoted to Aguadulce’s two most famous citizens – the aforementioned poet, Stella
Sierra, and Rodolfo Chiari, one of Panama’s former presidents.

Ingenio Santa Rosa
14km west of Aguadulce, north of the Interamericana • Jan–March Tues–Fri 8am–noon; 24hr notice needed to book a tour (in Spanish);
to see the cane-processing, you need to wear long sleeves, trousers and closed shoes; otherwise you can only visit the museum • Free •
T987 8101, Wazunal.com • Take a taxi from Aguadulce ($16–20), or any bus heading along the Interamericana; they can drop you off
at the entrance, from where it’s a 2.5km hike north
Of greater interest than Aguadulce’s sugar museum is a tour around Panama’s oldest
and most important sugar mill, the Ingenio Santa Rosa. Here, during the harvesting
season, you learn about the fascinating process of production, following the action
from the cane fields to the bags of sugar. A small on-site museum, inside the
reproduction wooden house of the pioneering DelValle family, is stuffed with period
furniture and memorabilia. Outside, the grounds are sprinkled with early mill
machinery, including old sugar cane presses.
arrIVal anD DePartUre aGUaDUlCe anD arOUnD
By bus Buses from Panama City to Aguadulce for a few centavos, while taxis only charge $1. Buses to
(4.15am–9pm; every 25min; 3hr) halt at two bus stops on other destinations leave from the new bus terminal on the
the Interamericana. The main halt is the western one, by Interamericana just west of Aguadulce.
the Hotel Interamericana; return buses to Panama City Destinations Chitré (4am–6pm; every 20min; 1hr); El
(similar timetable) leave from the nearby junction with Av Copé (6am–6pm; every 45min; 1hr); Penonomé
Rafael Estévez, which leads into the town centre. Regular (5am–7pm; hourly; 1hr); Santiago (5.30am–6.30pm;
minibuses ferry people to and from downtown Aguadulce every 20min; 1hr).
aCCOmmODatIOn anD eatInG
Fonda la Fula Av Rodolfo Chiari, towards the Hotel Interamericano Interamericana T997 4363,
Interamericana. This place has the best reputation for Whotelinteramericano.com.pa. Bland but functional
traditional food; a basic affair with long aluminium tables en-suite rooms (hot water, cable TV, a/c and fan); the main
under a corrugated iron roof, it is famous for its sancocho. attraction is the excellent large swimming pool, which
Thurs–Sun 6am–late. transforms into a local party place at weekends, so select

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