Page 167 - The Rough Guide to Panama (Travel Guide)

The road To Las TabLas The Azuero PeninsulA 165
FESTIVAL DE LA MEJORANA
Panama’s largest and best folk festival is Guararé’s Festival de la Mejorana (Wfestivalnacional
delamejorana.com), named after Panama’s five-stringed guitar, the mejoranera. The five-day
jamboree, which coincides with the patronales for the Virgen de la Mercedes in late
september, is for lovers of hispanic traditions; there’s not a techno-beat in earshot and
although, just as at most Panamanian festivals, the booze flows, it’s a less hedonistic affair than
many. The plaza resounds with folk music day and night, with dancers and musicians from
around the country converging to entertain and compete. adults and children vie for medals
in playing violin, accordion or mejoranera, and drumming, singing or dancing. There are even
competitions for traditional work clothes – a kind of beauty pageant for both men and
women. bullfights are also on the agenda, usually dominated by seco-sodden guys staggering
around a muddy field waving a filthy rag at a tired bull, cheered on by supporters – a far cry
from the celebrity matadors of spain. The festival highlight on sunday morning is the Gran
Desfile de Carretas, when superbly decorated ox-carts parade through the town,
accompanied by tunas (african-inspired bands of call-and-response singers and drummers).
Inevitably all eyes are on the float carrying the Reina del Festival de la Mejorana, decked
out in her pollera de gala finery and wearing a gold crown. It’s an incredibly prestigious
position, a national honour that lasts beyond the queen’s year-long reign. Families are
prepared to shell out $15,000 for the privilege, and that’s just for starters. should there be more
than one candidate at the pre-fiesta deadline, a run-off is held over three rounds (escrutinios)
lasting several months, during which the candidates’ families have to outdo each other in
fundraising – a prospect that has the organizing committee rubbing its hands in glee, since it
means more cash for the festival coffers. The belle with the most financial backing at the end
gets to wear the crown; her rivals have to settle for being princesses. The highest sum paid so 4
far to secure festival glory is $70,000, some of which the queen gets to spend on her regalia –
the elaborately embroidered polleras de gala cost several thousand dollars – and on other
necessities such as dancing lessons and float decoration.

ArriVAl AnD ACCoMMoDATion GuArArÉ
By bus Any Chitré–Las Tablas bus (see p.157) can drop you only place to stay in town, and it’s near impossible to get a bed
off on the Carretera Nacional at Guararé. during the festival. Rooms are small but fairly comfortable
Hotel La Mejorana Main road T994 5794. Virtually the with lots of highly varnished wooden furniture. $33

Las Tablas
Famed for hosting Panama’s wildest Carnaval (see box, p.167), the provincial capital of
LAS TABLAS moves at a much more sedate pace for the rest of the year. In comparison
with neighbouring Chitré, Las Tablas is a modest town, but it possesses a sprinkling of
tourist amenities, as well as an attractive church and a small museum dedicated to
Belisario Porras, three-time president and Las Tablas’s most famous citizen. Besides
these, the only other building of note is the Escuela Presidente Porras, with a smart
maroon-and-cream exterior, and a distinctive clock tower and majestic portal. Built in
1924, this immaculately kept state school possesses high ceilings, large windows and
beautiful louvred shutters.
Most business in Las Tablas is conducted along the two main streets, Avenida 8 de
Noviembre (also Av Carlos López) and Avenida Belisario Porras, which converge in the
leafy main plaza, Parque Belisario Porras. The vortex of the maelstrom that is Carnaval,
at any other time Parque Porras is a tranquil shady spot to enjoy a snow-cone or ice
cream. Midweek evenings are quiet unless there’s a baseball match on at the Estadio
Olmedo Solé (Jan–May; Wfedebeis.com) – a highly entertaining party atmosphere to be
savoured even if you don’t know a home plate from a dinner plate.
At weekends, many Tableños head for the nearest beach at Playa El Uverito, a broad
belt of chocolate-covered sand 10km east of town, and reachable by bus; here families
tuck into platefuls of fresh fish at the beachside restaurants, or picnic on the sand.

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