Page 172 - The Rough Guide to Panama (Travel Guide)

170 The Azuero PeninsulA The souThern coasT
in wood, with elegant shared living area and hammock- dorms, a shared bathroom and kitchen plus small lounge area.
strung balcony. A vast buffet breakfast is included and trips Bikes available for guests. Dorms $12, doubles $28
can be organized. Reductions for long stays. $99 ★ La Rosa de los Vientos On the road to Playa El Toro
★ Dim’s Hostal Av Central T995 2303 or T6274 T6778 0627, Wbedandbreakfastpedasi.com. Delightful,
4156, Ereservacionesdimshostal@gmail.com. The colonial-style architecture set in tropical grounds 1km
attraction here is the wonderful hammock-filled rancho outside Pedasí and within walking distance of the beach.
beneath two vast mango trees at the back of the glorified Three crisp, bright rooms open out onto a shared porch. $65
eight-room treehouse. Cosy and quirky, the rustic en-suite Tortuga’s Lodge On the road to Playa Arenal T6419
rooms offer a/c, cable TV and hot water. Breakfast is 4465, Whostalrestaurantpedasi.com. Five no-frills,
included and the welcoming owners can arrange modern self-catering units of varying sizes and prices,
excursions for modest sums. $55 aimed at long-term rental ($110–360/week, $300–650/
Pelícanos Hostel C Las Tablas T995 2844. Basic, spotless month). Most possess fully screened windows, a/c and
locally owned hostel with two family rooms and two mixed some have private terrace and hammock space. $30
eATinG
Bohemia Pizzería & Restaurante Av Central T995 Restaurante Ejecutivo C Las Tablas, on the main
2950 or T6905 2330, Wfacebook.com/bohemiapedasi. square T995 2753. Solid Panamanian dining option with
The cosy, rustic interior creates a mellow ambiance to enjoy nonstop TV, inexpensive, heaped platefuls of rice and
varied pasta dishes – try the ricotta and artichoke ravioli – noodles in various guises, plus seafood and meat options
but the deli-pizzas top the bill: super-fresh ingredients (from $8). A good variety of traditional fried breakfasts for
piled onto a crispy base ($9–18). Cash only. Mon, Tues & around $4. Daily 8am–11pm.
Thurs–Sun 5–10pm. ★ Tortuga’s On the road to Playa Arenal T6419 4465,
4 Dulcería Yely C Ofelia Reluz, just off Av Central T995 Whostalrestaurantpedasi.com. Pleasant breezy rancho
2205. Dalila Vera’s bakery is a national institution that has
with wooden dining furniture, saddle-seats at the bar and
served delicious home-made cakes to locals, Hollywood a comfy lounge area. The small Mexican-themed menu –
stars and presidents. Specialities include queques (coconut sizzling fajitas or juicy tacos – helps soak up the beer and
cakes made with local sugar-cane honey and a touch of cocktails. A good Fri-night party venue, with occasional DJ
aniseed) and flan casero, all washed down with a cup of plus food and drink specials. Mon & Wed–Fri 5–10pm,
chicha or chicheme. Daily 7am–9pm. Sat & Sun noon–10pm.

Refugio de Vida Silvestre Isla Iguana
Undoubtedly the best day-trip from Pedasí is to Isla Iguana, 4km offshore. This tiny
lump of basalt, covered in dry scrub and grass, forms the centrepiece of the REFUGIO
DE VIDA SILVESTRE ISLA IGUANA, created in 1981 to protect one of the largest and
oldest coral reefs in the Golfo de Panamá. Home to more than two hundred species
of colourful fish, the coral itself is not in great condition since a large chunk of the
reef was blown off in the 1990s when two large bombs – relics of US training during
World War II – had to be detonated.
Avoid travelling to the island during major holiday periods, when tourist numbers
can top six hundred in a day, which puts huge pressure on the island’s natural
resources. Isla Iguana is a far better destination between May and December, when the
calmer conditions mean crossings are smoother and snorkelling more rewarding; the
sea can be so rough between January and March that it’s sometimes too dangerous to
set out. In the migratory season (June–Dec, especially Sept & Oct) humpback whales
are visible, sometimes in the company of dolphins. The area’s rich marine life also
makes it popular with scuba divers (see p.169).

Playa El Cirial
The rugged coastline of guano- and cactus-covered basalt is interrupted by two
coral-sand beaches: the larger Playa El Cirial, where all boats pull up, accommodates the
park office and a modest visitor’s centre. Playa El Cirial’s small crescent of silky sand
backs a sheltered cove of translucent water barely covering coral formations inhabited
by a rainbow of reef fish, making it a superb spot for swimming and snorkelling.

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