Page 182 - The Rough Guide to Panama (Travel Guide)

180 Chiriquí and Veraguas
5
Chiriquí and Veraguas

From the raging torrents of the Río Chiriquí Viejo and the verdant peaks of
the Cordillera Central to the marine-rich coral, swampy mangroves and
empty sands of the Golfo de Chiriquí, the diverse scenery of Chiriquí and
Veraguas offers some of Panama’s top natural attractions. Magnificent in
their own right, they also provide the setting for a range of exhilarating
outdoor adventure activities, including whitewater rafting, kayaking, diving,
surfing, hiking and zip lining. Though Veraguas is the only province in the
country to border both the Atlantic and Pacific oceans, Chiriquí gets most of
the headlines since – as Chiricanos will proudly remind you – the province is
the granero (granary) or canasta de pan (breadbasket) of Panama. As well as
growing most of the country’s agricultural produce – everything from rice to
strawberries – it also boasts the country’s second city, David, and its best-
known mountain resort town, Boquete.

The Tierras Altas (Highlands) at the western end of Panama, north of David, attract
the most attention and the most tourists, with the cool, sunny climate and spectacular
scenery of Boquete drawing North American and European retirees. The town makes a
great base for exploring the cloud forests or ascending Panama’s highest peak, Volcán
Barú, which can also be approached from the less touristy settlements of Volcán and
Cerro Punta on its western flanks. The latter provides a convenient springboard for the
rugged, little-explored peaks of the Parque Internacional La Amistad.
A large area of the forested slopes of eastern Chiriquí forms part of the Comarca
Ngäbe-Buglé, which includes some of western Veraguas on both sides of the
continental divide and extends into much of Bocas del Toro province (see p.218).
South of the central cordillera lie the Tierras Bajas (Lowlands), home to the tranquil
provincial capitals of David and Santiago, the former coming alive during its annual
international agricultural fair in March (see box, p.198); the region’s other main
festival, celebrating flowers and coffee, takes place in Boquete every January.
South of David lies the Golfo de Chiriquí, a vast body of water with beautiful coastal
fringes and deserted islands, which stretches from the Costa Rican border to the
Veraguas side of the Azuero Peninsula in the east. Surrounded by nutrient-rich waters
that attract dazzling aquatic life, including humpback whales, the gulf contains the
mangroves and coral of Parque Nacional Marino Golfo de Chiriquí and the former
penitentiary of Isla Coiba, which is renowned for its scuba diving and pristine
rainforest. It is most easily accessed from Santa Catalina, a mellow fishing village and
the country’s top surfing venue, tucked away in the southwestern corner of Veraguas.

Boquete’s festivals p.184 The border with Costa Rica p.202
Geisha coffee p.186 Parque Nacional Marino Golfo de
Whitewater rafting from Boquete p.188 Chiriquí activities p.203
Safety in the mountains p.190 Staying with the Ngäbe in Soloy p.205
Activities around Volcán p.193 Héctor Gallego and the Santa Fé
Crossing the border at Río Sereno p.195 Cooperative p.208
The international agricultural fair p.198 Santa Catalina activities and tours p.210
Buses to Costa Rica p.200 The penal colony on Coiba p.214

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