Page 177 - The Rough Guide to Panama (Travel Guide)

The WesTern Azuero The Azuero PeninsulA 175
and hundreds of streams that tumble down to the coast, leaving natural swimming pools
and waterfalls in their wake. The protected area extends out into the sea, including
precious mangroves and secluded coves enclosed by sheer cliffs, providing sheltered
sands for hawksbill, olive ridley and even some leatherback turtles to lay their eggs.
Created in 1985, in a desperate attempt to stop the Azuero’s haemorrhaging of forest
through destructive agricultural practices, the national park and its protecting agencies
are helping the population of about two thousand – scattered around 25 communities –
to make a livelihood from sustainable agroforestry, ecotourism, animal husbandry and
fishing projects. The best time to visit is early in the dry season when the views are more
spectacular, the mud less overwhelming and the hiking more pleasurable, yet the
waterfalls and rivers – two of the major attractions – still hold sufficient water to impress.
ArriVAl AnD DePArTure PArQue nACionAl Cerro hoYA
FROM THE WEST FROM THE EAST
The park is most accessible from the Western Azuero, via To El Cobachón To get to Cerro Hoya from the east, take
the community of Flores, close to the northern park the dirt road west from Cambutal for 22km to the hamlet of
boundary, or, less easily, via the coastal hamlet of El Cobachón, close to the park boundary. Whether on
Restingue, which marks the southwestern park boundary. horseback, in a 4WD or on foot (which entails some
To Flores A tarred road leaves the Interamericana just east shortcuts along the beach at low tide, so a tide timetable is
of Santiago, skirting the coast for more than 90km down to essential), the road from Cambutal is only accessible in the
the village of Arenas, where it heads east the last 6km to dry season, since several rivers need to be forded.
Flores. There are infrequent buses from Santiago to Arenas Alternatively, take a boat from Cambutal or neighbouring
and Flores (see p.176). Los Buzos to El Cobachón, which will be costly ($80), unless 4
To Restingue Getting to Restingue means travelling you get a lift with MIA staff or catch a colectivo heading that
south from Arenas along an 18km dirt road (high-clearance way. Marcelino Rodríguez usually accepts campers in El
4WD necessary) and crossing two major rivers. This is only Cobachón.
possible in the dry season, when the occasional chiva also Guides Daniel Sáenz, based in El Cobachón, comes highly
makes the journey; once the rains start, horses may be able recommended, and can arrange horses. Contact his sister,
to pass, or you have to travel by boat. Regina Caballero, in Cambutal (T6221 5060), or the MIA
Guides In Flores seek out Miguel Moreno (T6597 0280), representative (see below).
who runs a small shop opposite the primary school, and
can guide in the park – though note he can only receive ORGANIZED TOURS
text messages (in Spanish) on weekday mornings. Juan Organized tours You can explore the park with Tanager
Velásquez is also recommended. The village public phone is Tourism, run by the owners of Hotel Heliconia south of
T333 0596. You will also be able to find someone to guide Mariato (see p.176); other accommodation options also
you in Restingue. offer excursions.
inForMATion
MIA offices However you choose to get to Cerro Hoya, you Ortega T6215 7408), Las Tablas (T500 0921), Tonosí
will need to consult MIA: in Cambutal (contact Armodio (T995 8180) or Santiago (T998 4387).

The Western Azuero
The little-explored coastline of the Western Azuero has a very different feel to the dry,
flat stretches of sand that line the eastern seaboard. Receiving much more rain, the
countryside is greener and lusher, despite the cattle ranching and occasional rice
cultivation. As the sole access road threads its way more than 90km south from the
Interamericana through an increasingly undulating landscape, it offers tantalizing
glimpses of rocky coastline, hidden coves and foaming surf. Best of all, since the
beaches face west, they witness glorious sunsets. Sprinkled along the coast some
delightful new lodgings offer perfect places to unwind for a few days.
Settlements are few and far between in the Western Azuero, and transport is sporadic:
the first place of note, some 50km south of the turn-off from the Interamericana, is

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