Page 225 - The Rough Guide to Panama (Travel Guide)

ArchipiélAgo de BocAs del Toro Bocas del Toro 223
SAFETY IN BOCAS
The collapse of the banana trade and the social inequalities exacerbated by the mushrooming
tourism and real-estate industries have led to an increase in petty crime. Valuables can go
missing from even the most apparently empty beach, especially on islas colón and
Bastimentos, despite police patrols. even in daylight there are periodic robberies on isla
Bastimentos, on the path across to Wizard Beach from old Bank, with the occasional report of
guys threatening with knives. if you hike this path, seek local advice and ensure that you are in
a group. however tempting, camping on any of the beaches on the main islands outside an 6
official campsite is very unwise.
Another safety issue concerns boats. serious, even fatal collisions have occurred in the bay,
usually at night, generally involving an unlicensed or inebriated boatman and/or a lack of
lights on the vessel. don’t get into a boat until you’ve assessed the level of risk. And finally, take
note of riptides, which are prevalent in the archipelago. Ask locals about currents, riptides and
rogue waves before swimming, especially on Bastimentos. every year, someone drowns.

from which to explore the islands, beaches and reefs of the archipelago. It also offers an
ever expanding choice of tours and activities, from the traditional pursuits of surfing,
diving and snorkelling to options such as forest walks, kayaking and wildlife viewing, as
well as yoga and massage. Despite the lush primary and secondary rainforest on the
island, most tourist activity happens on the wild and relatively deserted beaches of the
east coast or the more sheltered shallows of Boca del Drago, on the western point close
to the mainland.
Bocas Town
Arriving in BOCAS TOWN, you are welcomed to the island’s casual melee by a spread
of rickety, wooden, pastel-painted buildings and a laidback, often English-speaking,
population. After falling into decline with the collapse of the banana trade (see p.221),
the town was catapulted into another era by a steady trickle of backpackers and
American retirees in the 1990s, followed by a country-wide real estate boom. Around
twenty years ago there were only three hotels here; now there are more than seventy.
There’s no sightseeing as such – experiencing Bocas is more about hanging out in the
waterfront bars and restaurants, soaking up the relaxed vibe, getting out on the water
during the day and partying at night.
The town centre
Bocas is laid out on a simple grid system with most activity centred on Calle 3, the
broad main street that runs north–south, spilling into Calle 1, which bulges out into
the bay, where the decks of attractive wooden hotels, bars and restaurants stretch over
the water on stilts. Halfway up the main drag, lined with supermarkets, souvenir shops
and stalls, hotels and hostels, sits Parque Bolívar, the social heart of the town, shaded by
coconut palms and fig trees, with a bust of the Liberator, the town’s sole monument.

Playa El Istmito
The nearest stretch of sand and general town beach is tatty Playa El Istmito, on the
eastern side of the causeway that links Bocas with the rest of Isla Colón. It is a decent
place for a beer, especially during September’s Feria del Mar festivities (see box, p.226).

WATER IN BOCAS
Tap water is not safe to drink throughout the province; meanwhile, used plastic bottles are a
major environmental headache, especially on the islands. Where possible, try to buy the large
gallon containers and refill a smaller bottle from them, rather then purchase a succession of small
bottles. Better still, try to fill up from the eco-aware establishments that provide filtered water.

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