Page 229 - The Rough Guide to Panama (Travel Guide)

ArchipiélAgo de BocAs del Toro Bocas del Toro 227
GeTTING aroUNd
There are currently two minibus services (see below); otherwise, beyond the town centre – which is easily navigable on
foot – you’re reliant on taxis.

By taxi Though generally unnecessary in town, taxis are and forth from Bocas to Isla Carenero ($1 to the near shore;
readily available (0.60¢/person colectivo rate within town). $2 anywhere else) and to Old Bank on Bastimentos ($3) at
Travelling further afield, a 4WD taxi to Playa Bluff will set fixed rates, from around dawn to dusk. Taxis leave once
you back $15–20 depending on how far up the beach you they’ve gathered a few passengers, every 10–15min or so, 6
are going, and the condition of the road. and the rates go up at night. The main water-taxi dock for
By bus There are two bus routes across the island. Transporte Carenero is by El Barco Hundido on C 1, while for Old Bank,
Boca del Drago (T774 9065) operates the more regular and Bastimentos, you should head for the Boteros Bastimentos
reliable service, to and from Boca del Drago. It leaves from water-taxi dock, on the main street, opposite Av “C”. On C 1,
Parque Bolívar approximately hourly (7am–6pm) and opposite Av “D”, Jampan Tours (T757 9619) runs a regular
departs from outside Yarisnori in Boca del Drago (see p.225) water-taxi service to Red Frog Beach on a fixed timetable
at similar intervals for the return trip. In high season, private (usually 5–6 daily; $8 one way, $15 return).
minibuses leave from just south of Parque Bolívar when full By bike The main cycling destinations are Playa Bluff and
and charge the same rates. There is also a bus service to Playa Boca del Drago. Several places in Bocas Town rent out bicycles
Bluff, when the road is dry, which also leaves from Parque (around $10–15/day; $50/week) in varying states of repair.
Bolívar (7am to mid-afternoon; roughly every 1hr–1hr Ixa Bikes, on Av “H’ and C 5, is a good choice as they also do bike
30min; 20–30min); the last bus returns around 4.30–5pm. repairs. Flying Pirates (T6689 5050, Wflyingpiratesbocas
By water-taxi Water-taxis regularly ferry people back .com) also offers quad-bike rental ($140/day).

DIVING, SNORKELLING AND SURFING IN BOCAS
Diving and snorkelling are the most established diversions around Bocas Town. The area offers
the healthiest coral on the caribbean coast, covered in sponges and anemones, fed on by
colourful reef fish and frequented by turtles and nurse sharks, while moray eels, lobsters and crabs
hide in the crevices. The main problem with snorkelling and diving in Bocas is drastically reduced
visibility caused by run-off from the mainland following heavy rains, which are frequent, even in
the dry season. strong winds and rough seas limit accessibility to more remote dive sites too.
Bocas also has a growing reputation for surfing, and while it can’t match santa catalina
(see pp.210–212) for consistency of waves, it offers some excellent rides when conditions are
right, generally between december and March.
DIVING AND SNORKELLING
snorkelling highlights include the distant Cayos Zapatillas in the national marine park, though
currents are strong, and, off the southern tip of Bastimentos, the magical soft coral gardens of
Cayo Crawl. closer to base, the shallows by hospital point off Isla Solarte are favoured by both
snorkellers and divers, who can explore the impressive wall and rocky outcrop sheltering schools
of fish. The best diving is undeniably Tiger Rock, a group of beautiful pinnacles visited by schools
of large fish, which lies 40km offshore and requires a full day-trip and calm seas. The little-visited
Escudo de Veraguas, an island at the far east of the archipelago, offers a variety of dive sites and
can be visited on multiday dive trips with la Buga dive & surf (see p.229).
SURFING
Most surf spots are for experienced or intermediate surfers, though everyone will need reef
booties for the sharp reef breaks and to protect against sea urchins. on the east coast of isla
colón, top billing goes to Playa Bluff, which can produce huge tubes when the swell is in
and is only for experienced practitioners. Dumpers – nearer Bocas Town – provides a tricky
reef-bottom left break, whereas the reef break at nearby Paunch is usually the place to take
beginners. over on isla Bastimentos the left and right beach breaks of Playa Wizard and
Red Frog Beach are also usually accessible to novice and intermediate surfers. other hot
spots for experts include the reef break that lies off Isla Carenero and along the northern
coast of Bastimentos; and, between the two islands, the giant waves of Silverbacks.
Numerous places rent out boards in various states of repair ($15–20/day), and several places offer
lessons ($50–60/half-day; $90/day), transfers to surf spots and even guided surf tours (see p.229).

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