Page 245 - The Rough Guide to Panama (Travel Guide)

Mainland Bocas Bocas del Toro 243
Three communities are involved in ecotourism projects, which give visitors the
chance to learn about medicinal plants, Naso history and culture, hike in the rainforest,
make and travel on a traditional bamboo raft (balsa), and visit the capital. The Naso are
warm and welcoming and the spectacular river trips set against the brooding backdrop
of the Talamanca range alone make a visit worthwhile, though to do the place and the
people justice you should plan at least a two-night stay. Among the many pernicious
effects of the recent controversial hydroelectric dam (see box, p.241) communities now
suffer from periodic daytime noise of buses transporting workers to and from the dam.
Once you’re on the WEKSO trail or up in Seiyik, traffic disturbance is thankfully 6
absent, as it is at night in the communities.

arrIVal aNd INForMaTIoN THe Naso VIllaGes
By bus and boat The communities are 45min–1hr 15min station in Changuinola (6.30am–8pm; every 20min; 25min).
(depending on conditions) upriver by boat from El Silencio, the Contact details Contact details for all three communities
location of the Naso jetty (embarcadero) on the Río Teribe. To are on the Bocas del Toro community tourism website
reach El Silencio take the regular bus from the main bus (Wredtucombo.bocasdeltoro.org).

Guabito and the Costa Rica border
From Changuinola, the road runs 17km to the border with Costa Rica at Guabito–
Sixaola, where, on the Panamanian side, there is little more than a handful of shops.
It’s a short walk from immigration across the old railway bridge to Costa Rica (an hour
behind Panama time), where you can change currency in the town of Sixaola.
arrIVal aNd INForMaTIoN GUaBITo aNd THe cosTa rIca Border
Getting to the border To reach the border from operates of being directed to a hut to pay a bogus
Changuinola, take one of the colectivos or private taxis ($8) “municipal tax”. Once through immigration, head down
hanging around the bus terminal, or, if you’re in no hurry, the steps for the bus to Changuinola (5.30am–7.30pm;
the bus marked for the village of Las Tablas (5.30am–7pm; 30min), from where there are frequent connections to
every 20min; 30min). other destinations in Panama (see p.239). Alternatively,
Onward travel in Costa Rica After getting an exit stamp cross back under the bridge for either a colectivo or
at Panamanian immigration (8am–5.45pm; T759 7019), private taxi to Changuinola (colectivo $1.50/person,
cross the border bridge to Costa Rican immigration (same private $10; 20min) or Almirante (colectivo $8–10/
hours, though Costa Rica is an hour behind Panama time) person, private $25–30; 50min) for the water-taxi to
in Sixaola. There you can catch a through-bus to San José Bocas Town (see p.226); note that some taxi drivers are
(6am, 8am, 10am & 3pm) or to Puerto Viejo in southeastern not beyond spinning yarns about buses not running or
Costa Rica (Mon–Sat hourly, Sun every 2hr; 90min). taking longer than they actually do in order to secure
Arriving from Costa Rica After getting your exit stamp clients. Since there is no bank or ATM in Guabito, make
from Costa Rican immigration and paying your $8 exit sure you are carrying sufficient US dollars for you to reach
charge, cross the bridge to Panamanian immigration – your next destination.
where you may have to show proof of onward travel (a Immigration office The immigration office is on the
return bus ticket will suffice) and the ability to support railway bridge (daily 8am–5.45pm, though they will close
yourself financially. Beware of the scam that occasionally for lunch; T759 7019).

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