Page 252 - The Rough Guide to Panama (Travel Guide)

250 Guna Yala
with improvements in the only road link with the comarca, which makes it just a
three-hour drive from Panama City at most, have led to a great increase in visitor
numbers. This in turn has inevitably put great strain on the natural resources, and
sometimes on Guna–tourist relations, and has undoubtedly diminished the appeal of
this particular group in high season. Visiting the more isolated eastern islands, such as
Agligandi or Mamitupu, you’ll experience greater cultural engagement with the Guna –

GUNA YALA ESSENTIALS
WHEN TO GO
Peak tourist season in Guna Yala, as elsewhere in Panama, is the dry season (roughly mid-Dec
to April) though for some of the period, you’ll suffer from the trade winds (Dec–Feb/March),
which whip up the waters into large waves, making travel uncomfortable – and scary at times –
impairing snorkelling and leaving the outer islands inaccessible. Late March and April are more
appealing times to visit, although water levels can be low on the mainland, restricting river trips.
If possible, avoid the popular palm-topped islets of western Guna Yala – Isla Perro Chico above
7 all – at weekends or public holidays during the dry season. At this time hundreds of weekenders
and day-trippers flock here from Panama City, saturating the beaches with deckchairs, vast cooler
boxes and sound systems, making it almost impossible to see the sand, never mind sit on it.
The wet season lasts from May to mid-December; in the early months, from May to July, the
unbearable humidity and lack of breeze is balanced by a sea that can be millpond-still – perfect
for snorkelling, except during the afternoon downpours, when run-off muddies the waters.
June to October spells the season for chocosanos, terrifying electric tempests that generate
monstrous waves capable of flooding an island and dashing a ship onto a reef in an instant.
WHAT TO TAKE
A mosquito net may be a good idea, together with lashings of repellent, sun cream, a
basic first-aid kit and a torch and/or candles (there is limited or no electricity on some
islands), plus a sheet sleeping bag in high season – if water is short, or the weather bad,
sheets may not get a full wash. Some kind of waterproof protection, such as a plastic bin
liner, is desirable to protect your gear from getting soaked in the boat, and you may want a
breathable waterproof for yourself. In budget accommodation it’s recommended to take
snacks with you, as meal portions are often small, plus a toilet roll. It’s not advisable to drink
tap water in Guna Yala. Some hotels provide purified water for guests at meals; most charge.
Bottled water is on sale in most islands, but is expensive and its disposal an environmental
headache; it’s far better to use a water filter or purifying tablets (see box, p.85). Use of
snorkelling equipment is sometimes included in package deals, or the cabañas may rent
out masks ($5–6). In either case, masks are often not in good condition, so if you intend to
spend some time in the area, consider buying a cheap one in Panama City (see box, p.85).
TAXES AND MONEY
At the road entrance to the comarca at Nusugandi – around 20km before you get to the coast –
all non-Guna have to pay a tourist tax ($20 for foreigners), which is not included in transport
costs. In addition, there is $2 fee to use the docks at Cartí or Barsukum (see opposite). Visitors
generally also have to pay a community tax ($3–10 for the village-islands, $3–5 on near-deserted
beach islands); these costs are usually not included in tour packages (see box, pp.252–253). You
have to take all the cash you might need with you, in small denominations – the comarca’s only
bank, in Narganá, does not accept credit-card withdrawals. Some of the more expensive lodges
accept online credit-card payments for a basic package, but extras – drinks, community taxes,
extra tours, snorkel rental and so on – will usually need to be paid for in cash.
COMMUNICATION
Mobile coverage has now reached most parts of the comarca through the Digicel and Más
Móvil networks, though the signal may be weak and the system is often down when the
weather is bad. There is virtually no wi-fi access across the region (though you may manage
to use a signal from a government building by lurking outside). In 2017 the government
stated its intention to set up five wi-fi hot spots in Guna Yala, but don’t get your hopes up.

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