Page 270 - The Rough Guide to Panama (Travel Guide)

268 Guna Yala The easTern isles
Puerto Obaldía
PUERTO OBALDÍA is the last major “town” before the Colombian border. Despite
a tidy park, a decent playing field, clean streets and a scenic seaside location, it is an
unendearing encampment, where the frontier police in combat gear guard against drug
runners, Colombian guerrillas and smugglers. Though technically within the comarca,
the community has a mixed population of Guna, Colombian refugees and non-Guna
Panamanians. You could end up with a more intimate knowledge of the town than you
would like unless you’ve booked an air ticket to Panama City in advance, since seats are
often oversubscribed.
aRRIVal anD InFORMaTIOn PuERTO OBalDÍa
BY PLANE conditions are considered “safe”. It is imperative that you
Air Panama operates mid-morning flights – check with the check the condition of the boat beforehand (see p.254).
airline the day before to confirm the time – from Panama To Colombia Visitors travelling on to Colombia from
City’s Albrook Airport to Puerto Obaldía daily except Sat, Puerto Obaldía (see p.24) take a launch (1hr; $15) to the
7 with almost immediate return flights to the capital (1hr; resort town of Capurganá, from where a further ferry to
$106). The airstrip is a 2min walk from the centre. Flights Turbo, or Necoclí, and onward bus to Medellín or Cartagena
are in great demand, especially those back to Panama City, are possible.
so you should book several weeks in advance.
IMMIGRATION
BY BOAT Before crossing the Colombian border, or after arriving from
To Guna Yala Regular unscheduled speedboats head west Colombia, you’ll need to visit immigration (daily 8am–4pm;
up the comarca to Cartí (6–8hr; $100/person) from Puerto $20 charge to attend at other times), just off the park, for an
Obaldía, usually departing before 9am when they’re full; entry or exit stamp. When arriving in Panama, you may also
ask around. You should also be able to negotiate a price if be asked for proof of onward travel out of the country and
you want to be dropped off at another community along evidence of the means to support yourself financially. You
the way. Seas can be particularly rough and dangerous over then need to swing by the police post, to register and have
the first three hours (especially Dec–Feb), even when your belongings searched (see p.25).
aCCOMMODaTIOn anD EaTInG
Hotel Doña Primitiva Near the park. Simple but clean a pleasant patio where you can get a decent breakfast and
fan-ventilated rooms, with cold en-suite shower, lunch ($4), though options are limited. Arrive early for
accommodating two to four people. $40 lunch, since food often runs out when visitor numbers are
Las Tres “L” Corner of the park. Friendly restaurant with high. Daily 6.30am–4pm.

Armila
Highly recommended is a detour to the welcoming Guna community of ARMILA,
which is idyllically located at the base of a forest-cloaked hill where two rivers
empty into the sea. Atypically spacious, and run by five sailas, the village boasts an
intriguing mix of traditional cane cabañas and more substantial Afro-Antillean-style
wood-and-thatch houses, sometimes painted or on stilts. Beyond, more than 4km of
cream-coloured windswept beach extends along the coast. Turtle watching is one of
several tourist activities; others include jungle walks, river trips by dugout and
swimming in the local freshwater lagoon. Provided the sea is calm, beach and

SECURITY IN THE FRONTIER ZONE
The security situation in the frontier zone is liable to change at a moment’s notice so be sure
to check out the latest information on the ground before you head into this area. in addition to
the relatively safe boat-hopping route (see above), some travellers take the unofficial overland
route from Puerto Obaldía via la Miel, hike across the border to sapzurro in Colombia, and
then head on to Capurganá. however, this is not advisable; although many people make the
journey without a hitch, a few never arrive.

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