Page 268 - The Rough Guide to Panama (Travel Guide)

266 Guna Yala The easTern isles
The eastern isles
What might loosely be described as the eastern isles stretch over the whole of the eastern
half of the comarca, which, outside the sprinkling of lodges near Achutupu (Assudub) and
Mamitupu (Mammidub) sees precious few outsiders beyond the odd yacht and Colombian
trading vessel. Here, lacking the protection of an offshore reef, the seas are rough and
transport between communities sparse. After storms, rubbish jettisoned from boats will
wash up on the shore in places. Islands of note include Agligandi – home of the Guna
Revolution – while the twin settlement of Ogobsucum and Ustupu boasts the archipelago’s
largest population. Marking the eastern limit of the comarca, on the mainland, lies the
border town of Puerto Obaldía and the more appealing mainland community of Armila.

Agligandi
Westernmost of the eastern islands, overlooking coastal mangroves (ailan), Agligandi
7 (previously Ailigandi) has its spot firmly cemented in Guna history as the first place of
organized resistance in the Guna Revolution of 1925; note the Guna swastika flag
(representing an octopus) fluttering proudly above the rooftops. It’s a good place to witness
the annual revolution celebrations (see box, p.261). A pivotal figure in the rebellion was
Chief Olokindibipilelel (Simral Colman), whose statue – incongruously clad in suit and
bowler hat – claims a central position on the densely populated island of around 1200,
next to the obligatory basketball court. A warren of pathways weaves through tightly
packed thatched dwellings, in the midst of which is squeezed the tiny Museo Olonigli.
Museo Olonigli
No fixed hours • Donations welcome
As with other museums in the comarca, Museo Olonigli comprises a single room stuffed
with artefacts whose significance only becomes clear through the explanations (in
Spanish) of the owner-curator, Roy Cortéz Olonigli. He elaborates on traditional
culture drawing on his own woodcarvings, which depict Guna symbols and rituals.
aRRIVal anD DEPaRTuRE aGlIGanDI
By boat Agligandi is a 10min boat ride from the Achutupu Fri) to Cartí ($40), which can stop off at other islands
(Assudub) airstrip (see opposite). The community transport including Playón Chico ($10) and Isla Tigre ($20) en route.
association offers three boats a week (usually Mon, Wed &

PUBERTY RITUALS
although like many Guna customs, puberty rituals are becoming less common, if you
spend time in one of the more traditional village-islands you may be lucky enough to be
invited to attend one. Whereas adolescent boys pass into adulthood unheralded, a young girl
traditionally undergoes two important ceremonies. The first, innamudiggi, at her first
menstruation, prompts several days of confinement in a small ceremonial enclosure cloaked
in banana leaves (surba) within the house, where she is purified in herbal baths and finally
painted from top to toe in the indigo jagua dye before being allowed to join the festivities
outside. The second celebration, innasuid, involving the whole village, entails the young
woman being officially named and receiving a ceremonial haircut, a protracted affair signifying
that she is now available for marriage. Food is shared, pipes are passed and chicha abounds –
and the presence of cigarettes and seco in some communities reflects the changing times.
ironically the young woman at the heart of the festivities misses out on most of the fun,
remaining in seclusion until the actual hair-cutting. in an increasing fog of rituals, chants,
cocoa-bean incense, tobacco and alcohol, the celebrations, aimed partly at affirming the
coexistence of the material and spiritual worlds, continue for several days, until the chicha has
run out, by which time several people have usually passed out.

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