Page 288 - The Rough Guide to Panama (Travel Guide)

286 The Darién anD easTern Panama Around Golfo de SAn MiGuel
extraction and coconut plantations – is filling up with native hardwoods, though it’s
an hour’s hike to primary forest. The area also covers a stretch of charcoal beach, an
important expanse of mangroves, and mud and salt flats that attract an abundance of
resident and migratory seabirds.
Managed by the environmental organization ANCON, the reserve is not without its
critics, not least the Emberá, who feel the land should be theirs. Moreover, the area can
only be visited by splashing out on an all-inclusive four-day tour through ANCON
Expeditions (see p.276), which includes a day or overnight excursion to Mogué (see
p.284). Still, there’s no denying that this is a magical spot to soak up glorious sunsets,
aerial displays by diving pelicans and occasional sightings of bottle-nosed dolphins and
humpback whales. On land, mammals to look out for include the weasel-like tayra,
grey foxes and the extraordinary-looking capybara, the world’s largest rodent, which
resembles a giant guinea pig and weighs in at 55kg. Needless to say, the location
necessitates lashings of insect repellent to ward off the prolific uninvited guests.
arriVaL anD aCCOmmODaTiOn reserVa PUnTa PaTiÑO
By bus and boat Included in the ANCON Expeditions bathrooms and balconies. Perched on a bluff overlooking
package, you travel from Panama City to Puerto Quimba, the bay, the main lodge offers great views, best appreciated
and back, by minibus (4–5hr), then take a boat (1hr from a hammock on its wraparound balcony. Package
30min) to the reserve. includes full board, transport from and to Panama City, and
Punta Patiño Lodge Comfortable accommodation in bilingual naturalist guide. Additional $192 to overnight in
ten cabañas with twin beds, a/c, private cold-water Mogué. $3212
8
Garachiné
Set against the imposing backdrop of Cerro Sapo (Toad Hill), the small, neglected
fishing community of GARACHINÉ is only of interest to visitors who intend to hike the
overland route to Playa Muerto (see p.288), or are trying to reach Sambú via a bumpy
road which then loops back to the coastal Wounaan community of Taimatí. Unless you
arrive at high tide, you’ll be wading knee-deep across alluvial mud flats to the shore.
arriVaL anD inFOrmaTiOn GaraChiné
By boat Boats regularly depart from La Palma ($15) and the end of the main cement path.
Puerto Quimba ($20). SENAFRONT registration There is a police checkpoint
By road Getting a ride to Sambú by road is tricky, with (where you need to register) on the beach, where the
transport only going early in the morning and returning in boats pull up.
the afternoon ($4–5). Wait by the bus shelter (la caseta) at
aCCOmmODaTiOn anD eaTinG
There’s little to tempt the palate in Garachiné and the few fondas that exist have irregular hours; it’s usually a case of
looking around to see what’s open.

AJ’s Hospedaje C Principal T6501 3234 or T6506 2097. rooms, offering ample space, gleaming tiled floors and
Behind the hardware store are five surprisingly nice, simple bathrooms and comfortable beds, plus a/c and cable TV. $25

Río Sambú and the Comarca Emberá-Wounaan
Portal to the twelve communities of the Distrito Sambú of the Comarca Emberá-Wounaan,
12km up the serpentine Río Sambú, the twin settlements of Sambú and Puerto Indio are
generally only reached by river at high tide. The boat trip, sweeping round the river’s
tortuous bends, causing flocks of white ibis to fly off in unison, is highly atmospheric.
As the Río Sambú’s waters swell during the rainy season, piraguas can penetrate as far
upstream as the tiny village of Pavarandó; more easily accessible downriver is the fairly
dispersed community of La Chunga, which lies a few minutes’ paddle up a quiet tributary.

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