Page 82 - The Rough Guide to Panama (Travel Guide)

80 Panama City EATING
1 ($6–8) and is a popular spot for afternoon coffee and cake. ★ Mähalō Av “A” at C 5 T399 3432, Wmahalopanama
Tues–Sun 9am–10pm. .com; map p.56. This delightful, trendy courtyard café is
★ Calicanto C José de Obaldía T390 3385, the perfect spot to linger over Sun brunch, chat over a glass
Wfacebook.com/calicantopty; map p.56. The corner- of wine and eat healthily; quinoa, beetroot and avocado
café appearance of this small, unassuming Italian feature strongly in burgers, exotic salads, dips, soups and
restaurant belies the quality of its cuisine – and its sandwiches ($8–12). Board games, pilates, yoga, and live
espresso. The usual pastas and pizzas are joined by arancini, music on Thurs & Sat evenings. Daily 8.30am–10.30pm.
home-made bread and fresh salads. But the pièce de ★ René Café Plaza Catedral at C 7 T262 3487,
résistance is their signature dish – a plateful of stuffed Wfacebook.com/renecafepty; map p.56. An intimate
pyramidal pizza parcels spread over a sumptuous salad place, with Provençal-style ambience and an open-plan
topped with a huge blob of home-made burrata ($27). It’s kitchen turning out international and Panamanian fusion
enough for two, but leave room for the tiramisu. Mains cuisine. There’s an excellent-value three-course lunchtime
from $11. Mon & Wed–Sun noon–9pm. set menu ($11); in the evening $27 gets you six starters/
Casa Sucre Coffee House Av “B” and C 8 T393 6130, tapas, a substantial main course and dessert. Drinks are
Wcasasucrecoffeehouse.com; map p.56. Laidback, arty moderately priced (small bottle of wine only $5; beer $3).
café decked out with eclectic antiques and a similarly Mon–Sat 10am–3pm & 6–10pm.
eclectic spread of coffee-table books. They serve gourmet Super Gourmet Av “A” at C 6 T212 3487, Wsuper
coffees, deli sandwiches, all-day breakfasts and the gourmetcascoviejo.com; map p.56. Upmarket café
signature dish, a filling soup served in a bread bowl ($9). serving delicious deli sandwiches and excellent light
Free wi-fi. Mon–Thurs 7.30am–8pm, Fri & Sat lunches ($7–10). Set yourself up for the day with a full
7.30am–10pm, Sun 8am–7pm. breakfast (from around $7). Free wi-fi. Mon–Sat
Donde José Av Central and C 11 T262 1682, 8am–5pm, Sun 10am–4pm.
Wdondejose.com; map p.56. The hottest table in town
is a unique dining experience choreographed by Cordon CALIDONIA AND LA EXPOSICIÓN
Bleu-trained owner-chef José Olmedo Carles. He Reflecting their working-class populations, most dining
personally takes the sixteen diners through a multicourse options in these neighbourhoods are inexpensive and
gourmet tasting menu ($70), often using lesser-known particularly busy at lunchtimes, serving up traditional
Panamanian ingredients, such as the jobo fruit, toro or Panamanian dishes.
peach-palm, in innovative ways. An open kitchen backed Café Boulevard Balboa Av Balboa at C 31 Este T225
by an angled mirror allows you to watch the chefs at work. 0914; map pp.62–63. An a/c oasis of civilization in the
Book well in advance and be on time. Tues–Sat, sittings dust, noise and endless construction work outside, lively
7pm & 9.30pm. with a smart lunchtime business crowd. Specializing in
The Fish Market Av Central at C 10 T6721 6445, toasted sandwiches ($6–9), the menu also includes more
Wfacebook.com/Fish.Market.Panama; map p.56. filling Panamanian dishes and a good-value three-course
Bohemian venue offering a changing menu of high-quality menú del día for around $8. Mon–Sat 6.30am–1am.
gourmet seafood served in plastic bowls out of a trailer Mercado Público Av “B” and Av Balboa; map pp.62–63.
truck for around $10–13. Enjoy your meal in an open-air A dozen fondas serving heaps of tasty hot food – noodles or
courtyard, accompanied by occasional live music at rice with fried vegetables and strips of meat or chicken – for
weekends. Tues–Sat 6–11.30pm. less than $4, with communal seating. Mon–Sat 4am–3pm.
Fonda León Av “A” at C 5; map p.56. Squeezed between ★ Restaurante de Mariscos Av Balboa, above the
high-end establishments, this cafeteria-style restaurant Mercado de Mariscos; map pp.62–63. The catch couldn’t
has been feeding the average Panamanian for more than be any fresher, landing straight from the boat onto your
thirty years. True it’s heavy on fried food and carbohydrates, plate. Crab, conch, octopus, lobster, langoustines, shrimp,
but you can sometimes find fresh veg, and $4 will get you a snapper, dorado – it’s all there, and can be accompanied
full plate of rice, beans, potato salad and chicken stew. with coconut rice, fried yuca or patacones; just don’t expect
Daily 7am–7pm. too many vegetables (mains from $9). Cheaper food is
★ Granclement Av Central at C 4 T223 6277, available downstairs, around the back, at the row of
Wgranclement.com; map p.56. A fabulous indulgence cevicherías. Daily 11am–6pm.
after tramping the streets of Casco Viejo, this French-style
artisanal ice-cream parlour offers unusual flavours – basil, BELLA VISTA, EL CANGREJO & MARBELLA
lavender, Earl Grey – as well as chocolate every which way From the converted colonial mansions of Bella Vista to the
and an array of mouthwatering sorbets, though at a price neon lights of El Cangrejo, this area offers by far the
($2.50 for a large scoop). Mon–Thurs 11.30am–8pm, Fri greatest variety of dining and drinking venues, mainly at
& Sat 11.30am–9.30pm, Sun noon–8pm. the mid to high end of the price scale.

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