Page 99 - The Rough Guide to Panama (Travel Guide)

The Panama Canal The Panama Canal and CenTral isThmus 97
million in gold before the completion of the Union Pacific Railroad across the US in
1869 made it obsolete, forcing it into bankruptcy. Following a short revival during the
Canal’s construction, the railway fell into disrepair until 1998 when the government
agreed to privatize it. Though the railway company predominantly ferries freight to and
from the Atlantic and Pacific container ports, it offers a commuter passenger service to
Colón that is very popular with tourists. A supremely comfortable way to enjoy the
Canal, it serves up old-world elegance in wood-panelled, carpeted carriages with large
windows. In fine weather, make sure you also get out onto the open viewing deck.
2
Miraflores Locks and around
A mere fifteen minutes from downtown Panama City, along Avenida Omar Torrijos,
the MIRAFLORES LOCKS (Esclusas de Miraflores) are home to the four-storey Centro de
Visitantes de Miraflores, which provides a prime location for observing the Canal in
action. Marking the Pacific entrance to the waterway, the locks raise or lower vessels
16.5m between sea level and the artificial Lago Miraflores in two stages, a process best
appreciated from the visitor centre’s observation deck.
Southwest of Miraflores, action in the new three-chambered Cocolí Locks can be
enjoyed from a small concrete mirador along the road that skirts the western flank of
the new channel, leading to the Puente Centenario (see p.98), while just over 3km
beyond Miraflores lie the smaller Pedro Miguel Locks. These are closed to the public,
but if you park in the small layby, you can peer through the chainlink fence and watch
the ships manoeuvring, saving yourself the $15 Miraflores entry fee in the process.
Centro de Visitantes Miraflores
Daily 9am–5pm (4.15pm last entry), including holidays • Museum and viewing decks $15 • T276 8617, Wpancanal.com • Take any
Gamboa or Paraíso bus from Panama City’s Albrook terminal (see box, p.74) to the Miraflores stop; a taxi costs $8–10
The Centro de Visitantes Miraflores houses an informative introductory museum on the
Canal’s history and workings as well as a three-tier observation deck just metres from
the locks. Optimum viewing times for vessels transiting are before 11am, when ships are
usually entering the Canal from the Pacific, and after 3pm, when they are exiting. It’s
advisable to get there early in high season as the viewing platforms can get very crowded.
The museum serves to promote the Autoridad del Canal de Panamá (ACP) –
particularly though the 3D film (shown in Spanish and English at different times) – as
much as to inform you about the Canal. Both the French and US construction efforts
are squeezed into the ground-floor exhibition – for more in-depth coverage, head to the
Canal museum in Casco Viejo (see p.57). Against a vast montage of historical photos
and a soundtrack of blasting dynamite, the bare bones of the enterprise are covered
through impressive scale models and bilingual texts. Sound effects continue on the first
floor as the focus shifts to the biodiversity of the Canal’s catchment area, while on the
floor above, the spotlight turns to engineering. Highlights include a virtual high-speed
transit of the Canal, complete with illuminated 3D topographic map, and the chance to
experience life inside a lock culvert (thankfully without the water). The centre also
houses a couple of thinly stocked cafés, a restaurant (see below) and a gift shop.
aCCOmmOdaTiOn and eaTinG miraFlOres
Atlantic & Pacific Co Restaurant Centro de Visitantes Holiday Inn Ciudad de Saber (City of Knowledge),
Miraflores T232 3120, Watlanticpacificrestaurant.com. Clayton T317 4000, Wihg.com/holidayinn. Bang
High-quality organic food in special surroundings. The opposite the Miraflores Locks; from upper-floor rooms you
superior buffet spread ($45; until 4pm) upgrades to a can watch the action night and day. The well-appointed,
champagne brunch on Sun ($51); in the evening (Mon–Sat) spacious rooms have giant plasma-screen TVs, crisp white
it’s à la carte (mains from $25). Panamanian flavours are given sheets, sparkling bathrooms and the usual business
a twist – grilled corvina in pineapple skin with green plantain, amenities. But you are a long way from the city, so you’ll
perhaps. Mon–Sat 11.30am–11pm, Sun 11.30am–5pm. need to budget for taxi fares (around $6). $80

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