Page 103 - The Rough Guide to Panama (Travel Guide)

Gamboa The Panama Canal and CenTral isThmus 101
Gamboa
Surrounded by the luxuriant vegetation of Parque Nacional Soberanía and bordered by
the impressive Río Chagres and Lago Gatún, into which the river spills, the sleepy former
Canal Zone town of GAMBOA is the portal to many attractions on and off the water,
most of which are organized as day-trips from Panama City. For nature lovers and birding
enthusiasts in particular, Gamboa provides access to the legendary Camino del Oleoducto
and the adjacent Rainforest Discovery Centre (see opposite). It is also the departure point
for excursions to the scientific research station on Isla Barro Colorado (see p.102), for 2
boats offering Pacific-bound partial Canal transits (see box, p.95), fishing trips or wildlife
viewing on Lago Gatún (see p.102), and for cultural excursions to indigenous Emberá
communities upriver (see box, p.104). The town is easily accessed by bus and though
some activities need organizing in advance, others can be arranged on the spot.
Beyond the activities hosed by the Gamboa Rainforest Resort (see p.101), there’s little
to do in town but soak up the tranquil yesteryear feel, taking in the attractive (and
often empty) Canal-era architecture, indulging in a little birdwatching around the
wooded fringes or strolling along the Chagres, looking out for iguanas and turtles
sunning themselves along the riverbanks and marvelling at the constant procession of
container ships.

Brief history
Isolated Gamboa – its only road access via an old single-track bridge shared with the
Panama Railroad – was built in 1911 as a settlement for around seven hundred “silver
roll” employees and families (see p.297), its population did not increase significantly
until the Canal’s dredging division relocated here from Paraíso in 1936. By 1942,
Gamboa’s residents exceeded 3800, much more than the current population, and the
community boasted a cinema and golf course. But once the Panama Canal Authority
started to transfer operations to Panama City following the 1977 treaties, services
began to close and the town dwindled, although the golf course has recently been
upgraded (Wsummitgolfpanama.com).
arriVal and inFOrmaTiOn GamBOa
By bus Gamboa is a 50min bus ride from Panama City. Buses Rainforest Resort, where it turns, taking the same route back.
(16 daily: Mon–Fri 5am–11.15pm, Sat & Sun 6am–11.15pm; Catch it back to Panama City outside the entrance to the
last bus back to Panama City 9pm) depart from the very far dredging division, at the park corner.
end of the Albrook terminal (by Niko’s Café). After crossing the By taxi A taxi from Panama City costs around $35 (30min).
bridge into Gamboa, the bus circles the tree-filled park, ATMs There are two ATMs in Gamboa, one by the entrance
where you alight for the Sendero del Oleoducto or Rainforest to the Canal dredging division by the park, the other at the
Discovery Centre, before it heads up towards the Gamboa Gamboa Rainforest Resort.
aCCOmmOdaTiOn and eaTinG
During the week, inexpensive lunches are available from the fondas opposite the Canal’s dredging division. Otherwise
there is a hard-to-locate – ask around – small shop at the back of a set of houses on the way to the Sendero del Oleoducto.
You could also bring a picnic.
Canopy B&B 114a Jadwin Ave T883 5929, Wcanopy eat, though you’ll be paying tourist prices (around $30 for a
tower.com. This beautifully restored two-storey Canal- full lunch) and the quality of food and service is variable. A
era house provides five tasteful, airy rooms with a/c, fan lunch buffet is available at the main Corotú restaurant,
and private bathrooms. Common areas are comfortable, while snacks and cocktails are served at the Monkey Bar
and they offer reductions on day-passes to the Canopy terrace, a breezy spot with fabulous views across the
Tower (see opposite). A set dinner can be pre-ordered for Chagres. The riverside Los Lagartos, whose specialities
$24/person. $154 include fish and ribs, offers splendid opportunities for
Gamboa Rainforest Resort T314 5000, Wgamboa wildlife viewing. Corotú: daily 6.30am–10.30pm;
resort.com. This luxury hotel is the best bet for a bite to Monkey Bar: Aug–Oct Mon–Fri 11am–7pm, Nov–July

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