Page 121 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Italian Riviera
P. 121

THE  RIVIER A  DI  LE V ANTE      119


       skiing. In summer, visitors can             is now Via Nuova Italia.
       enjoy the simple pleasure of                Historic monuments
       strolling around the pretty                 include the church of
       historic centre, with its winding           Santo Stefano, dating
       alleys and small squares.                   from the 10th century,
         Close to the village are the              but rebuilt in 1653, when
       isolated, imposing ruins of                 a Baroque staircase and
       Castello Malaspina, built by                asymmetrical bell towers
       the local nobles in the 12th                were added; the imposing
       century, and subsequently                   17th-century Palazzo
       passed to the Fieschi and                   Franzone, now the town
       Doria families.                             hall; and the church
         The Val d’Aveto was formed                of Santa Giulia di
       by the Aveto torrent, which                 Centaura (1654), reached
       carves out an upland plain                  along a scenic road from
       southwest of the town, where                Viale Mazzini and with
       pastures are enclosed by                    panoramic views along
       mountains covered in forests    Impressive Basilica di San Salvatore dei    the coast.
       of silver fir, Norway spruce, and   Fieschi, Lavagna
       beech and ash trees. Much of            Environs
       this is now part of the Parco   0 Lavagna   A short drive or 30 minutes’
       Naturale Regionale dell’Aveto.  Genoa. Road Map E4. * 12,900. V   walk inland from Lavagna lies
         From Santo Stefano, visitors   n Piazza della Libertà 48/A, 0185 395   the village of San Salvatore
       can reach Monte Aiona, the   070. _ Torta dei Fieschi (7–14 Aug).   di Cogorno, from where visitors
       tallest peak in the park at 1,700   ∑ turismoinliguria.it  can reach the Basilica di
       m (5,576 ft), along trails that         San Salvatore dei Fieschi,
       reveal the beauty of this wild,   The town of Lavagna lies across   one of the most important
       unspoiled area. Note that the   the Entella from Chiavari, to   Romanesque-Gothic
       western slopes form part of    which it is linked by several   monuments in Liguria. It was
       the Riserva Naturale delle    bridges, including the fine   commissioned in 1245 by
       Agoraie and are open    medieval Ponte della Maddalena.  Ottobono Fieschi, the future
       only to those doing      In the Middle Ages this   Pope Adrian V and nephew
       scientific research.  coastal town was a stronghold   of Pope Innocent IV (another
         Another area of       of the local Fieschi   Fieschi), who made it a basilica
       interest is the great    counts. Historically,    in 1252. The building lies in a
       forest of Le Lame, where   its prosperity has    particularly lovely setting, on
       there are marshes and    been due largely to   the top of a hill covered in olive
       small lakes of glacial   the local slate quarries.   groves, and surrounded by
       origin. The icy cold     Nowadays, the town   ancient buildings, among
       water has perfectly       depends more on its   them the ruined 13th-century
       preserved some   Logo of the Parco   beach and marina,   Palazzo dei Conti Fieschi.
       2,500-year-old fir   Naturale dell’Aveto  which has space for     The church is dominated by
       trunks, which can be seen lying   more than 1,500 yachts. The   a powerful square tower which
       on the bottom of Lago degli   town’s medieval heart developed   rises over the crossing. It has
       Abeti.              inland from the sea, from what    cornices of blind arches and
                                               four-mullioned windows, and
        The Slate Road                         is crowned with a tall spire
                                               with four pinnacles. The upper
             For information on the Via dell’Ardesia: GAL Fontanabuona e   façade features alternating
               Sviluppo, Via Chiapparino 26, Cicagna. Tel 0185 971 091.   bands of marble and slate,
                ∑ fontanabuona.com             and a large rose window. The
                                               marble and slate striped bands
                 From the black stripes of San Salvatore dei
                 Fieschi to the roofs of numerous houses, slate is a   are repeated inside the rather
                  characteristic element of many buildings in the   austere interior, and slate is
                  Riviera di Levante. It is still quarried in the hinterland   used elsewhere, too, in the
                  behind Chiavari (not far, in fact, from the town of   form of tiles in the transept
                  Lavagna, the Italian for blackboard). To visit the   and presbytery.
                 quarries, take the SS225 road from Chiavari to the
                 Fontanabuona valley. There are six itineraries to   R Basilica di San Salvatore
                 follow as part of the so-called Via dell’Ardesia (“slate   dei Fieschi
                 road”). There is a slate quarry at Isolana di Orero, and   Piazza Innocenzo IV, San Salvatore
          Sculpture in   there is also a slate museum at nearby Cicagna,    di Cogorno. Tel 0185 380245.
           slate  20 km (12 miles) from Lavagna.  Open 8am–noon, 1:30–6pm daily
                                               (7pm in summer).




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