Page 8 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Italian Riviera

6  HOW T O USE THIS GUIDE
HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE

The detailed information and tips given in Riviera di Levante and the Riviera
this guide will help you to get the most out of di Ponente, respectively, using maps,
your visit to the Italian Riviera. Introducing the photographs and illustrations. Restaurant
Italian Riviera maps the region of Liguria and and hotel recommendations can be found
sets it in its historical and cultural context. in the section Travellers’ Needs, together
The section Genoa Area by Area describes the with information about shopping, outdoor
main sights in the regional capital. The Italian activities and entertainment. The Survival
Riviera Area by Area describes the sights and Guide has tips on everything from transport
resorts east and west of Genoa along the to making a telephone call.

Genoa Area by Area
Further Afield describes areas Detailed information for
The centre of Genoa has been outside the city centre. All each sight is presented in
divided into two sightseeing the sights are numbered and numerical order, making it
areas, each with its own chapter. plotted on an Area Map. easy to locate.

GENO A AREA B Y AREA  53
All pages relating IL CENTRO STORICO
to Genoa have The old heart of the city is grouped around in Piazza San Matteo and Palazzo Spinola on
the Porto Antico and is made up of a hilly
the other. The relationship between the old
red thumb tabs. network of small piazzas, alleys and staircases. town and the port has been a centuries-old
It is the largest medieval centre in Europe
problem, largely due to the lack of integration
and is exceptionally well preserved, despite
between the two, which was further compli-
persistent neglect in some parts. The area is cated in the 20th century by the building of
home to the cathedral of San Lorenzo and a flyover. A chance to improve the area and A locator map
the Palazzo Ducale, the seat of power for to re-establish links with the seafront was
centuries. Both public and private wealth taken in the 1990s: old buildings, such as the
has left its mark in the old town: Palazzo Teatro Carlo Felice, were restored, and new shows where you
San Giorgio and the Loggia dei Mercanti projects, including Renzo Piano’s port
on the one hand, the Doria family mansions buildings, are in relation to
Sights at a Glance lists the Sights at a Glance Theatres other areas of the
Historic Buildings
chapter’s sights by category: 0 Porta Soprana (or di Sant’Andrea) 6 Teatro Carlo Felice city centre.
q Casa di Colombo
Churches
o Loggia dei Mercanti
1 San Lorenzo pp56–7
Churches, Museums and See Street Finder, maps 5 & 6 Historic Streets and Piazzas 3 Il Gesù (or Sant’Ambrogio)
7 Santo Stefano
4 Piazza De Ferrari
9 Basilica di Santa Maria Assunta
t Porto Antico pp64–5
Galleries, Historic Buildings, i Piazza Banchi e San Donato
in Carignano
s Piazza San Matteo
Museums and Galleries
r Santa Maria di Castello
a Santa Maria delle Vigne
Streets and Piazzas. 0 metres 0 yards 400 400 5 Accademia Ligustica di Belle Arti Palazzi
8 Museo Civico di Storia Naturale
2 Palazzo Ducale
Giacomo Doria
w Museo di Sant’Agostino u Palazzo San Giorgio
y Aquarium pp66–7
p Palazzo Spinola di Pellicceria
Area Map
Darsena
72  GENO A AREA B Y AREA LE STR ADE NUOVE  73
Calata VIA A. GRAMSCI 1All the sights
Salumi
Ponte Calvi
Street-by-Street: Around Via Garibaldi Ponte Calata Rotonda V. DELLA MADDALENA
PIAZZA
Spinola San Giorgio LEPRE are numbered
When Via Garibaldi was laid out in the mid-16th century, Ponte STR AD A SOP RAE L EVATA ALDO M O R O V. SOZIGLIA
it was the first of the “new streets”, and was known as La Embriaco VIC. D. CASANA
Strada Nuova. The mansions lining the street are wonderfully PIAZZETTA DEL MOLO PORTA PIAZZA SCUOLE DELLE and located on
preserved, with sumptuous interiors, and often contain VIA V. TURATI VIA SAN LORENZO MATTEOTTI VIA B. BOSCO
exceptional decoration or fine art collections – the fruits of VICO MALATTI DEL MOLO PIAZZA De Ferrari V. VERNAZZA
V. CHIABRERA
shrewd collecting. Among the palazzi open to the public are PIAZZA VIA SAN BERNARDO VIA
Palazzo Doria-Tursi (the largest in the street), which still serves Locator Map CAVOUR DANTE V. CECCARDI VIA XX SETTEMBRE a map.
as the town hall, and Palazzo Bianco and Palazzo Rosso, which PIAZZA DANTE
See Street Finder, maps 2, 5 & 6
house the Musei di Strada Nuova, the city’s largest art gallery. V. DI MASCHERONA GALLERIA V. DEGLI ARCHI VIA I. FRUGONI
Not far away is the first cathedral of Genoa, and the church of 4 Palazzo Doria Tursi Sarzano PASSO DEL COLLE C. COLOMBO CORSO PODESTÀ V. MARAGLIANO V. D. FIASELLA VIA CESAREA GRANELLO V. BRIGATA LIGURIA
Three times the length of the
San Siro – richly decorated in the 16th and 17th centuries. other mansions in via Garibaldi, CORSO M. QUADRIO VIA G. D'ANNUNZIO SALITA S. LEONARDO V.
Beyond Piazza Fontane Marose, Santissima Annunziata del this 16th-century palazzo has 3 Via Garibaldi V. DELLA MARINA V. EUGENIA RAVASCO VIA FIESCHI V. IPPOLITO D'ASTE
the attractive square at one end Vastato, Palazzo Reale, Palazzo an exquisite courtyard, with a Now pedestrianized, this PIAZZA VIA G. AESSI V. G. MACAGGI
street transports visitors
of Via Garibaldi, is the Edoardo Doria Pamphilj 5 . Palazzo Rosso to an arcaded loggia. back to the golden age CARIGNANO
double staircase leading up
Chiossone museum (see treasures such as portraits by of the Genoese aristocracy SALITA SASSI
This gallery here is home to
p74), which houses a rare Van Dyck and Genoese works in the 16th and 17th
The iconic fountain in front of Banca Carige in Piazza De Ferrari
collection of oriental art from the 16th to the centuries. The monumental For map symbols see back flap
façades loom high above
that was assembled in the 18th centuries. visitors walking beneath.
19th century.
Palazzo del Podestà
V I A S A N S I R O example of Genoese
façade is a delightful
0 metres 50 was begun in 1563. The
0 yards 50 V I A C A I R O L I Mannerism.
Palazzo Doria has a Street-by-Street Map
lovely Baroque façade Key
PIA ZZ A dating from 1563–67.
MERIDIANA Suggested route 2This gives a bird’s-eye view of the
heart of each sightseeing area.
V I A G A R I B A L D I
V I C O A N G E L I
7 San Siro V I A D E L L A M A D D A L E N A
PIA ZZ A
Genoa’s ancient cathedral probably dates V I A S A L V A G H I FONT ANE
from the 4th century. There are no traces M AROSE
of its origins, however, due to a fire that
destroyed it in the late 16th century. The
reconstruction was undertaken by the 76  GENO A AREA B Y AREA P ALAZZ O ROSSO  77
Theatine Order (see p80), which turned it PIA ZZ A D .
FERRO
into a temple, resplendent with marble
inlay and frescoes. Museo
5 Palazzo Rosso Chiossone VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
6 . Palazzo Bianco
The gallery in this house displays 13th– This palazzo, which owes its name to the reddish colour of its Ceiling frescoes by Practical Information
Via Garibaldi 18. Map 5 C2. Tel 010
18th-century European paintings. The exterior (rosso means red), is the last of the sumptuous mansions Gregorio De Ferrari 557 49 72. ∑ museidigenova.it
collection includes a large number of on Via Garibaldi, and one of the main noble residences in Genoa.
Genoese works, as well as some important Palazzo Carrega Cataldi in Room 28 were Open Apr–Oct: 9am–6pm Tue,
the 1670s, then at the height of its power. The two main floors
that fell in 1942.
Spanish, French and Flemish paintings, such now houses the Chamber It was built by Pierantonio Corradi for the Brignole-Sale family in destroyed by bombs 9am–7pm Wed, Thu & Sat, 9am–
9pm Fri, 9:30am–7:30pm Sun;
as Venus and Mars by Rubens, shown here. of Commerce. 32 Nov–Mar: 9am–6:30pm Tue–Fri,
For hotels and restaurants in this area see p180 and pp189–90 were intended for the art collector brothers Gio Francesco and 9:30am–6:30pm Sat & Sun.
Ridolfo, and their heirs. When the Duchess di Galliera, Maria
& =
Brignole-Sale De Ferrari, gave the palace to the city in 1874 31
she included its rich art collection. Palazzo Rosso was damaged 33
during World War II, but Franco Albini’s restoration in the 1950s 30 The Cook by Bernardo Strozzi
successfully recaptured the majesty of the original building. 29 Local artist Strozzi (1581–1644)
Stars indicate the sights Inside, the frescoes and gilt and stucco work are as much to 27 34 displays great virtuosity with his
brushwork in this canvas, inspired
be admired as the art. See pp78–9 for a detailed description
by Flemish models and the
of the exhibits.
that no visitor should miss. . Portraits by 28 naturalism of Caravaggio (Room 7).
Van Dyck
Fine portraits of the 35
Brignole-Sale family by
Van Dyck in Room 29
include this picture of 36 Rooms 38–43
Apartments of Gio.
Anton Giulio, which
pictures the 22-year- 37 7 Francesco Il
A suggested route for a walk covers sovereigns – a superb Brignole-Sale
old frozen in a pose
hitherto reserved for
the more interesting streets in affirmation of his 6 8
social status.
4
the area. 5 Alcova
This enchanting 18th-century room is
1 9 decorated with frescoes enclosed by
lavish amounts of gilt and stuccowork. It is
furnished with a large bridal bed (c.1780)
3 16 and features pastel portraits of the
Brignole-Sale family.
Gallery Guide
Genoa’s Major Sights 15 10 between 33 rooms on the two main
The main artworks are distributed
floors (an additional 19 rooms are on
3Museums and galleries have Entrance 2 11 the mezzanine and third floor). On the
first floor are works by Guido Reni and
Guercino, as well as works by Genoese
14 artists such as Bernardo Strozzi. On
the second floor, the magnificently
colour-coded floor plans to . Allegory of Spring by Key Italian and European 12 decorated rooms are a big attraction,
particularly the Sale delle Stagioni,
Gregorio De Ferrari
along with the portraits of Brignole-
art, XV–XVII centuries
help you to locate the most When Gregorio De Ferrari Portrait of a Young Man Genoese art, 13 Sale by Anthony Van Dyck. The gallery
painted this allegory (1686–7)
XVI–XVIII centuries
also has the finest library of art history
in the Sale delle Stagioni, he
used the scene in which by Albrecht Dürer Roman art, XVII century in Liguria, as well as an education
centre that organizes activities for
interesting exhibits. masterpiece of Baroque found in Room 13. It was produced Sale delle Stagioni children. The 2004 renovations restored
Venus seduces Mars. This
Flemish art, XVI century
This work, dated 1506, can be
the third-floor rooms to their former
“illusionism” was the fruit of
during Dürer’s second trip to Italy. In
the collaboration between abandoning the traditional sideways Rooms with allegories of the glory as the apartment of the director
human condition
De Ferrari and artists skilled in profile, the subject is brought into more of the civic museums, Caterina
perspective and stuccowork. direct contact with the onlooker. Non-exhibition space Marcenaro (1906–76).
For hotels and restaurants in this area see p180 and pp189–90
006-007_EW_Italian_Riviera.indd 6 21/10/16 12:53 pm