Page 9 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Italian Riviera

HOW T O USE THIS GUIDE  7
THE IT ALIAN RIVIER A AREA B Y AREA  109
THE RIVIERA DI
Introduction LEVANTE The Italian Riviera Area by Area
1The landscape, history Thoughts turn, inevitably, when considering this The Italian Riviera has been divided
part of the world, to the great poets who have lauded
it, including the romantic poets Percy Bysshe
Shelley and Lord Byron; there is even a gulf named
and character of each in their honour. These poets and other writers have celebrated the into two areas, each of which has a
enchantment of the Riviera di Levante, the gentleness of the climate,
the colourful flowers and the beautiful coves.
region is described This stunningly beautiful area genuinely on the beaches and the roads). But what separate chapter. The most interesting
may seem like high-season chaos to some,
deserves their praise. The often beautifully
here, showing how positioned coastal resorts and villages are is liveliness and fun to others. Largely in sights to visit are highlighted
truly delightful, the result of the combined response to the effects of increased develop-
ment, including pollution and erosion, nature
efforts of man and nature. The contrast
the area has between the sea and the steep mountains reserves, national parks and other protected
immediately behind adds to the fascination, areas have been founded both along the
which only increases as you head inland, coast (such as the Cinque Terre) and on a Regional Map.
developed over the into the jagged valleys and ravines where inland, and are a vital contribution to the
villages cling to hilltops.
conservation of this precious landscape.
The Riviera di Levante is home to a The way of life in the interior is a world
centuries and what number of chic resorts – including away from the bustling scene on the
Portofino, Santa Margherita Ligure and
coast. Steep valleys, formed by the rivers
Rapallo – once the haunt of European, Magra, Vara and Aveto, cut deep into
it offers to the and particularly English aristocrats, but the landscape and are carpeted with
dense forest. There is a serious problem
now frequented mainly by Italians.
Tourism has thrived in this area since the
of population decline in some areas (a
visitor today. 1800s, though this formidable success has problem common to all parts of the Italian
meant the arrival of mass tourism and, with
Apennines), but village communities do
it, inevitably, over- development in some
survive in the hinterland, dependent
areas and periods of overcrowding (both mostly on agriculture.
Each area can be
quickly identified
by its colour coding.
136  THE IT ALIAN RIVIER A AREA B Y AREA THE RIVIER A DI PONENTE  137
Exploring the Riviera di Ponente Green shutters and flower-filled balconies, a feature of Ligurian houses Regional Map
The two provincial capitals on the Riviera di Ponente are Boats in the harbour of the pretty medieval village of Camogli
Savona and Imperia. San Remo, with its grand Art Nouveau
architecture, is the main holiday resort. New developments 2This shows the road
have spoiled the coast closest to Genoa, but there are many
interesting places to visit elsewhere along the coast: these Alessandria
range from Noli, with its church of San Paragorio, one of the Rossiglione
key monuments of Ligurian Romanesque, and Albenga, Alba network and gives an
with its well-preserved historic centre and its Early Christian Acqui Terme
baptistry, to the splendid English gardens at Hanbury Campo Ligure
Botanical Gardens, close to the French border, and the Urbe illustrated overview of
nearby caves at Balzi Rossi, a fascinating prehistoric site. In Sassello
the hinterland, the delightful medieval village of Dolceacqua
is especially worth a visit, as is Triora, famous for a witch Dego Pontinvrea PA RCO N AT U R A L E the whole region. All the
trial held here at the end of the 16th century. The luxuriant Exotic plants in the interesting Hanbury Turin DEL BE I G UA
vegetation and mild climate make this part of the Ligurian Botanical Gardens Cairo Monte Beigua Genoa
1300m
coast a pleasure to explore. Montenotte Voltri
Millesimo L i g u r e Arenzano Pegli sights are numbered and
Carcare Cogoleto
ALBISOLA
Sights at a Glance SUPERIORE VARAZZE
1 Varazze y Andora k Ventimiglia Altare Celle Ligure there are also useful tips on
2 Parco Naturale u Cervo l Balzi Rossi Bormida ALBISSOLA MARINA
del Beigua i Pieve di Teco z Hanbury Botanical Gardens
3 Albisola Superiore o Imperia (pp158–61) (pp174–5) Bormida SAVONA Key getting around the area.
4 Albissola Marina p Dolcedo Calizzano Vado Ligure Motorway
5 Savona (pp140–43) a Triora A p p e n n i n o Quiliano Major road
6 Bergeggi s Taggia Bardineto BERGEGGI Minor road
7 Spotorno d Tour of the Armea and Crosia SPOTORNO Main railway
8 Noli Valleys (pp164–5) Monte BORGIO NOLI International border
9 Finale Ligure f San Remo Carmo 1389m VEREZZI
0 Borgio Verezzi g Pigna Ponte de Giustenice FINALE LIGURE Varigotti Regional border
q Pietra Ligure h Dolceacqua (pp170–71) Nava Erli PIETRA LIGURE Summit
w Loano j Bordighera GROTTE DI
e Grotte di Toirano Nava TOIRANO LOANO
(pp150–51) Monesi Borghetto
r Albenga (pp152–5) Realdo Borghetto Santo Spirito
d’Arroscia
t Alassio PIEVE DI TECO Villanova
d’Albenga
Arroscia Visitors’ Checklist boxes provide
Rezzo ALBENGA
TRIORA
Testico all the practical information that you
Merula ALASSIO
Cuneo
PIGNA Monte Ceppo Chiusavecchia Laigueglia
1629m Pontedassio will need.
DOLCEDO Impero
Baiardo Monte Merlo ANDORA
Apricale 1014m Montalto CERVO
Airole Perinaldo Ceriana Ligure IMPERIA Diano Fishing boats on the beach at Noli
ARMEA AND
DOLCEACQUA TOUR OF THE TAGGIA Porto Oneglia Marina Getting Around
between Genoa and Ventimiglia), and the SS1, or Via Aurelia (once a Roman road), which
Nice Vallecrosia Alta CROSIA VALLEYS Santo Stefano Maurizio The main communication routes along the Riviera di Ponente are the A10 (the motorway
Seborga
BALZI SAN REMO Bussana runs parallel to the motorway at sea level, passing by all the main towns. The roads leading
ROSSI Vecchia into the interior are narrow and twisting, although they do pass through very beautiful
HANBURY VENTIMIGLIA
BOTANICAL BORDIGHERA countryside. The A6 (the motorway from Savona to Turin), gives access to Altare, Carcare
GARDENS intercity trains connect Genoa and Ventimiglia, with up to 15 trains a day. It is also possible
and other towns located inland from the Riviera delle Palme. Regional, inter-regional and
0 kilometres 10 114  THE IT ALIAN RIVIER A AREA B Y AREA THE RIVIER A DI LE V ANTE  115
0 miles 10 to get around using coaches, particularly if heading inland; the provincial coach companies
operate a good network of services.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp182–3 and pp194–7
For map symbols see back flap 4 Portofino Peninsula VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
This headland extends for around 3 km (2 miles) out to sea Practical Information
and separates the Paradiso and Tigullio gulfs. The southern n Via Roma 35, 0185 269 024.
Genoa. Road Map D4. * 590.
part, hot and dry, has high cliffs that enclose gorgeous inlets Abbey of San Fruttuoso: Tel 0185
hidden in the Mediterranean maquis; on the northern side, 772 703. Open Mar, Apr & Oct:
woods of chestnut trees dominate. The small area is 10am–3:45pm daily; May–Sep:
extraordinarily rich botanically, and its favourable position has Nov & Dec: 10am–3:45pm Tue–
10am–5:45pm daily; Jan, Feb,
drawn human settlements since antiquity: Portus Delphini (the Sun (opening timings vary
bay was, and still is, known for its large dolphin population) depending on the weather).
was an important settlement in the Roman era. Today, the Closed 25 Dec. &
∑ traghettiportofino.it
The top sights are given peninsula is dotted with impossibly picturesque hamlets and A splendid view of the rocky coast close Paraggi ∑ navigazionegolfodei
villages, including the world-famous port and celebrity mecca
In Paraggi, a short distance from Portofino, multicoloured houses are
poeti.net
of Portofino. There are also magnificent walks to be done, as
gathered around a small sandy cove, with terraces rising up the mountain
to Portofino
3two or more pages. Historic well as all kinds of maritime sports, Camogli behind. Nowadays, the once-flourishing trades of fishing and olive- Transport
V Santa Margherita Ligure.
pressing have given way to tourism. The views from here are beautiful.
including some great diving.
@ Santa Margherita Ligure to
Portofino. g boats around the
Golfo del Tigullio and to Cinque
buildings are dissected to (see p112) Terre (Apr–Sep); 0185 284 670.
Santa Margherita
reveal their interiors. San Fruttuoso Ligure (see p113)
Paraggi
Bullet numbers refer Cristo degli Abissi Portofino Key Boat Routes
This bronze statue by Guido
to each sight’s position on Galletti was lowered into the sea
at San Fruttuoso in 1954, a symbol
of the attachment of the Ligurian
the area map and its place people to the sea. Every year, on
the last Sunday in July, garlands of
flowers are given to the statue in
memory of those who have lost
in the chapter. their lives at sea. Divers pay
homage to the statue at all times
of the year.
. San Fruttuoso
KEY A symbol of the Italian heritage and
conservation organization FAI, to which it
1 Punta di Portofino can be has belonged since 1983, San Fruttuoso is a
126  THE IT ALIAN RIVIER A AREA B Y AREA reached on foot. Beyond the THE RIVIER A DI LE V ANTE  127 . Portofino
delightful village with houses grouped around
16th-century Fortezza di San Giorgio, a Benedictine abbey, built by the Doria family The town, with its lovely harbour and rows of coloured
known as “Castle Brown”, is the in the 1200s. It is dominated by the church’s houses facing the piazzetta, is best viewed from the
The old centre is dominated
position and by the mountain range, which rises to a
and mausoleum of the Doria family. San
del Capo statue.
fortified fishing village, with rows centuries BC), with a mosaic lighthouse and the Madonnina octagonal bell tower. Alongside is the cloister 0 kilometres 50 headland opposite. The cove is sheltered both by its
of brightly painted houses on pavement and a small museum, 2 Fortezza di San Giorgio Fruttuoso is accessible only by boat or on foot: 0 miles 50 height of 600m (1,970 ft) and forms a 3 km (2 mile)
by the Castello, the most
important example of military
the slope down to the harbour. known as the Antiquarium. it is 30 minutes by boat from Camogli, for long cliff behind the town. While small, the port
Behind is a maze of narrow example, or 75 minutes’ walk from Portofino. still has space for 300 mooring berths.
architecture in the region.
alleys and vaulted staircases, + Castello For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp181–2 and pp191–4 Colourful houses in the quaint village of Portofino on the Ligurian coast
Built by the Pisans in the 13th
populated by Portovenere’s Tel 0187 791 106. Open 10:30am– century to counter a Genoese
famous cats. 5:30pm daily. Closed during events & fort at Portovenere, it was taken
At the tip of the headland by Genoa shortly afterwards,
in winter. &
is the striped church of San P Antiquarium del Varignano and was enlarged in the 15th
Pietro, built in 1277 in honour Le Grazie. Tel 0187 790 307. century. It is still in a remarkably
of the patron saint of fishermen. Open on request. The island of Palmaria, the largest in the Ligurian archipelago good state, with its pentagonal
The church in the pretty medieval village It incorporates elements of a tower and massive walls.
of Campiglia 6th­century, early Christian church some buildings in Portovenere, Assunta; and Villa Marigola, There is an archaeological
and has a small Romanesque was quarried here, which has which has lovely gardens. museum inside.
u Campiglia loggia, open to the sea. partially disfigured the island. Below the castle is the lovely
Palmaria is popular among the
(and sandy) Baia di Maralunga,
Also worth visiting is San
La Spezia. Road Map F5. * 150. Lorenzo, a short walk up an locals, who visit for day trips, but s Lerici which is good for a swim.
V La Spezia. @ from La Spezia. alley from the harbour. This the island’s appeal cannot com­
n IAT Cinque Terre, 0187 770 900. La Spezia. Road Map F5. * 12,000. V
∑ campiglia.net and beautiful Romanesque church pete with that of the mainland. La Spezia. @ n Via Biaggini 6, 0187 + Castello and Museo
∑ tramontidicampiglia.it was built in the 12th century, The much smaller islands of 967 346. _ Festa di Sant’ Erasmo (Jul). Piazza San Giorgio. Tel 0187 969 042.
but reworked in the Gothic Tino and Tinetto lie in a military Open mid­Oct–mid­Mar: 10:30am–
This rural village, founded in and Renaissance eras. It has a zone. Access to Tino is allowed In the Middle Ages Lerici was a 12:30pm Tue–Fri; 10:30am–12:30pm, Detailed Information
the Middle Ages and occupying wonderfully rustic font inside. only on the 13th September, for major port, and enjoyed both 2:30–5:30pm Sat, Sun, public hols;
a precipitous position near the Further up the alley (it is a the Festa di San Venerio. There is commercial and strategic mid­Mar–Jun, Sep–mid­Oct:
coast only a short distance steep climb), visitors will reach a ruined 11th­century abbey, imp ortance. Today, it is a popular 10:30am–1pm, 2:30–6pm Tue–Sun;
from La Spezia, is fascinating the 16th­century castello. The church of San Pietro at Portovenere, built on the site of a chapel tourist town, but one that retains Jul–Aug: 10:30am–12:30pm, 4All the important towns
and magical. Built by the Genoese, this is a overlooking the sea where the hermit saint lived in a working community with a 6:30pm–midnight Tue–Sun.
Campiglia was built on an grandiose example of military solitude. The island lighthouse strong identity. Closed Mon. &
old mule road along the ridge architecture, and also offers o Palmaria, Tino guides ships into the gulf.
between Portovenere and fantastic views. It is linked to Tinetto is an inhospitable and other places to visit
Levanto, and it is still a great the town by a line of walls with and Tinetto rock, but the rich diversity of the
starting point for walks. The square towers. The remains of La Spezia. Road Map F5. g from sea bed make this a popular
most beautiful, and hardest, various medieval fortifications La Spezia or Portovenere for Isola diving area. The ruins of two
walk is along CAI (Italian Alpine are still visible around Palmaria, 0187 732 987. n IAT religious buildings on the island are described individually.
Club) path no. 11. This takes Portovenere. Portovenere, 0187 790 691. confirm the earliest known
visitors through the spectacular Le Grazie, along the winding Christian presence in the area
terrain of the Tramonti, a route north from Portovenere to Liguria’s only archipelago once (5th century). They are listed in order,
continuation of the Cinque Terre La Spezia, is another place of formed part of the headland
with terraces of vines, before a great beauty. Monte Muzzerone of Portovenere.
steep flight of 2,000 steps nearby is hugely popular among The largest island, Isola p La Spezia
descends down as far as the free­climbers. The village itself Palmaria, is divided from the See pp128–9. following the numbering
small beach of Punta del Persico: is home to the church of Santa mainland by just a narrow
the landscape open to the sea Maria delle Grazie (15th century) channel. It is covered in dense
is genuinely breathtaking. and the 16th­century monastery vegetation on one side, and has a San Terenzo The port of Lerici, dominated by an imposing castle
of the Olivetans. By the inlet of steep cliffs and caves on the La Spezia. Road Map F5. V La on the Regional Map.
i Portovenere Varignano, nearby, is a ruined other. In the past, Portor marble, Spezia. @ n Lerici, 0187 967 346. The Gulf of Poets
a valuable black stone used in
Roman villa (2nd to 1st
La Spezia. Road Map F5. * 4,600. San Terenzo lies on the It was the Italian playwright Sem Benelli who first described the Gulf Within each town or city,
northern side of the Golfo della
of Lerici as the “Gulf of Poets” in 1919. It is an evocative and romantic
V La Spezia. @ n Piazza Bastreri 7, Spezia, overlooking the pretty epithet, and not inaccurate given the personalities who arrived here
0187 790 691. _ Festa della bay of Lerici. Once a small in the 19th and 20th centuries: including Percy Bysshe Shelley (who
Madonna Bianca (17 Aug). group of fishermen’s houses drowned at sea en route to La Spezia from Livorno, in 1822, and was
∑ portovenere.it and cremated at Viareggio) and his wife Mary (author of Frankenstein), you will find detailed
∑ prolocoportovenere.it clustered on the shore, San Lord Byron, DH Lawrence and Virginia
Terenzo was a favourite among
Portus Veneris (the port of certain 19th­century poets, Woolf. The gulf still has strong appeal today
and attracts artists and intellectuals, mainly
Venus) was praised for its including Percy Bysshe Shelley. Italians. As a consequence a “cultural park” information on important
beauty as far back as Roman Casa Magni, the last home has been established, called the Parco
times. Nowadays, its beauty and Shelley shared with his wife Culturale Golfo dei Poeti, joining similar
cachet even rival those Mary, is located nearby. Today, parks dedicated to Eugenio Montale, in the
of Portofino. the village is suffering from the Cinque Terre, and in the Val di Magra and buildings and other sights.
Lying at the base of the rocky effects of mass tourism. Sights Terra di Luni. For more information contact
cliff that fringes the western to visit include a castle on a the tourist office APT Cinque Terre­Golfo
side of the Golfo della Spezia, rocky promontory nearby; Percy Bysshe Shelley dei Poeti in La Spezia (see p207).
Portovenere resembles a typical The harbour at Portovenere, with its characteristic painted houses the church of Santa Maria
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp181–2 and pp191–4
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