Page 84 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Italian Riviera

82  GENO A AREA B Y AREA

Benso, Bernardo Castello and focal point is a beautifully
and Lazzaro Tavarone. restored 16th­century Genoese
La Commenda, next door, galley: eye­catching behind its
was founded by the Knights glass veil, lit up at night and
of St John in the 11th cen­ visible across the whole bay.
tury to provide lodgings As well as a fine display of maps
for pilgrims waiting to sail and sailing instruments, the
to the Holy Land. It also museum houses an original
functioned as a hospital. 17th­century launching berth
Its portico, topped by and a reconstructed 17th­
two loggias, faces onto cen tury pirate ship, which
Piazza della Commenda. visitors can board.
There are wonderful Fully interactive, the museum
frescoes on the third floor. enables visitors to experience life
The complex was rebuilt at sea. There is even the oppor­
in the 16th century, but tunity to see what it is like to
restoration work in the cross the Cape Horn in a storm.
1970s revived its
Romanesque
Loggias on Piazza della Commenda appearance. Exhibi­
tions and cultural
e San Giovanni events are held here.
di Pré and La A short walk eastwards,
Commenda along Via di Pré (derived
from “prati”, meaning
Piazza della Commenda 1. Map 2 D2. fields, a reminder of how
Tel 010 265 486. Open Upper church: rural this area once was),
9am–noon, 4–7pm Mon–Wed & Fri, leads to the Porta dei
9am–noon Thu & Sun. Lower church: Vacca (or Santa Fede), a
10am–6pm Fri–Sat. Museum La Gothic arch (1155) much
Commenda: Tel 010 557 36 81. altered by the addition of
Open 10am–5pm Tue–Fri (to 7pm subsequent buildings.
Sat, Sun & hols). Last entrance: 30 mins
before closure. ^ without permission.
r Galata Museo
del Mare
A stone’s throw from the main
railway station, the church of Calata De Mari 1, Darsena.
San Giovanni di Pré was founded Map 2 D3. Tel 010 234 5655. The magnificent Fountain of Neptune, in the
in 1180 by the Knights of the Open Nov–Feb: 10am–6pm gardens of Palazzo Doria Pamphilj
Order of St John. The original Tue–Sun (to 7:30pm Sat & Sun);
Romanesque church was largely Mar–Oct:10am–7:30pm Tue–Sun; t Palazzo Doria
rebuilt in the 14th century. The Aug daily. Last entrance: 60 mins Pamphilj or
bell tower, adorned with a pyra­ before closure. & 8 (electronic del Principe
midal spire, was left untouched. guide for the blind available).
7 h = -
The main church consists, in ∑ galatamuseodelmare.it Piazza del Principe 4. Map 1 C1.
fact, of two churches, one above Tel 010 255 509. Open 10am–6pm
the other. The lower one, which daily. Last entrance: 45 mins before
was always intended for public Completed in 2004 and intrinsic closure. Closed 1 Jan, Easter, 1 May,
worship, has three aisles with to the revival of Genoa’s port Aug, 25 Dec. & 8 book ahead. 7
cross vaults. The upper church area, this museum of the sea = ^ ∑ doriapamphilj.it
was used by the Knights of the is the largest museum of its
Order and was opened to the kind in the Mediterranean. The Constructed for Andrea Doria
public only in the 18th century. com plex combines 16th­century when he was at the height of
To do this, the church had to be and Neo­Classical architecture his political power, this palazzo
re­ oriented in the opposite with a stylish glass, wood and was conceived as a truly magni­
direction, an entrance made in aluminium structure. It is ficent, princely residence, a
the apse and a second, artificial located in the Darsena port demonstration of the admiral’s
apse created from the opposite area, alongside the Stazione power. It is still owned by the
end. The upper church is similar Marittima and the historic Doria Pamphilj family.
in style to the lower church, Galata shipyards. The building was begun in
though it is larger. Heavy columns The museum illustrates Genoa’s around 1529 and incorporated
support Gothic arches between longstanding relation ship with several existing buildings. When
the aisles and ribbed vaults. the sea, from the Middle Ages Charles V arrived as a guest in
There are paintings by Giulio to the present. The star exhibit 1533, the decoration was largely
For hotels and restaurants in this area see p180 and pp189–90

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