Page 26 - Forbes - USA (October 2019)
P. 26
Steve Forbes Cont.
fective sales levy of 20% on just about tion is the result of production. RESTAURANTS:
everything we buy in order to cover A far more comprehensive, realistic GO, CONSIDER, STOP
the costs of European-style health- and enlightening picture than GDP is
Edible enlightenment from our eatery
care? To get a sense of what we’d hear, GO—gross output—or, as it’s called in experts and colleagues Richard Nalley,
just take a look at how Elizabeth War- Great Britain, total output. It’s like the dif- Monie Begley and Randall Lane, as well
ren responded when Stephen Colbert ference between an X-ray and a CAT scan. as brothers Bob, Kip and Tim.
22 pressed her on whether her health- GDP is the value of all finished z Le Jardinier
care nostrums would mean socking it products and services within a coun- 610 Lexington Ave., at 53rd St.
to the middle class with higher taxes. try’s borders. It’s the equivalent of a (Tel.: 212-451-9211)
T
N She clumsily tried to dance around company’s gross profit, its so-called Chef Alain Verzeroli is steeped in the
E luxury-food traditions of both France and
M the question, embarrassing herself. bottom line. But GDP ignores reve-
M At least Bernie Sanders told the truth: nue and expenses. No security analyst Japan. His ground-floor restaurant’s leafy
O Yes, they would. (But then in Obama- would do that in evaluating a compa- plants and its marble walls and tabletops
C shot through with veins of green create an
esque “You can keep your doctor and ny! In contrast GO includes the steps
& ultra-stylish and tranquil garden-like oasis.
The menu’s centerpiece is its use of seasonal
T health insurance” style, he claimed that go into making those products
C they would come out ahead because and services. Figured this way, the fruits and vegetables. A prime example is the
F A sensational watermelon, heirloom tomato,
medical care would be so much size of the U.S. economy is over $45 ginger and mint appetizer. But Verzeroli
•
cheaper and better when Washington trillion, not the $21 trillion currently doesn’t stint on his fish selections, such as
bureaucrats ran it.) Poor Colbert was used. GO is a far more sensitive ba- the perfect king salmon with mushroom
pilloried by the left for being so mean rometer of how we’re doing and what bouillon, or in his meat offerings, like the
smoky, rich and toothsome bavette au jus.
to Warren. our future prospects are, because, un-
Desserts are superb. You may never taste a
As if more income taxes weren’t like GDP, GO immediately reflects more mango-y mango than in his mango
bad enough, European nations are when production and investment are crémeux with coconut sorbet.
also crushed with sky-high payroll lev- growing or weakening. z Agern
ies. In the U.S. the maximum tax rate Renowned economist Mark Skou-
Grand Central Terminal, 89 East 42nd
for the payroll tax dubbed “FICA” on sen has long advocated using GO St. (Tel.: 646-568-4018)
your pay stub is 15.3%. In Europe the (Mark was a recent guest on my This Danish contemporary spot serves up
norm is 35% to 50%! podcast) as a better way of looking seasonal fare with a Scandinavian flourish.
Indeed, the best things in life are at how we’re doing economically. To (It also makes a great Cosmopolitan!) The
beef tartare is as tasty as it is beautifully pre-
not always free. make his point, he uses a cup of cof- sented, and the succulent pork shoulder is
fee as an example. GDP leaves out the particularly noteworthy. The chef even man-
growing and harvesting of the cof- ages to make fava beans exciting. Desserts
GDP Is the Wrong fee bean, its processing and shipping are good but are perhaps the weakest link
in an otherwise perfect meal. One caution
Measure to Gauge the and finally the brewing that gives you for a restaurant in a rail station: Service is
the java. surprisingly slow.
Economy’s Health Thanks to Skousen’s relentless and z Momofuku Ssäm Bar
scholarly pressure, the Bureau of Eco- 207 Second Ave., at 13th St.
WE’VE LONG BEEN led to believe nomic Analysis, which compiles U.S. (ssambar.momofuku.com)
that the best measure of an economy’s GDP numbers, now puts out a GO
Arguably the most influential restaurant
size and health is GDP—gross domestic number each quarter. (Before Skou- from New York’s most important restaurant
product. It isn’t. It’s a very incomplete sen’s pressure decades ago, the BEA group of the past decade, Ssäm has a new
and, indeed, misleading picture of how had issued GO every five years.) chef and a new menu focused on Singapore
street food, such as skate roasted in banana
an economy actually operates. But there’s a huge—and inexcus- leaf. While you can still furtively order a
How often have we heard that con- able—kicker: Quarterly GO is is- pork bun, the culinary theatrics are largely
sumption is 70% of the economy? In real- sued more than three months after gone. Diners have noticed: It’s never been
easier to score a table.
ity business investment and production the initial estimate for GDP, all but
are the largest parts. Without produc- guaranteeing that the media will ig- z Mimi
tion there is no consumption. Consump- nore it. Why does the BEA do this? 185 Sullivan St., between Bleecker and
West Houston streets (Tel.: 212-418-1260)
Because GO demolishes the reigning
You can’t go wrong with anything at this tiny
Keynesian economic orthodoxy that Village eatery. The menu is French with an
Introducing gives primacy to consumption, not updated take on many classics. For a tasty
What’s Ahead, production. surprise try the veal brain appetizer. The
softshell crab is among the best you’ll have
the new podcast hosted President Trump should imme-
had all season, and Goldilocks would declare
by Steve Forbes. diately order the BEA to get off its the hanger steak “just right.” If you choose
Subscribe now on iTunes duff and issue GO at the same time it the baba au rhum for dessert, you won’t
or GooglePlay Store. does GDP. F need an after-dinner drink.
O C T O B E R 3 1 , 2 0 1 9
F O R B E S . C O M

