Page 26 - Forbes - USA (October 2019)
P. 26

Steve Forbes Cont.



              fective sales levy of 20% on just about     tion is the result of production.           RESTAURANTS:
              everything  we  buy  in  order  to  cover       A far more comprehensive, realistic     GO, CONSIDER, STOP
              the  costs  of  European-style  health-     and  enlightening  picture  than  GDP  is
                                                                                                      Edible enlightenment from our eatery
              care? To get a sense of what we’d hear,     GO—gross  output—or,  as  it’s  called  in   experts and colleagues Richard Nalley,
              just take a look at how Elizabeth War-      Great Britain, total output. It’s like the dif-  Monie Begley and Randall Lane, as well
              ren responded when Stephen Colbert          ference between an X-ray and a CAT scan.    as brothers Bob, Kip and Tim.
      22      pressed  her  on  whether  her  health-         GDP  is  the  value  of  all  finished   z Le Jardinier
              care nostrums would mean socking it         products and services within a coun-        610 Lexington Ave., at 53rd St.
              to the middle class with higher taxes.      try’s  borders.  It’s  the  equivalent  of  a   (Tel.: 212-451-9211)
       T
       N      She  clumsily  tried  to  dance  around     company’s  gross  profit,  its  so-called    Chef Alain Verzeroli is steeped in the
       E                                                                                              luxury-food traditions of both France and
       M      the  question,  embarrassing  herself.      bottom  line.  But  GDP  ignores  reve-
       M      At least Bernie Sanders told the truth:     nue and expenses. No security analyst       Japan. His ground-floor restaurant’s leafy
       O      Yes, they would. (But then in Obama-        would do that in evaluating a compa-        plants and its marble walls and tabletops
       C                                                                                              shot through with veins of green create an
              esque “You can keep your doctor and         ny! In contrast GO includes the steps
       &                                                                                              ultra-stylish and tranquil garden-like oasis.
                                                                                                      The menu’s centerpiece is its use of seasonal
       T      health  insurance”  style,  he  claimed     that  go  into  making  those  products
       C      they would come out ahead because           and  services.  Figured  this  way,  the    fruits and vegetables. A prime example is the
       F A                                                                                            sensational watermelon, heirloom tomato,
              medical  care  would  be  so  much          size  of  the  U.S.  economy  is  over  $45   ginger and mint appetizer. But Verzeroli
       •
              cheaper and better when Washington          trillion, not the $21 trillion currently    doesn’t stint on his fish selections, such as
              bureaucrats ran it.) Poor Colbert was       used.  GO  is  a  far  more  sensitive  ba-  the perfect king salmon with mushroom
              pilloried by the left for being so mean     rometer of how we’re doing and what         bouillon, or in his meat offerings, like the
                                                                                                      smoky, rich and toothsome bavette au jus.
              to Warren.                                  our future prospects are, because, un-
                                                                                                      Desserts are superb. You may never taste a
                 As  if  more  income  taxes  weren’t     like  GDP,  GO  immediately  reflects        more mango-y mango than in his mango
              bad  enough,  European  nations  are        when production and investment are          crémeux with coconut sorbet.
              also crushed with sky-high payroll lev-     growing or weakening.                       z Agern
              ies. In the U.S. the maximum tax rate           Renowned economist Mark Skou-
                                                                                                      Grand Central Terminal, 89 East 42nd
              for the payroll tax dubbed “FICA” on        sen  has  long  advocated  using  GO        St. (Tel.: 646-568-4018)
              your pay stub is 15.3%. In Europe the       (Mark  was  a  recent  guest  on  my        This Danish contemporary spot serves up
              norm is 35% to 50%!                         podcast)  as  a  better  way  of  looking   seasonal fare with a Scandinavian flourish.
                 Indeed,  the  best  things  in  life  are   at how we’re doing economically. To      (It also makes a great Cosmopolitan!) The
                                                                                                      beef tartare is as tasty as it is beautifully pre-
              not always free.                            make his point, he uses a cup of cof-       sented, and the succulent pork shoulder is
                                                          fee as an example. GDP leaves out the       particularly noteworthy. The chef even man-
                                                          growing  and  harvesting  of  the  cof-     ages to make fava beans exciting. Desserts
              GDP Is the Wrong                            fee bean, its processing and shipping       are good but are perhaps the weakest link
                                                                                                      in an otherwise perfect meal. One caution
              Measure to Gauge the                        and finally the brewing that gives you       for a restaurant in a rail station: Service is
                                                          the java.                                   surprisingly slow.
              Economy’s Health                                Thanks to Skousen’s relentless and      z Momofuku Ssäm Bar

                                                          scholarly pressure, the Bureau of Eco-      207 Second Ave., at 13th St.
             WE’VE  LONG  BEEN  led  to  believe          nomic  Analysis,  which  compiles  U.S.     (ssambar.momofuku.com)
             that the best measure of an economy’s        GDP  numbers,  now  puts  out  a  GO
                                                                                                      Arguably the most influential restaurant
             size and health is GDP—gross domestic        number  each  quarter.  (Before  Skou-      from New York’s most important restaurant
             product. It isn’t. It’s a very incomplete    sen’s  pressure  decades  ago,  the  BEA    group of the past decade, Ssäm has a new
             and, indeed, misleading picture of how       had issued GO every five years.)             chef and a new menu focused on Singapore
                                                                                                      street food, such as skate roasted in banana
             an economy actually operates.                    But  there’s  a  huge—and  inexcus-     leaf. While you can still furtively order a
                 How often have we heard that con-        able—kicker:  Quarterly  GO  is  is-        pork bun, the culinary theatrics are largely
             sumption is 70% of the economy? In real-     sued  more  than  three  months  after      gone. Diners have noticed: It’s never been
                                                                                                      easier to score a table.
             ity business investment and production       the initial estimate for GDP, all but
             are  the  largest  parts.  Without  produc-  guaranteeing that the media will ig-        z Mimi
             tion there is no consumption. Consump-       nore it. Why does the BEA do this?          185 Sullivan St., between Bleecker and
                                                                                                      West Houston streets (Tel.: 212-418-1260)
                                                          Because GO demolishes the reigning
                                                                                                      You can’t go wrong with anything at this tiny
                                                          Keynesian  economic  orthodoxy  that        Village eatery. The menu is French with an
                              Introducing                 gives  primacy  to  consumption,  not       updated take on many classics. For a tasty
                              What’s Ahead,               production.                                 surprise try the veal brain appetizer. The
                                                                                                      softshell crab is among the best you’ll have
                              the new podcast hosted          President  Trump  should  imme-
                                                                                                      had all season, and Goldilocks would declare
                              by Steve Forbes.            diately  order  the  BEA  to  get  off  its   the hanger steak “just right.” If you choose
                              Subscribe now on iTunes     duff and issue GO at the same time it       the baba au rhum for dessert, you won’t
                              or GooglePlay Store.        does GDP.     F                             need an after-dinner drink.


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