Page 109 - Off The Tourist Trail - 1000 Unexpected Travel Alternatives (Part 2 of 2)

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ART AND CULTURE

ABOVE Artifacts filling every nook and cranny of the Sir John Soane’s Museum, London, UK
RIGHT Distinctive Giacometti figures outside the Fondation Marguerite et Aimé Maeght, France

SIR JOHN SOANE’S MUSEUM, LONDON, UK One of joys of the Sir John Soane’s FONDATION MARGUERITE ET AIMÉ MAEGHT, ST-PAUL-DE-VENCE, FRANCE This
Museum (see p283) is watching visitors’ faces as they enter each room. Their eyes widen, privately run gallery is the best place to get a feel for post-war art in the south of France.
their jaws drop, and they invariably smile at the discovery of such a cornucopia of treasures. Set in the countryside above the Riviera, the real star is the building. Designed by Catalan
On the outside, this straight-laced Georgian terraced building gives no hint of what is in architect Josep Lluís Sert, the single-story gallery is set around a courtyard peopled by
store. Sir John Soane was one of the founders of the British Museum, and his London Alberto Giacometti sculptures, and crowned with rooftop arrangements like nuns’ cowls,
home is like Dr Who’s Tardis – it seems to contain more art and antiquities than such a which help to suffuse the rooms with light. Artworks are skilfully integrated into the
house could possibly hold, much of it in specially made cabinets and display cases. building and gardens, including a labyrinth by Joan Miró and mosaics by Marc Chagall.

CENTRE BELGE DE LA BANDE DESSINÉE, GIARDINO DEI TAROCCHI, STUDIO MUSEUM, HARLEM, NEW
BRUSSELS, BELGIUM Inspired by Belgium’s GARAVICCHIO, ITALY The cartoon-like YORK, USA Dating from 1968, this was
favorite character, Tintin, this museum holds figures populating this garden are a joyful the country’s first museum to chart black
tens of thousands of comic books. From the flight of fancy, each based on tarot cards. America’s contribution to the arts. Today
first feature-film cartoons to the latest Made of ceramics, mosaic, and glass, they it showcases contemporary African-
digital masterpieces, it shows how strips were assembled by French artist Niki de American artists, and its artist-in-residence
are made, and the people who made them. Saint Phalle over the last 20 years of her life. program has launched many careers.

THE STATE MUSEUM OF V. V. MAYAKOVSKY, MOSCOW, RUSSIA A visit to this CHARLES HOSMER MORSE MUSEUM FADO MUSEUM, LISBON, PORTUGAL
museum helps to recall that the Russian Revolution was not just an overthrow of the OF AMERICAN ART, FLORIDA, USA Best heard live in the tiny bars of Lisbon’s
political order, but a revolution in the arts, too. Here in this building lived the Russian Founded by the granddaughter of Chicago Alfama district, the haunting music of
Futurist poet and artist Vladimir Mayakovsky; one room has been furnished to look as it industrialist Charles Hosmer Morse, this Portugal, Fado, evokes all the joy and
would have done when he moved in. His poetry, plays, film scripts, and poster art gave a has the largest collection of work by tragedy of human experience. Alfama is
strident voice to the Revolution. Today the space is an inspired blend of crazy angles and Louis Comfort Tiffany, and represents the also home to this intriguing museum,
colors, of photographs, manuscripts, art, and memorabilia – the whole thing has been high point of America’s Arts and Crafts where you can follow the development
described as being like the inside of his brain. As for many, however, the Revolution movement. Exhibits range from familiar of the style, see the Portuguese guitar
under Stalin turned sour, and Mayakovsky became increasingly disillusioned, which may lamps and stained glass to paintings, and other instruments, and listen to
have contributed to his suicide here in 1930. pottery, jewelry, and a glittering chapel. recordings of Fado’s great performers.

PRECITA EYES MURAL ARTS CENTER, CAVE OF THE SWIMMERS, WADI SORA, ISLAMIC ART MUSEUM MALAYSIA
SAN FRANCISCO, USA The streets of EGYPT To the members of an expedition (IAMM), KUALA LUMPUR, MALAYSIA
the Bay Area are striking for their murals. that stumbled on this cave in the 1930s, This modern museum in Kuala Lumpur’s
Many of these originated from the Mission the black silhouetted figures painted on leafy Lake Gardens is one of the best
District’s Precita Eyes Mural Arts Center, a the rock walls appeared to be floating, places to explore aspects of Muslim
community organization that runs art suggesting swimmers. Nearby caves show culture shared between India, China, and
classes and plans projects to beautify the white cattle and tethered calves, giraffes, Southeast Asia. Two extensive floors hold
neighborhood. In a strange twist for archers, and women in skirts, hinting at a permanent exhibition of jewelry, coins,
street art, murals can only be reproduced other aspects of the lives of their early armor, metalwork, ceramics, textiles, and
with permission from the artist. inhabitants, dating from around 8000 BC. manuscripts, as well as a large library.

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