Page 112 - Off The Tourist Trail - 1000 Unexpected Travel Alternatives (Part 2 of 2)

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CITIES FORGET AMSTERDAM?

Delft THE BUILD-UP Dubbed the “Venice of the
North,” Amsterdam is world-renowned for its
extensive canal system: its waterways are cruised
by tour boats and moored with brightly painted
barges. Big on outrageous clubs and wild
vs Amsterdam nightlife, Amsterdam is also a cultural and
historical center of great acclaim – its galleries,
museums, and exhibits attract discriminating
art-lovers, romantics, and shoestring travelers
alike. The city’s leafy parks are popular with
With none of the big-city problems associated with Holland’s capital city, Delft offers a picnickers in the summer.
succession of charming canals edged with cafés, cobblestones, and historic grandeur
THE LETDOWN But not that far from the art
galleries, canalside cafés, and flower-filled gardens,
there’s Amsterdam’s red-light district, which can
be a distasteful reminder of why many visitors
MAIN CITY SIGHTS
NEED TO KNOW come here. Adult-themed pubs, clubs, and bars
Royal Delft Blue-and-white Delft ceramics with take sleaze to another level. It’s an ugly world far
LOCATION Delft is in the province Oriental-inspired patterns have been an important
of South Holland (Zuid Holland), /PSUI removed from the city’s sophisticated beauty.
4FB
8 miles (13 km) from The Hague (SPOJOHFO export for over 400 years. In the mid-17th century,
and 9 miles (15 km) from Rotterdam GOING ANYWAY? To get the most from
/&5)&3-"/%4 the city had around 30 potteries. Today, Royal Delft
POPULATION Around 100,000 "NTUFSEBN (www.royaldelft.com) is the last remaining Amsterdam, rent a bicycle from any of the many
VISITORS PER YEAR 5IF )BHVF "SOIFN ceramics factory. It’s open to visitors. MacBike Bicycle Rentals shops (www.macbike.
Around 850,000 %&-'5 nl). Then pick up a map of the dozen bicycle
DAYTIME (&3. "/: Museum Nusantara Like Amsterdam, Delft boasts routes that weave their way around the city and
TEMPERATURES &JOEIPWFO a 400-year link with Indonesia, and the fine range
Jan: 37°F (3°C); Apr: 61°F (16°C); #&-(*6. of exhibits at Museum Nusantara (www.nusantara- hit the roads.
Jul: 64°F (18°C); Oct: 61°F (16°C)
delft.nl) depicts a fascinating shared history and
culture. Founded by the colonial Indische Instelling
Delft is often referred to as “Mini Amsterdam,” and company, the museum houses exotic collections
it’s easy to see why. Pretty stone bridges straddle of artifacts from all over Indonesia, including pottery
tree-lined canals, and Gothic and Renaissance-style and artworks, which chart an evocative relationship
houses rub shoulders with flower-clad convents, from the era of the Dutch East India Company.
ancient monasteries, and ornate church spires. The Vermeer Cube Walk Having painted all his
market square (the largest in the Netherlands) is masterpieces in Delft, Vermeer is honored in
hemmed with dozens of cozy restaurants and grand style throughout the city. You can follow a
pavement bars, while floating cafés on the canals succession of rotating cubes along a dedicated
provide views of the historic 700-year-old center. Vermeer Cube Walk (www.essentialvermeer.com)
But the similarities largely end there. Unlike that travels back to the artist’s birth in 1632 and ABOVE A busker plying his trade outside a pavement café –
Amsterdam, Delft is one of Europe’s most serene then chart his works, life, loves, and death en route. a more palatable side of life in Amsterdam
cities, unblemished by the noise, crowds, street- Nieuwe Kerk The crypts of the Nieuwe Kerk, on
crime, drugs, and prostitution that take the edge the market square, are testament to Delft’s historic
off the country’s capital. It’s a sea of bicycles that ties with the Dutch royal house. The mausoleum
weave, wobble, race, and screech around the of the assassinated William of Orange (1533–84) –
puzzle of passageways and bicycle paths. Delft’s considered the founding father of the Netherlands
cyclists favor battered Dutch-built boneshakers – is to be found here.
(their counterparts in Amsterdam opt for sleek,
streamlined models), and these trademark single-
gear Omas, with their solid handlebars, thick tires PRACTICAL INFORMATION
and industrial-sized padlocks, are available to hire
Getting There and Around Where to Stay
from the tourist office in Hippolytusbuurt. Simply Delft’s nearest airport is Schiphol, Blessed with 18th-century
ring your bell loudly to pass as a local. near Amsterdam. A frequent charm, the Hotel Coen Delft
Delft was put on the map for art-loving romantics train service links the two cities. (www.hotelcoendelft.nl) is
around the world by Tracy Chevalier’s international The journey time is 50 minutes. crammed with Delft pottery and
Delft city center is compact and antiques, and it’s within walking
bestseller Girl with a Pearl Earring. Set in the
easy to walk round, but if you’d distance of most attractions.
household of the 17th-century painter Johannes like the real deal, hire a bike.
Vermeer, it’s the story of a peasant maid who When to Go
Where to Eat June, July and August often bring
becomes the artist’s assistant and then his model. There’s something for everyone sunshine, but don’t bank on it.
In the film adaptation of the book, several scenes in Delft – from fast food to
Budget per Day for Two
were shot against the blood-red window shutters gourmet cooking. For the city’s Around US$275.
of Delft’s Stadhuis, and there are guided walks (see best pancakes, served on huge
plates, head to Café Wapen van Website
right) that center on Vermeer’s status as one of the
Delft (tel. +31 15 21 231 68). www.delft.nl
best-known artists of the Dutch Golden Age.

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