Page 152 - Off The Tourist Trail - 1000 Unexpected Travel Alternatives (Part 2 of 2)

320

CITIES

Aerial view of Pittwater with Palm Beach in the distance
Bays & Harbors
Dee Why Beach surfer heads for the waves
Quiet Beaches Quarantine Station date-stone at North Head Port Jackson, more commonly known as Sydney

Historic Sydney Harbour, may be the jewel in the crown but there
When summer arrives, Sydneysiders flock to their are other fine bays on the doorstep of the city.
beaches to escape the city heat and enjoy the Most visitors to Sydney fly over Botany Bay as
warm waters. If the crowds on Bondi are a bit The Aboriginal-owned Tribal Warrior Association they descend towards Kingsford Smith Airport.
daunting then try one of the secluded, lesser- runs cruises that give a unique perspective of the Captain Cook originally landed here in 1770, just
known beaches to be found along the coastline. harbor and its history, including the traditional inside its southern headland, now a part of Botany
At the bottom of a steep, grassy hill in the names of, and stories about, major landmarks. They Bay National Park. Close by is the Towra Point
South Head suburb of Vaucluse is tiny Milk Beach. demonstrate the fishing methods, food gathering Nature Reserve, a significant wetland conservation
A rocky outcrop protects the beach from most techniques, and coastal lifestyle of the tribes that area, while at Brighton-le-Sands you can mingle
currents and provides great snorkeling. Its lived in the area prior to colonization, before giving with Sydney’s European community, picnicking in
spectacular and uninterrupted views of the Opera a cultural performance on Shark Island. the sunshine on the Mediterranean-style beaches.
House and Harbour Bridge make it ideal for New Farther west, Cockatoo Island is the largest Port Hacking is situated between Sydney’s
Year’s Eve fireworks views. If the lack of shark island in the harbor. Over the last 200 years it has outer suburbs to the north, and the Royal National
netting is a concern, take the short Heritage been used as a prison, school, reformatory, and Park to the south. Explore Cronulla Beach and take
Foreshore Walk to nearby Nielson Park Beach. shipyard. Take a self-guided audio tour around the a ferry along Gunnamatta Bay and across the
To the north, the surf beaches still have Bondi- convict sites, workshops, and slipways, or camp waterway to Bundeena, gateway to the park itself.
style golden-white sands and rugged headlands, overnight to experience it by moonlight. Spend a day exploring to find Aboriginal rock
but without the crowds. A short way past charming For an eerie insight into the hardships of life carvings and lovely coastal walks, as well as a lively
Manly is the wide sweep of Dee Why Beach. in the early days of the colony, take an evening arts scene and buzzy cafés.
Patrolled by lifeguards during summer, it is quite ghost tour of the Quarantine Station. Located on To the north of the city are Pittwater Harbour
protected, has a tidal pool for the kids and a great isolated North Head, it housed migrants from and Broken Bay. Surrounded by beautiful national
selection of cafés nearby. From here, enjoy a arriving ships who were suspected of having parks and dotted with islands, these waters have all
leisurely stroll north along the deserted sands to contagious diseases. Most passengers were free to the beauty of Sydney Harbour but without the
Long Reef Beach and then out to the tip of the leave after 40 days but over 500 died in harrowing crowds or the urban landscape. On Pittwater’s
peninsula, from where there are gorgeous views. circumstances and are now said to haunt the old southerly headland is the popular and exclusive
A fair way farther north (about 45 mins by car buildings. Further along North Head are the World Palm Beach, with its chic restaurants and millionaires’
from Sydney), but well worth the trip, is Bungan War II remnants of North Fort. Heavy artillery was mansions. From here you can rent a boat for the
Beach. Accessible only down a 1,300-ft (400-m) built into tunnels in the sandstone cliff to protect day and explore the bay’s isolated beaches, islands,
steep series of paths and steps, this wild and the city from potential invasion. Tours take you and long inlets, landing occasionally to bushwalk
unspoiled beach is backed by a natural bushland through the fortifications and tunnels, the Defence to ancient Aboriginal carvings.
reserve where bandicoots and owls may be seen. of Sydney Memorial Park and the Memorial Walk.

Practical Information
Practical Information Practical Information
Botany Bay Sydney; bus 309 from Wynyard Station; www.environment.nsw.
Bungan Beach Mona Vale; numerous buses from Wynyard Station Cockatoo Island Ferries depart Circular Quay; www.cockatooisland.gov.au gov.au/NationalParks/parkHome.aspx?id=N0066
Dee Why Beach Warringah; ferry from Circular Quay to Manly, then bus 136 North Fort North Head, Manly; ferry to Manley, then bus 135; Pittwater/Palm Beach Upper North Shore; bus 190 from Wynyard Station;
from Manly Wharf www.northfort.org.au www.pittwater.nsw.gov.au/recreation
Long Reef Beach Warringah; ferry from Circular Quay to Manly, then bus 136 Quarantine Station North Head, Manly; water shuttle from Darling Harbour Royal National Park Bundeena; train from Central Station to Karingbah then
from Manly Wharf or ferry to Manly then bus 135; www.qstation.com.au 978 bus to Port Hacking; www.environment.nsw.gov.au/NationalParks/
Milk Beach and Nielson Park Vaucluse; bus 325 from Circular Quay Tribal Warrior Association Tours depart Circular Quay; www.tribalwarrior.org parkHome.aspx?id=N0030

19/2/09 14:46:45
320-321-cit_offbeatsyd_fo.indd 320
US320-321-cit_offbeatsyd_fo.indd320 320 16/4/09 12:35:53
Th R d L T ll d LAYERS PRINTED: