Page 149 - Off The Tourist Trail - 1000 Unexpected Travel Alternatives (Part 2 of 2)

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CITIES

A restaurant inside Galérie Véro-Dodat
Les Passages

In 19th-century Paris, the city’s shopping arcades, or
passages couverts, were as much a fashionable
place to show off as they were to shop. The
emerging bourgeoisie was enamored by these
glitzy, glass-roofed galleries, not least because of
their bright lighting, heating, and shelter from the
rain, and careening carriages of the busy streets
outside. They also had cafés and restaurants where
ladies of leisure could linger and people-watch.
One such arcade is Galérie Vivienne, which has
been deftly restored with vaulted arches and
columns, and brims with smart bistros and high-
A couple on a bridge over the Canal St-Martin at dusk end fashion boutiques, such as Jean-Paul Gaultier.
One of the city’s oldest wine stores, the enchanting
Canal St-Martin ethnic vibe. Africa meets Paris on Rue du Château Legrand Filles et Fils, is also found here. Another of
the city’s passages was fitted out in 1826 by two
d’Eau, a strip of beauty shops and barbers touting
and the 10th braids, wigs, dyes, creams, and all manner of Afro- butchers, Véro and Dodat, with gaslights, mirrors,
Carib body magic, while at Passage Brady and Rue
and black-and-white marble floors, and crowned
Cail, Indian and Pakistani restaurants and spice with a glass roof interlaced with painted panels.
If you step away from the grinding traffic of the shops rule. Cool off at the Musée de l’Eventail, Today it’s home to antiques shops, art galleries, and
main boulevards and flurry of commuters at Gare which showcases 800 fans, some centuries old, personalized couture make-up. The Passage du
du Nord and Gare de l’Est, the 10th arrondissement made by the Houguet family, France’s only Grand Cerf, with its three storys and aerial bridges,
is a charmer. Its meandering Canal St-Martin, a remaining fan manufacturer. is the highest Parisian arcade and the place to pick
19th-century waterway bordered by swaying up funky 1950s furniture and pretty pearl necklaces.
chestnut and plane trees and overhung by iron Practical Information One of the oldest remaining arcades, Passage des
footbridges, has become a magnet for picnickers, Antoine & Lili 95 Quai de Valmy; tel. +33 1 48 34 40 93; www.antoineetlili.com Panoramas, was built in 1800 and is the home of the
café-goers, retro-shoppers, and sun-seekers. You Chez Prune 71 Quai de Valmy; tel. +33 1 42 41 30 47 stamp-collecting trade. Peruse old postcards and
might even see a fisherman dangling a line. Hôpital St-Louis 1 Ave Claude Vellefaux; tel. +33 1 42 49 49 49 stamps here, and visit the bijou Théâtre des Variétés.
Mariners can take to the water on one of the cruise Last stop is Passage Jouffroy, known for its waxworks
Musée de l’Eventail 2 Boulevard de Strasbourg; tel. +33 1 42 08 90 20
boats that chart the locks and tunnels up to the museum (Musée Grévin) and historical monument-
Bassin de la Villette, while film buffs can scout cum-budget lodging at the Hôtel Chopin.
the spot where Amélie Poulain skipped stones
in the quirky 2001 French film, Amélie.
Practical Information
Drift along Quai de Valmy for sustenance – a
Galérie Véro-Dodat From 19 Rue Jean Rousseau to 2 Rue du Bouloi,
glass of wine with olive tapenade and taramasalata
Beaubourg and Les Halles; Métro: Louvre or Palais Royal
at supremely laid-back Chez Prune, or snap up a
Galérie Vivienne From 4 Rue des Petits-Champs to 6 Rue Vivienne, Opéra;
piece of colorful kitsch from Antoine & Lili. Follow Métro: Bourse; www.galerie-vivienne.com
Quai Jemmapes to Rue de la Grange aux Belles and
Passage des Panoramas From 10 Rue St Marc to 11 Bd Montmartre, Opéra;
on to the Hôpital St-Louis, which ranks with the Métro: Richelieu-Drouot
buildings on Place des Vosges as one of the city’s Passage du Grand Cerf From 145 Rue St-Denis to 10 Rue Dussoubs, Beaubourg
best examples of brick and stone architecture. and Les Halles; Métro: Étienne Marcel; www.passagedugrandcerf.com
Nearby Place Ste-Marthe boasts atmospheric Passage Jouffroy From 12 Bd Montmartre to 9 Grange Batelière, Opéra;
streets lined with time-worn facades and a chirpy ABOVE The picturesque Canal St-Martin Métro: Richelieu-Drouot

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