Page 59 - Off The Tourist Trail - 1000 Unexpected Travel Alternatives (Part 2 of 2)
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                               Christmas Island                                                                                                   SPORTS AND ACTIVITIES





                            vs the Great Barrier Reef





                                The rarely seen coral reefs that surround Christmas Island in the Indian Ocean are just as splendid as
                                   those of the Great Barrier Reef in Australia – only they’re far more isolated and far less spoiled


                                                           effortlessly, rotates slightly to ponder on the   moray eel, which frequently pokes its nose up from
                  NEED TO KNOW
                                                           ungainly nature of the intruder suspended before   deep inside hard coral formations to view divers as
                  LOCATION Christmas   */%0/&4*"
                                 +BWB                      it, and then slides on by. A pod of spinner dolphins   they pass by its lair.
                  Island is in the Indian
                  Ocean, 225 miles (360 km)   $)3*45."4  %BSXJO  follows in its wake, mother and babies playfully   Rising up from the depths of the Indian Ocean,
                  south of Java  *4-"/%                    enclosing you, running rings around you and hoping   this rain forest-clad island is actually the tip of an
                  SCUBA DIVING                             for a new playmate. And in all this time there is no   ancient volcano. Its tortuous limestone base has
                  Christmas Island boasts steep walls,
                                        "6453"-*"
                  shallow reefs, and safe cave dives       one else in sight other than your diving buddy and   been shaped over millions of years by the waves
                  DAYTIME             1FSUI      4ZEOFZ    a divemaster. It’s a far cry from the more famous,   that lap the island and by rainwater that sinks into
                  TEMPERATURES             "EFMBJEF        but eternally crowded, Great Barrier Reef.  the porous rock, creating a honeycomb effect
                  Jan: 77°F (25°C); Apr: 79°F (26°C);   4PVUIFSO  $BOCFSSB
                  Jul: 75°F (24°C); Oct: 77°F (25°C)  0DFBO   Christmas Island is actually best known not for   beneath the surface. This rugged, potholed
                                                           its scuba diving, but for its extraordinary red-crab   landscape continues into the ocean, where
                                                           migration – a spectacle that takes place every year   countless underwater caves coax you back into
                 Your first descent into the crystal-clear blue water   when millions of the scarlet creatures emerge from   your diving gear and beneath the surface. You
                 surrounding Christmas Island will be nothing short   the rain forest and walk en masse down to the sea   enter the splendid Thundercliff Cave, on the shore
                 of breathtaking. Beneath the surface lies the most   to spawn. At this time, the shallow water turns   side of the immaculate fringing coral reef, at a
                 luxurious of hard coral reefs – a colorful, lush   pink with eggs, but beyond that the sea remains   depth of 53 ft (16 m) and through a series of pitch-
                 display that is almost ostentatious in its beauty. The   aquamarine, completely pristine, and utterly   black grottoes that are decorated with stalactites
                 view goes on forever, way down to the depths of   deserted except for its wealth of marine residents.   and stalagmites. A little farther on, you ascend to
                 the Indian Ocean. Brilliant rays of sunlight cast   The island has more indigenous species than   an extraordinary subterranean beach where you
                 stripes of turquoise through the sea and highlight   anywhere else on the planet except the Galapagos   can take off your dive gear and continue exploring
                 the flapping motion of a distant wing. Pause mid-  Islands, and some of the marine creatures are   on foot. It won’t be long before you see that you’re
                 water and wait for the manta ray as it approaches   unique too, including the exotic-looking dragon   inside an enormous cavern that is as beautiful and
                                                                                                      grand as any Gothic cathedral.

                    FORGET THE GREAT                                                                    PRACTICAL INFORMATION
                    BARRIER REEF?

                                                                                                        Getting There and Around   with a twist at Yoong Chong in
                    THE BUILD-UP Often touted as the top must-see-                                      Weekly flights arrive at the island’s   Poon San (tel. +61 9164 8133).
                    before-you-die attraction, Australia’s Great Barrier                                small international airport from   Where to Stay
                    Reef is the most famous coral reef on the planet, due                               either Singapore or Kuala   Try the Captain’s Last Resort (tel.
                                                                                                        Lumpur, Malaysia, depending
                    mostly to its overwhelming size. Swim with minke                                                       +61 9381 54576), a cozy cottage
                                                                                                        on the season. There are also
                    whales, dive with sharks, and snorkel with rainbow-                                                    with fantastic views of the sea.
                                                                                                        twice-weekly flights from Perth
                    hued fish along 3,000 individual reefs that traverse                                in Australia. There is no public   When to Go
                    the coast for 1,430 miles (2,300 km).                                               transportation on the island, so   Christmas Island sits just below
                                                                                                        it’s vital that you rent a car,   the equator, so its climate is
                    THE LETDOWN Thousands of people arrive at the                                       preferably a 4WD, to negotiate   tropical. Try to avoid February
                    Great Barrier Reef every year hoping to find a pristine   ABOVE A group of divers preparing to jump into the sea at the   the roads through the rain forest.  and March, which are the
                                                          Great Barrier Reef, Australia                                    wettest months.
                    underwater world teeming with fascinating marine                                    Where to Eat
                    life. Instead, they find a coral reef that has been damaged by crowds of unthinking visitors, many of whom   The handful of restaurants on   Budget per Day for Two
                                                                                                                           US$400 for a day’s diving,
                    trample on it at low tide and grab hold of fragile pieces while snorkeling and diving.  Christmas Island, including
                                                                                                        Australian bistros and Malay and   food, lodging, and
                                                                                                        Chinese restaurants, reflect its   transportation.
                    GOING ANYWAY? For the best diving, take a liveaboard boat to distant reefs well away from the day-trip regions.
                                                                                                        multicultural population.   Website
                    Never forget that the reef is a living entity.  Help ensure its longevity by using ecologically minded operators.  Indulge in Cantonese cuisine   www.christmas.net.au







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