Page 79 - Off The Tourist Trail - 1000 Unexpected Travel Alternatives (Part 2 of 2)

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ART AND CULTURE

François Boucher’s The Beautiful Kitchen Maid, Musée Cognacq-Jay Dramatic, brooding self-portrait by Eugène Delacroix
Musée Musée National

Sculptures in the grand stairwell of the Musée Nissim de Camondo
Cognacq-Jay Eugène Delacroix
Musée Nissim

While Ernest Cognacq and Marie-Louise Jay owed de Camondo While it’s true that the most famous work of
their considerable fortune to factory-made goods France’s leading Romantic painter – the bare-
(he founded the department store La Samaritaine breasted Liberty Leading the People – resides in
in 1869), their personal tastes were anything but Once settled into the vast Right Bank mansion that the Louvre, Delacroix’s former home and studio
modern and middle-of-the road. They preferred he modeled on Marie Antoinette’s Petit Trianon in is worth a visit for its artistic insight. Here, you’ll
the 18th century, and spent an impressive amount Versailles, Count Moïse de Camondo, former banker find small oil paintings; drawings and pastels;
of time (around 25 years) and corresponding to the Ottoman Empire, indulged his passion for the lithographs; and his only three attempts at fresco;
coinage amassing their collection. Works by French 18th century. Today, it almost feels as if the Count as well as the tools of his trade – palette, brushes,
Rococo artists La Tour, Fragonard, Van Loo, Boucher, has just stepped out: the table in the dining room and easel. Also on display are items collected on his
Greuze, and Watteau decorate the beautifully is sumptuously set for a dinner, while photographs travels to Morocco, including ceramics, sabres, and
restored 16th-century Hôtel Donon. Twenty rooms, of his fallen son, Nissim, nestle amid other precious kaftans. There are also letters from friends, including
over four floors, chart the aesthetic acumen of keepsakes. Six Aubusson tapestries line the walls George Sand and Charles Baudelaire. Indeed, he
the couple. There are Louis XVI chairs, paneling of his study, and the grand reception rooms brim had a quite a band of admirers, including now-
from the Château d’Eu (King Louis Philippe’s with exquisite items – country scenes painted by legendary artists such as Cézanne, Manet, and Van
summer residence in Normandy), and paintings Jean-Baptiste Huet in 1776, Louis XV and Louis XVI Gogh, all of whom copied his compositions. In
by Rembrandt alongside works by lesser-known furniture, portraits by François-Hubert Drouais, 1849 Delacroix began work on several large murals
artists such as Lavreince. A gallery of sculptures and Sevrès and Meissen porcelain. However, the themed around good and evil for the Chapelle des
features Rococo works by Falconet (a favorite of aptly named Grand Salon is the most spendid of Anges in St-Sulpice. In 1857, seriously ill and unable
Madame de Pompadour), Houdon, and Clodion, all, with its Aubusson upholstered chairs, sculptures to manage the trip across town, he moved his
along with porcelain from Saxe and Sevrès. There’s by Houdon and Clodion, a Savonnerie carpet home and studio here to be nearer to the church.
also a remarkable royal bed, with coiling leaves and from 1678, and exquisite commodes by master His notebooks on the project, along with studies
garlands carved into its posts, and lavish folds of cabinetmaker Adam Weisweiler. Interestingly, the for the murals, form part of the museum’s
damask descending majestically from an ornate trappings of modern life – kitchen, offices, and collection. Impressionist painter Paul Signac was
crown; a writing table inlaid with ivory, conjuring bathrooms – lie hidden behind fine wooden one of the founding members of the Société des
up images of perfumed letters and wax seals; and panelling. The Count died in 1935 and, while his Amis d’ Eugène Delacroix, a group established in
display cabinets brimming with everyday objects house survived World War II intact, tragically all his 1935 to save this studio from being demolished.
such as snuff boxes, and pocket watches. remaining family members perished in Auschwitz.
Practical Information
Practical Information Practical Information Address 6 Rue de Fürstemberg, St Germain-des-Prés; tel. +33 1 44 41 86
Address Hôtel Donon, 8 Rue Elzévir, Marais; tel. +33 1 40 27 07 21; Address 63 Rue de Monceau, Champs-Elysées; tel. +33 1 45 63 26 32; 50; www.musee-delacroix.fr
www.paris.fr/portail/Culture/Portal.lut?page_id=6466 www.lesartsdecoratifs.fr/francais/nissim-de-camondo Getting There Métro: St-Germain-des-Près, Mabillon; bus: 39, 63, 70,
Getting There Métro: St-Paul, Chemin Vert, Rambuteau; bus: 29, 69, 76, 96. Getting There Métro: Monceau, Villiers; bus: 30, 84, 94. 86, 95, 96.
Opening Times 10am–6pm Tue–Sun. Opening Times 10am–5pm Wed–Sun. Opening Times 9:30am–5pm Wed–Mon.

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