Page 81 - Off The Tourist Trail - 1000 Unexpected Travel Alternatives (Part 2 of 2)
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                 Wine-Tasting in Mendoza                                                                                                          ART AND CULTURE





                           vs Wine-Tasting in Napa Valley




                             In the shadow of the magnificent snowcapped Andes in Argentina, the high-altitude vineyards of Mendoza
                                       are a stunning alternative to the well-trodden wine trails of California’s Napa Valley




                                                           their way up to 5,577 ft (1,700 m) above sea level.
                  NEED TO KNOW
                                                           They cross deep fertile valleys and high plains and
                  LOCATION Mendoza lies in the             skirt around enormous vineyards that sweep for
                  foothills of the Andes in western
                  Argentina, 440 miles (710 km)   .&/%0;"  $ØSEPCB  miles across the picturesque foothills, boasting
                  northwest of Buenos Aires                fabulous Andean panoramas at virtually every turn.
                  NUMBER OF                      #VFOPT "JSFT  This dramatic landscape has hundreds of vineyards,
                  WINERIES 700             "3(&/5*/"
                                       $)*-&               from large, family-owned estates to state-of-the-art
                  DAYTIME
                  TEMPERATURE                     "UMBOUJD  boutique wineries and little rustic bodegas.
                                                  0DFBO
                  During the autumn harvest   1BDJmD          A lazy vineyard walk is the perfect prelude to
                  festival in March, expect a  0DFBO
                  daytime average of 82°F (28° C)          intimate tastings with wine experts who speak
                                                           passionately about their produce. There is little
                                                           show here, only great wine. Stop at a high-end   ABOVE Bunches of bluish grapes on the vine, Mendoza
                 Whatever happened to the romance and charm   estate for an evening rooftop tasting. Watching
                 of Napa Valley? It’s an all-too-familiar lament, and   the sun set behind the towering Andes as aromatic   abundant varietals, but its most outstanding wine is
                 one with a simple answer: they’ve been put in   premium varietals roll across your tongue is an   a deep, rich red, made from the Malbec grape, which
                 the shade by Mendoza, Argentina’s premier wine-  exquisite experience. Stay overnight at a luxury   flourishes in the dry air and high altitude. Malbec
                 growing region. Likened to the pre-boom Napa   wine spa before visiting a small bodega that has   enthusiasts can attend gourmet lunches hosted by
                 Valley of the early 1980s, Mendoza is an emerging   remained unchanged for a century, with cobbled   winery owners who pair the wine with local cuisine,
                 destination of empty roads and fabulous, exotic   courtyards that open directly onto the vineyard.   or travel on horseback to vineyards where the grape
                 wines. And the vineyards here, set against a   Here, sweating mules still plough between the   thrives. The riding routes skirt herds of guanacos
                 splendid backdrop of the soaring, white-tipped   vines, grapes are pressed by hand, and ice-cold   beneath the gaze of Andean condors gliding high in
                 Andes, are some of the most scenic in the world.  run-off from the Andes irrigates the fertile land.  the sky. Ahead, among a whirl of soaring rock faces,
                   Mendoza’s roads, many of which are prettily   Mendoza’s wines have at last won the global   is Aconcagua, the highest peak in the world outside
                 lined with poplars and sycamores, gently wind   recognition they deserve. The region produces   Asia. It’s a dizzyingly beautiful scene.

                                                                                                        PRACTICAL INFORMATION
                    FORGET NAPA VALLEY?
                                                                                                       Getting There and Around  (kid goat), a local specialty, and
                                                                                                       There are regular flights from   accompany with a rich Malbec.
                    THE BUILD-UP Napa Valley, which is just an hour north of
                                                                                                       Argentina’s capital, Buenos Aires,   Where to Stay
                    San Francisco by car, is renowned for its world-class wines.                       to Mendoza City. Shuttle buses
                    Each year, hundreds of thousands of enthusiasts visit its 300                      run from Mendoza’s airport to   Nestled at the foot of the Andes
                                                                                                                          in its own vineyards, Cavas Wine
                    or so wineries by bicycle, luxury 4WD, hot-air balloon, or                         the city center. The region’s three   Lodge (www.cavaswinelodge.
                    aboard the Napa Valley Wine Train. Rolling green hills                             main wine-growing areas –   com) boasts luxury suites and
                    provide a picturesque backdrop to wine crawls in the area.                         Luján de Cuyo, Valle de Uco, and   a spa with wine-therapy
                                                                                                       Maipú – are only a short drive   treatments.
                                                                                                       away. Tour agencies run tours of
                    THE LETDOWN Napa has sadly shed much of its original                                                  When to Go
                                                                                                       varying lengths and provide
                    charm. Tours emphasize entertainment over wine and tastings                        itineraries should you wish to   Visit during the harvest season
                    have a happy-hour feel, led by volunteers that are more like                       explore alone.     from February to March, when
                    bartenders than wine experts. Highway 29, the region’s main                        Where to Eat       visitors help with grape-picking
                                                               ABOVE A busy picnic spot at the V. Sattui Winery,          and take part in Vendimia, the
                    road, is bumper to bumper with cars during the high season.
                                                               St. Helena, Napa Valley, California     Housed within the Escorihuela   area’s lively wine-harvest festival.
                                                                                                       Winery – one of Mendoza’s oldest
                    GOING ANYWAY? Try to visit outside the peak season. Spring is a great time to go, when the weather is   wineries – is the sumptuous   Budget per Day for Two
                    warm, there are fewer tourists and the winery owners are less busy. If you plan on traveling in the high   Francis Mallman 1884 restaurant   US$375 including wine tours,
                                                                                                                          accommodations, and dining out.
                    season, aim for a midweek stay and book early-morning tastings to avoid the crowds. Try the wineries on   (www.escorihuela.com), which
                                                                                                       serves classic Argentinian cuisine.   Website
                    the Silverado Trail, a more scenic, less-traveled alternative to Highway 29.
                                                                                                       Order a succulent steak or chivita  www.argentinawineroute.com.ar





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