Page 100 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Lisbon
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98      THE  LISBON  C O AST


                                               the rooms of the monastery,
                                               through the pharmacy, with
                                               fine old medicine jars and some
                                               alarming medical in struments,
                                               to the hospital, where 16
                                               patients in private cubicles
                                               could see and hear Mass in
                                               the adjoining chapel without
                                               leaving their beds.
                                                 Upstairs, the sumptuous
                                               palace state rooms extend
                                               across the whole of the
                                               monumental west façade,
                                               with the King’s apartments
                                               at one end and the Queen’s
                                               apartments at the other, a
                                               staggering 232 m (760 ft) apart.
                                               Halfway between the two,
                                               the long, imposing façade is
       The stunning library in the Palácio de Mafra, paved with chequered marble  relieved by the twin bell towers
                                               of the domed basilica. The
       1 Palácio de Mafra   made ever more extravagant   interior of the church is
                           plans. No expense was spared:   decorated in contrasting
       Terreiro de Dom João V, Mafra.          colours of marble and furnished
       Tel 261 817 550. @ from Lisbon.    52,000 men were employed
       q Campo Grande, then @ Ericeira.   and the finished project   with six early-19th-century
       Open 9am–6pm Wed–Mon (last adm:   eventually housed not 13, but   organs. Fine Baroque
       1 hr before closing). Closed 1 Jan,   330 friars, a royal palace and   sculptures,
       Easter, 1 May, 24 & 25 Dec. 5 &   one of the finest libraries in   executed by
       (free first Sun of the month). 8   Europe, decorated with   members of the
       compulsory. ∑ palaciomafra.pt  precious marble, exotic   Mafra School of
                           wood and countless         Sculpture, adorn the
       This massive Baroque palace   works of art. The   atrium of the basilica.
       and monastery dwarfs the small   magnificent basilica was   Begun by José I in
       town of Mafra. It was built   consecrated on the   1754, many renowned
       during the reign of João V, and   king’s 41st birthday,    Portuguese and
       began with a vow by the young   22 October 1730.  foreign artists trained
       king to build a new monastery     The palace was only   in the school under
       and basilica, supposedly in   popular with those   the directorship of
       return for an heir (but more   members of the royal   the Italian sculptor
       likely, to atone for his well-  family who enjoyed   Alessandro Giusti
       known sexual excesses). Work   hunting deer and wild   (1715–99). Further
       began in 1717 on a modest   boar. Today, a wolf   Statue of St Bruno    on, the Sala da Caça
       project to house 13 Franciscan   conservation project   in the atrium of    has a grotesque
       friars but, as the wealth began   runs here. Most of the   Mafra’s basilica  collection of
       to pour into the royal coffers   finest furniture and art   hunting trophies
       from Brazil, the king and his   works were taken to Brazil when   and boars’ heads. Mafra’s
       Italian-trained architect, Johann   the royal family escaped the   greatest treasure, however,
       Friedrich Ludwig (1670–1752),   French invasion in 1807.    is its magnificent library,
                                 The monastery was   which has a patterned marble
                                 abandoned in 1834   floor, Rococo-style wooden
                                 following the    bookcases and a collection
                                 dis solution of all   of over 40,000 books in gold-
                                 religious orders, and   embossed leather bindings,
                                 the palace itself was   including a prized first edition
                                 finally abandoned in   of Os Lusíadas (1572) by the
                                 1910, when the last   celebrated Portuguese poet,
                                 Portuguese king,   Luís de Camões (1524–80).
                                 Manuel II, escaped
                                 from here to the   Environs
                                 royal yacht anchored   Once a week, on Thursday
                                 off Ericeira.  mornings, the small country
                                   Allow at least an   town of Malveira, 10 km
                                 hour for the lengthy   (6 miles) east of Mafra, has the
       The king’s bedroom in the Royal Palace  tour, which starts in   region’s biggest market, selling




   098-099_EW_Lisbon.indd   98                              17/10/16   11:34 am
     Eyewitness Travel   LAYERS PRINTED:
     Catalogue template    “UK” LAYER
     (Source v2.7)
     Date 1st October 2013
     Size 125mm x 217mm
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