Page 101 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Lisbon

THE LISBON C O AST  99

potential of classic Colares and
growers face a financial struggle
to survive. Their hardy old vines
grow in sandy soil, with their
roots set deep below in clay;
these were among the few
vines in Europe to survive the
disastrous phylloxera epidemic
brought from America in the
late 19th century with the first
viticultural exchanges. The
insect, which destroyed
vineyards all over Europe by
Tractor pulling a fishing boat out of the sea at Ericeira eating the vines’ roots, could
not penetrate the dense sandy
clothes and household goods the last king of Portugal (see soil of the Atlantic coast. Wine
as well as food. At the village of p19), finally sailed into exile can be sampled at the Adega
Sobreiro, 6 km (4 miles) west of from Ericeira as the Republic Regional de Colares on Alameda
Mafra, Zé Franco’s model village was declared in Lisbon; a tiled de Coronel Linhares de Lima.
is complete with houses, farms, panel in the fishermen’s chapel
a waterfall and a windmill. of Santo António above the Environs
harbour records the event. There are several popular
The banished king settled beach resorts west of Colares.
2 Ericeira in Twickenham, south west From the village of Banzão you
London, where he died in 1932. can ride 3 km (2 miles) to Praia
* 7,500. @ n Rua Dr Eduardo
Burnay 46 (261 863 122). ( Jun–Sep: E Museu da Ericeira das Maçãs on the old tramway,
daily; Oct–May: Tue–Sun. which opened in 1910 and still
Largo da Misericórdia. Tel 261 862 runs daily in July and August
Ericeira is an old fishing village 536. Open 10:30am–12.30pm, and from Wednesday to
which keeps its traditions 2:30–5pm Wed. & Sunday from September to
despite an ever-increasing influx June. Just north of Praia das
of summer visitors, from Lisbon Maçãs is the picturesque
and abroad, who enjoy the 3 Colares village of Azenhas do Mar,
bracing climate, clean, sandy * 7,500. @ n Cabo da Roca, (219 clinging to the cliffs; to the
beaches and fresh seafood. 280 081). south is the larger resort of
In July and August, when the Praia Grande. Both have
population leaps to 30,000, On the lower slopes of the Serra natural pools in the rocks,
pavement cafés, restaurants and de Sintra, this lovely village faces which are filled by sea water
bars around the tree-lined Praça towards the sea over a green at high tide and are now closed
da República are buzzing late valley, the Várzea de Colares. A to swimmers. The unspoilt
into the night. Red flags warn leafy avenue winds its way up to Praia da Adraga, 1 km (half
when swimming is dangerous; the village, lined with pine and a mile) further south, has a
alternative attractions include a chestnut trees. Small quantities delightful beach café and
crazy golf course in Santa Marta of the famous Colares wine are restaurant. In the evenings
park and a local history museum, still made, but current vintages and off-season, fishermen
the Museu da Ericeira, exhibiting lack the character and ageing catch bass, bream and flat fish.
model boats and traditional
regional fishing equipment.
The unspoilt old town, a maze
of whitewashed houses and
narrow, cobbled streets, is
perched high above the ocean.
From Largo das Ribas, at the top
of a 30-m (100-ft) stone-faced
cliff, there is a bird’s-eye view
over the busy fishing harbour
below, where tractors haul the
boats out of reach of the tide.
In mid-August, the annual
fishermen’s festival is celebrated
with a candlelit procession to
the harbour at the foot of the
cliffs for the blessing of the boats.
On 5 October 1910, Manuel II, Natural rock pool at Azenhas do Mar, near Colares

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