Page 116 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Lisbon

114  THE LISBON C O AST

one of Setúbal’s architectural
treasures. Designed by the
architect Diogo Boitac in 1494,
the lofty interior is adorned with
twisted columns, carved in
three strands from pinkish
Arrábida limestone, and rope-
like stone ribs decorating the
roof, recognized as the earliest
examples of the distinctive and
ornate Manueline style.
On Rua do Balneário, in
the old monastic quarters, a
museum houses 14 remarkable
paintings of the life of Christ.
Painted in glowing colours,
they are attributed to followers
of Jorge Afonso (1520–30).
E Museu de Arqueologia
e Etnografia
Avenida Luísa Todi 162. Tel 265 239
365. Open 9am–12:30pm, 2–5:30pm
Tue–Sat. Closed public hols.
The archaeological museum
displays a wealth of finds from
digs around Setúbal, including
Bronze Age pots, Roman coins
and amphorae. The ethno-
graphy display shows local arts,
crafts and industries, including
the processing of salt and cork
Manueline interior of Igreja de Jesus, Setúbal over the centuries.
y Setúbal industry here. Rectangular stone + Castelo de São Filipe
tanks can still be seen under the Estrada de São Filipe. Tel 265 550 070.
* 92,000. g @ £ n Travessa Closed until further notice.
Frei Gaspar 10 (265 539 130). glass floor of the tourist office
on Travessa Frei Gaspar. The star-shaped fort was built
Although this is an important in 1595 by Philip II of Spain
industrial town, and the third R Igreja de Jesus during Portugal’s period under
largest port in Portugal (after Largo de Jesus. Tel 917 130 886. Spanish rule to keep a wary eye
Lisbon and Oporto), Setúbal can Open 9:30am–1pm, 2–5:30pm Tue– on pirates, English invaders and
be used to explore the area. To Sat, 9am–12:30pm Sun. 7 Museum: the local population. It used to
the south of the central gardens Tel 265 537 890. Open 10am–6pm house a pousada (see p123) and
and fountains are the fishing Tue–Sat, 2–6pm Sun (3–7pm in its terrace, enjoying fantastic
harbour, marina and ferry port, summer). Closed public hols. Some views of the city and estuary,
and a lively covered market. parts of the museum are currently was a great place for meals and
North of the gardens is the old closed for restoration. coffee, but sadly the entire
town, with attractive pedestrian To the north of the old town, structure – both fort and hotel –
streets and squares full of cafés. this striking Gothic church is was recently found to be in a
The 16th-century cathedral, dangerous condition
dedicated to Santa Maria da and was closed to the
Graça, has glorious tiled panels public. Visitors are
dating from the 18th century, advised not even to
and gilded altar decoration. attempt to drive there.
Street names commemorate
two famous Setúbal residents: Environs
Manuel Barbosa du Bocage Setúbal is an excellent
(1765–1805), whose satirical starting point for a tour
poetry landed him in prison, by car of the unspoilt
and Luísa Todi (1753–1833), Reserva Natural do
a celebrated opera singer. Estuário do Sado, a
In Roman times, fish-salting Fisherman’s boat on the shallow mud flats of the vast stretch of mud flats,
was the most important Reserva Natural do Estuário do Sado shallow lagoons and salt

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