Page 127 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Lisbon
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WHERE   T O  EA T  AND  DRINK      125

                                               Recommended
                                               Restaurants
                                               The restaurants listed in this
                                               guide have been selected for
                                               their atmosphere, quality and
                                               good value. Establishments
                                               range from simple to lavish
                                               and cater to different tastes,
                                               from traditional, home-cooked
                                               recipes to Michelin-starred
                                               gourmet cuisine. They are
                                               listed by area and then by
                                               price, with map references
       Shaded pavement tables on the popular Praça do Comércio, Lisbon  and an indication of the
                                               main type of cuisine offered.
       dishes, such as cataplana    wines, the country’s two most   Standard closures are listed
       (a kind of tightly sealed wok    famous drinks. As far as house   but it is always advisable to call
       in which the food is steamed,   wine is concerned, it is usually   ahead or consult a restaurant’s
       often used for fish and seafood)   of an acceptable quality    website before visiting.
       or porco à alentejana (pork with   to wash down your meal,     DK Choice restaurants stand
       clams), are brought to the table   whatever the standard of the   out from the crowd, whether
       in a pot for diners to share. This   restaurant. Otherwise, ask for   it is for outstanding service,
       is similarly done with large fish,   the carta de vinhos (wine list)   stunning views, intimate
       such as sea bass, which are sold   and choose a Portuguese wine   atmosphere or renowned chefs.
       by weight. One serving    (see pp128–9). Mineral water    These special places are highly
       is large and can usually be   is either com gás (sparkling)    recommended by both local
       shared by two people, and    or sem gás (still). Beer drinkers   and visiting diners and reser-
       it is perfectly acceptable to    should find Sagres and Super   vations are strongly advised.
       ask for a meia dose or half-  Bock to be good lagers, while
       portion instead.    artisan beers such as Sovina
         Peculiar to Portugal is the   are becoming more popular.   Drinking Coffee
       plate of assorted appetizers –   Lisbon also pro vides plenty of   in Lisbon
       perhaps olives, cheese and   opportunities to try ginja, the   Coffee is widely drunk and
       sardine pâté – which is served   local cherry liqueur.  served in many forms. The
       with bread at the start                   most popular, uma bica, is
       of a meal. However,        Paying         a small cup of strong black
       these are not usually                     coffee, like an espresso. For
       included in the            It is common   a weaker version, ask for um
       price of the meal          practice to add    carioca de café. A strong bica
       and an extra                a five or ten per   is called uma italiana. Uma
       charge will be              cent tip to bills.   meia de leite is half-coffee,
       made for each              Note that not all   half-milk. Strong coffee
       item consumed.            restaurants accept   with a dash of milk is known
                                credit cards.    as um garoto escuro (um
                                                 garoto claro is quite milky).
       Vegetarians    Pastéis de nata, or        If you like coffee with plenty
                       custard pastries
       Vegetarians will not     Children         of milk, ask for um galão
                                                 (a gallon). It is served in a
       eat as well as fish-lovers,   The Portuguese view children   glass, and again you can order
       although local cheeses    as a blessing rather than a   um galão claro (very milky)
       and breads can be excellent.   nuisance, so Lisbon is an ideal   or escuro (strong).
       Chefs are usually happy to   city for families to eat out
       provide something without   together. Special children’s
       meat, although this will   menus are not common but
       probably mean just a salad    a meia dose can be ordered.
       or an omelette. A greater
       variety of vegetarian dishes    Smoking
       can be found in the various
       ethnic restaurants.  Smoking is theoretically
                           banned in restaurants and other
                           public places in Portugal, unless
       What to Drink       the establishment has
       It would be a pity to visit   an efficient smoke-extractor   Uma bica  Um galão
       Portugal without sampling    system. In reality, many bars and
       port (see pp128–9) and Madeira   some cafés allow smoking.



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