Page 131 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Lisbon

WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  129

Bairrada is a
region where
the small and
thick-skinned
Baga grape
dominates.
Vinho verde, “green wine”, from It makes big, tannic wines, Ribatejo is the fertile valley of
the Minho region, can be either sometimes with smoky or pine- the Tagus to the north and east
red or white, but the fizzy, dry reds needle overtones and, like the of Lisbon. After Estremadura, it is
are generally consumed locally. older Dão wines, they need time Portugal’s biggest wine region
Typical white vinho verde is bone to soften. Modern wine-making measured by volume, but its
dry, slightly fizzy, low in alcohol and occasional disregard for potential for quality wines has
and high in acidity. A weightier regional regulations have meant only just begun to be realized.
style of white vinho verde is made more approachable reds (often As in Estremadura, Vinho Regional
from the Alvarinho grape, near classified as Vinho Regional bottlings are frequently better
the Spanish border. Among the das Beiras) and crisper whites. than DOC ones. Producers to
best brands are Soalheiro and Quality producers include Luís look for include Quinta da Alorna,
Palácio da Brejoeira. Pato and Caves Aliança. Casa Branco and Fiuza & Bright.

The Douro
region is
best known
as the source
of port wine,
but in most
years about Setúbal, to the south of
half of Lisbon, is best known for its
the wine sweet, fortified Muscat wine,
produced is Moscatel de Setúbal. In
fermented addition, the region also
dry to make table wine, and produces excellent, mostly
these wines are now at the red, table wine. Two big quality
forefront of Portuguese wine- producers dominate the region:
making. The pioneer, Barca Velha, José Maria da Fonseca (see p113)
was launched half a century and JP Vinhos. The co-operative
ago and is both highly regarded at Santo Isidro de Pegões
and among the most expensive. makes good-value wines, while
Other quality producers include interesting smaller producers
Calheiros Cruz, Domingos Alves include Venâncio Costa Lima,
de Sousa, Quinta do Crasto, Hero do Castanheiro and
Niepoort and Ramos-Pinto. Picking grapes for vinho verde Ermelinda Freitas.

Alentejo wine
has possibly
made the
biggest leap
in quality in
recent years.
Long dismissed
Estremadura is Portugal’s by experts as
The Dão region now offers some westernmost wine area and has a region of
of Portugal’s best wines. Small now emerged as a region in its easy-drinking
producers, such as Quinta dos own right. Several producers house reds
Roques, Quinta da Pellada and make modern Vinho Regional for restaurants, this area now
Quinta de Cabriz, and the large wines with character; look for produces some of Portugal’s
Sogrape company make fruity wines by DFJ, Casa Santos Lima, most serious red wines and
reds for younger drinking; fresh, Quinta de Pancas and Quinta a surprising number of
dry whites; and deeper, richer reds do Monte d’Oiro. The most excellent whites. Among
which retain their fruit with age – interesting DOC is Alenquer, a the best producers are Herdade
a far cry from the heavy, hard- full-bodied wine. Bucelas, to the do Esporão, Herdade dos
edged, often oxidized wines south of the region, produces Coelheiros, Cortes de Cima
of the past. characterful white wines. and João Portugal Ramos.

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