Page 138 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Lisbon

136  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

Cafés and Bars glass counter was not laden
with freshly made pastéis de
Coffee is a vital element of the Portuguese way of life and nata or amêndoas (custard or
a vibrant culture has developed around the simple pleasure almond tarts), bolos de arroz
of relaxing over a cup of coffee and a pastry in one of Lisbon’s (rice-flour cakes) or queijadas
many cafés. The Portuguese have a complex classification (cottage cheese tarts). Benard
is next to A Brasileira and gets
system for coffee options (see p125), which modern coffee some of the surplus custom
fashions will not change. Although shortcomings of service from there, but its pastries are
and gastronomy may be allowed to pass in a restaurant, fresher. Confeitaria Nacional
a bad coffee at the end of the meal is a cardinal sin. has been around for nearly
Bar culture is a younger phenomenon. While traditional two centuries and still does
a booming over-the-counter
drinking places such as ginjinha bars live on, the bars that business. The café section gets
make Lisbon’s nightlife one of Europe’s liveliest and most crowded quickly. Uptown is
varied are rarely more than a decade or two old. Bairro Alto is Pastelaria Versailles which is
the city’s best-known bar territory and has the widest choice, airier and has an atmosphere of
but Santos, Bica/Santa Catarina and Cais do Sodré are good faded grandeur. By far the most
areas for bar-hopping too. famous pastry shop is Antiga
Confeitaria de Belém, where
the pastel de nata (known as
Classic Cafés
Oeste, in the modern complex pastel de Belém in Lisbon) is
Foremost among the grand of the Centro Cultural de Belém, said to have been invented.
cafés from the turn of the last is an open-air restaurant set in
century is A Brasileira, perfectly an attractive, minimalist garden
sited at the top of one of overlooking the river, serving DJ Bars
Lisbon’s best shopping streets. freshly made pizza and sushi. Bairro Alto has more bars than
The intellectuals who made it There is also a quieter upstairs most people can ever manage
famous are long gone (there bar, Terraço. Vegetarians will to remember, but among those
is a café-table bronze of poet appreciate Psi, with its small where music is taken particularly
Fernando Pessoa on the popular garden and spiritual vibe. seriously are Clube da Esquina
esplanade), but the atmosphere and O Bom O Mau e O Vilão.
is cosmopolitan. Nicola, down In nearby Bica/Santa Catarina,
in Rossio, has an elegant Art Contemporary Cafés Bicaense has a coolly informal
Deco interior and a busy outdoor A contemporary approach groove. Closer to the river,
seating area with plenty to means more froth in your Lounge is less low key than it
watch. Across the square is milky coffee (do not call it was, but remains dedicated to
Pastelaria Suiça, another latte though), a wider range of non-mainstream sounds. With
boulevard-style café where sandwiches and a lighter touch its “shabby opulent” decor and
the long promenade is its main with meals. It may also mean a top DJs, Capela can get very
attraction. Martinho da Arcada, lounge-like atmosphere, plenty crowded but always attracts an
under the arcades in Praça do of magazines and a serious take interesting mix of people.
Comércio, has an illustrious on music. Exponents of this
history and a beautifully tiled approach include Café no Outdoor Bars
interior. Traffic makes the tables Chiado with a very relaxed
outside less of a treat, unless atmosphere; Vertigo, also in Good bars for sunset viewing,
you opt for the restaurant, Chiado; and the inimitable Pois, warm nights and occasional
which has tables further in. Café with its cosy vaulted living sunrises include Museu da
room near the Sé. While Cerveja, whose prime
Starbucks has now arrived in downtown location affords fine
Park and Garden Cafés Lisbon, try home-grown chains views of the River Tagus. The
Those who appreciate a bit of LA Caffé and Deli Delux for best spot to relax beside the
greenery and no traffic with their style and quality. Tagus is at Quiosque da
coffee should seek out Linha Ribeira das Naus just off
d’Água at the top of Parque Praça do Comércio. Noobai
Eduardo VII. As with many Lisbon Pastry Shops combines great music with
cafés it also serves meals at Pastelarias are a crucial great views from the Santa
lunch time. The pond-side café institution in Lisbon. Less Catarina viewpoint, and is one
in Jardim da Estrela is another raucous and smoky than normal of Lisbon’s most popular spots
attractive option. Pão de Canela cafés and snack bars, they are on warm summer evenings.
is a small café with a terrace on the preferred haunt of ladies of Head for Le Chat beside
Praça das Flores, a quiet square a certain age. However, as with the Museu Nacional de Arte
with a garden in one of Lisbon’s any other customer, they would Antiga for some of the best
cosiest neighbourhoods. Este not bother coming in if the river views in town.

136-137_EW_Lisbon.indd 136 17/10/16 11:34 am
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Practical template “UK” LAYER
(Source v1.7)
Date 5th March 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm