Page 141 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Lisbon
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SHOPPING  IN  LISBON      139

                                               Music and Multimedia
                                Here you can buy
                                almost all regional   The music scene in Portugal is
                                specialities, from   a lively mix of tradition and the
                                cheeses such as serra   very latest trends. Fado music
                                and ilhas to wild game   remains hugely popular, while
                                such as partridge.   techno and trance dance music
                                Smoked hams and   have a dedicated following.
                                spicy sausages are also   Lisbon is also an important
                                popular. If you have a   centre for contemporary music
                                sweet tooth, try some   from former African colonies
                                delicious ovos moles   such as Cape Verde.
                                 (egg sweets) or an     FNAC operates two mega-
       Shoppers browsing in the popular Feira da Ladra  assortment of dried    stores in Lisbon, and these are
                                 or crystallized fruits,   widely regarded as the city’s
       the famous Feira da Ladra   including delicious Elvas plums.  best music shops in terms of
       (Thieves’ Market), a flea market     Other good food shops   variety. FNAC also sells most
       on the slopes of the Alfama   include Garrafeira Dom Pedro   kinds of electronic hardware
       district. Although some stalls   and Manuel Tavares, which has   and software as well as books.
       just sell junk, some bargains can   a large selection of port and   Discoteca Amália in the Baixa
       be found among the array of   madeira. Celeiro Dieta is a   specializes in fado.
       bric-a-brac, second-hand clothes  good health food shop, and
       and general arts and crafts.  is well known for stocking
         For more specialized    organic foods.
       markets, head to Praça do
       Príncipe Real, where the Feira
       de Antiguidades, Velharias e   Wines and Spirits
       Artesanato, an antiques market,   Portugal has a large variety
       is held every last Saturday of the   of wines, fortified wines and
       month, or to the Chiado district   spirits (see pp128–9), ranging
       for the Feira dos Alfarrabistas,   from light vinhos verdes to
       for old books. The Feira de   powerful tintos (reds), from
       Coleccionismo (collectors’   fruity young ruby ports to   Interior of Livraria Bertrand, one of Lisbon’s
       market) takes place in Cais do   ancient tawny ports or madeira,   oldest bookshops
       Sodré every Sunday (9am–1pm).  from sweet amêndoa amarga   Bookshops
         Set in picturesque surround-  (bitter almond liqueur) to fiery
       ings outside Lisbon, the Feira   bagaceira (grapeskin distillate).  Portugal enjoys a great
       de São Pedro, in Sintra, is      Napoleão, the best-known   literary tradition with a range
       a wonderful market selling   wine merchant in Lisbon, has   of authors, past and present,
       everything from new    outlets in many parts of the   including Luís de Camões,
       clothes and old             city, with its   Eça de Queiróz, Fernando
       bric-a-brac, to             oldest shop in    Pessoa and José Saramago.
       maturing cheeses            the Baixa. For port  Translations of their works,
       and cackling fowl.          specifically, visit   and those of other well-
         Along the                 the Solar do   known Portuguese
       Lisbon Coast,               Vinho do Porto   writers, are available in
       the Feira de                (see p56) in the   most large bookshops.
       Cascais has some   Fresh fish for sale at one of    Bairro Alto: this     Livraria Bertrand and
       good clothes   Lisbon’s municipal markets  slightly fusty   Aillaud & Lellos, both in
       bargains, as does           institution is   the Chiado, are among
       the Feira de Carcavelos.    actually a bar where you can   Lisbon’s oldest bookshops.
       Arrive early to beat the crowds.  sample a vast range of ports   Livraria Buchholz, near the
                           before deciding what to    top of Avenida da Liberdade,
                           buy. Garrafeira de Campo de   was founded by a German and
       Food Shops
                           Ourique is one of Lisbon’s best   has a particularly large section
       It is almost impossible to window   smaller wine merchants, and   of books in languages other
       shop in Lisbon’s delicatessens   Coisas do Arco do Vinho has    than Portuguese, including
       (charcutarias) without buying.   a good selection. Alternatively,   travel guides, paperback
       Lined with a vast array of   large supermarkets are good for   fiction and history.
       mouthwatering foods, from   bargains, with frequent special     For an interesting selection
       superb cheeses to tasty smoked   offers on wines and spirits. You   of second-hand books,
       meats and exquisite sweets,   could visit the cellars of José   try visiting the Feira dos
       establishments such as   Maria da Fonseca (see p113) in   Alfarrabistas market, held
       Mercearia dos Açores are a   Azeitão, where you can taste   in the Chiado district on the
       must for all seasoned gourmets.   and buy many of the wines.  first Sunday of every month.




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