Page 51 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Lisbon

BAIX A AND A VENID A  49

9 Nossa Senhora the city, the square became the
da Conceição Velha pièce de résistance of Pombal’s
Baixa design. The new palace
Rua da Alfândega. Map 7 C4.
Tel 218 870 202. @ 759, 794. occupied spacious arcaded
v 18. Open 9am–2pm, 3–6pm daily. buildings extending around
5 7 three sides of the square. After
the 1910 revolution (see p19),
The elaborate Manueline these were converted into
doorway of the church is the government administrative
only feature that has survived offices and painted Republican
from the original 16th-century pink. They have since been
Nossa Senhora da Misericórdia, re-painted royal yellow.
which stood here until the The south side, graced by
1755 earth quake. The portal is two square towers, looks across
decorated with a profusion of the wide expanse of the Tagus.
Manueline detail, including This has ever been the finest
angels, beasts, flowers, armillary gateway to Lisbon: royalty
spheres and the cross of the and ambassadors would alight Shaded arcades along the north side
Order of Christ. In the tympanum, and take the marble steps up of Praça do Comércio
the Virgin Mary spreads her from the river. Parts of the busy
protective mantle over various Avenida Infante Dom Henrique, of Praça do Comércio and
contemporary figures. These which runs along the water- the Tagus river basin. In the
include Pope Leo X, Manuel I front, are lined with restaurants northwest of the square,
and his sister, Queen Leonor, and bars. Leading off the south the Lisboa Welcome Centre
widow of João II. It was Leonor side of the square, the Ribeiras has a tourist information service,
who founded the original das Naus promenade provides gallery, restaurants and shops.
Misericórdia (alms house) on a pleasant waterside pathway In the opposite corner is
the site of a former synagogue. for pedestrians and cyclists Lisbon’s oldest café, the
Enjoyment of the portal is heading towards Cais do Sodré, Martinho da Arcada, formerly
hampered by the constant from where ferries to Cacilhas a haunt of the city’s literati.
stream of traffic along Rua da depart. In the centre of Praça Located on the east side
Alfândega and the cars parked do Comércio is the equestrian of the square, the Lisbon
right in front of the church. The statue of King José I erected in Story Centre is an interactive
interior has an unusual stucco 1775 by Machado de Castro, the museum that highlights the
ceiling; in the second chapel on leading Portuguese sculptor of many important events that
the right is a statue of Our Lady the 18th century. The bronze have shaped the history of
of Restelo. This came from the horse, depicted trampling on the city over the centuries.
Belém chapel where navigators serpents, earned the square On 1 February 1908, King
prayed before embarking on its third name of “Black Horse Carlos and his son Luís Felipe
their historic voyages east. Square”, used by English were assassinated as they were
travellers and merchants. Over passing through the square.
the years, however, the horse In 1974 the square saw the
0 Praça do Comércio has acquired a green patina. first uprising of the Armed
The impressive Arco da Rua Forces Movement which
Map 7 C5. @ 711, 714, 759, 794 &
many other routes. v 15, 18, 25. Arco Augusta on the north side of overthrew the Caetano regime
da Rua Augusta: Rua Augusta 2–10. the square leads to Rua Augusta in a bloodless revolution
Open 9am–7pm daily. & Lisbon and is the gateway to the Baixa. (see p19). Today the vast open
Story Centre: Terreiro do Paço 78–81. An elevator ride to the top space is used for cultural
Tel 211 941 099. Open 10am–8pm affords unparalleled views events and festivals.
daily. & (combined ticket for arch &
museum.) ∑ lisboastorycentre.pt
More commonly known by the
locals as Terreiro do Paço (Palace
Square), this huge open space
was the site of the royal palace
for 400 years. Manuel I transferred
the royal residence from Castelo
de São Jorge to this more
convenient location by the
river in 1511. The first palace,
along with its library and 70,000
books, was destroyed in the
1755 earthquake. In rebuilding Statue of King José I in Praça do Comércio

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