Page 56 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Lisbon

54  LISBON AREA B Y AREA

masonry on to the people
below. Founded in the late 14th
century by Nuno Álvares Pereira,
the commander who became
a member of the Carmelite
Order, the church was at one
time the biggest in Lisbon.
Nowadays the main body
of the church and the chancel,
whose roof withstood the
earthquake, houses the
Museu do Carmo with
a small, heterogeneous
collection of sarcophagi,
Ruins of the 14th-century Igreja do Carmo seen from the Baixa statuary, ceramics and mosaics.
Among the more ancient
1 São Roque St Francis Xavier, the 16th- finds from Europe are a remnant
century missionary. Treasures from a Visigothic pillar and a
Largo Trindade Coelho. Map 7 A3.
Tel 213 235 383. @ 758. Open Apr– from the Chapel of St John the Roman tomb carved with reliefs
Sep: 2–7pm Mon, 9am–7pm Tue–Sun Baptist, including the silver and depicting the Muses. There are
(to 8pm Thu); Oct–Mar: 2–6pm Mon, lapis lazuli altar front, are in the also impressive finds from
9am–6pm Tue–Sun. Closed public adjoining Museu de São Roque. Mexico and South America,
hols. 5 Museu de São Roque: including ancient mummies.
Tel 213 235 380. Open as for church, Outside the ruins, in the Largo
but from 10am Tue–Sun. Closed 2 Igreja do Carmo do Carmo, stands the Chafariz
public hols. & do Carmo, an 18th-century
Largo do Carmo. Map 7 B3. Tel 213
460 473. @ 758. v 28. q Baixa- fountain designed by Ângelo
São Roque’s plain façade belies Chiado. 5 Igreja do Carmo & Museu Belasco, elaborately decorated
a remarkably rich interior. The do Carmo: Open 10am–6pm Mon– with four dolphins.
church was founded at the end Sat (to 7pm Jun–Sep). Closed 1 Jan,
of the 16th century by the 1 May, 25 Dec. &
Jesuit Order, then at the peak of 3 Chiado
its power. In 1742 the The Gothic ruins of this Map 7 A4. @ 758. v 28.
Chapel of St John the Carmelite church, built q Baixa-Chiado.
Baptist (last on the left) on a slope overlooking
was commissioned by the Baixa, are evocative Hypotheses abound for the
the prodigal João V reminders of the origin of the word Chiado, in
from the Italian devastation left by use since 1567. One of the
architects Luigi the earthquake of 1755. most interesting recalls the
Vanvitelli and Nicola As the congregation creak (chiar) of the wheels of
Salvi. Constructed was attending Mass the carts as they negotiated
in Rome and the shockwaves caused the area’s steep slopes.
embellished with lapis Tile detail, Chapel of the church to collapse, A second theory refers to
lazuli, agate, alabaster, São Roque depositing tons of the nickname given to the
amethyst, precious
marbles, gold, silver and
mosaics, the chapel was given The Chiado Fire
the Pope’s blessing in the On 25 August 1988 a disastrous
church of Sant’Antonio dei fire began in a store in Rua do
Portoghesi in Rome, dismantled Carmo, the street that links the
and sent to Lisbon in three ships. Baixa with the Bairro Alto. Fire
Among the many tiles in the engines were unable to enter this
church, the oldest and most pedestrianized street and the fire
interesting are those in the third spread into Rua Garrett. Along
chapel on the right, dating from with shops and offices, many
the mid-16th century and important 18th-century
buildings were destroyed, the
dedicated to São Roque worst damage being in Rua do
(St Roch), protector against Carmo. The renovation project,
the plague. Other features which is now complete, has
of the church are the scenes of preserved many original
the Apocalypse painted on the façades, and was headed by
ceiling, and the sacristy with the Portuguese architect Firemen attending the raging fire
its coffered ceiling, as well as Álvaro Siza Vieira. in Rua do Carmo
painted panels of the life of

054-055_EW_Lisbon.indd 54 17/10/16 11:34 am
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2.7)
Date 1st October 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm