Page 57 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Lisbon

BAIRRO AL T O AND ESTRELA  55

4 Teatro Nacional from Romanticism to
de São Carlos Modernism. The majority are
Portuguese works, often
Rua Serpa Pinto 9. Map 7 A4. Tel 213 showing a marked influence
253 000. @ 758, 790. v 28. q Baixa-
Chiado. Open 1–7pm Mon–Fri. 8 from other European countries.
phone or visit to enquire. ∑ tnsc.pt This is particularly noticeable in
the 19th-century landscape
Replacing a former opera painters who had contact with
house which was ruined by artists from the French Barbizon
the earthquake of 1755, the School. The few international
Teatro de São Carlos was built works of art on display include
in 1792–5 by José da Costa e a collection of drawings by
Silva. Designed on the lines of Rodin (1840–1917) and some
La Scala in Milan, the building French sculpture from the late
Stalls and circle of the 18th-century Teatro has a beautifully proportioned 19th century. There are also
Nacional de São Carlos façade and an enchanting temporary exhibitions which
Rococo interior. Views of the are held for “very new artists,
16th-century poet António exterior, however, are spoiled preferably inspired by the
Ribeiro, “O Chiado”. An area by the car park, invariably permanent collection”.
traditionally known for its crammed, which occupies
intellectual associations, the square in front. The opera
various statues of literary season lasts from September to
figures can be found here. June, but concerts and ballets
Fernando Pessoa, Portugal’s are also staged here at other
most famous 20th-century times of the year.
poet, is seated at a table
outside the A Brasileira. 5 Museu Nacional de
Established in the 1920s, this Arte Contemporânea
was a favourite rendezvous
of intellectuals. do Chiado
The name Chiado is often Rua Serpa Pinto 4–6. Map 7 A5.
used to mean just Rua Garrett, Tel 213 432 148. @ 758, 790. v 28.
the main shopping street of the q Baixa-Chiado. Open 10am–6pm
area, named after the author Tue–Sun. Closed 1 Jan, Easter, 1 May, Grotesque puppet in Museu
and poet João Almeida Garrett 25 Dec. & (free first Sun of month). da Marioneta
(1799–1854). This elegant ∑ museuartecontemporanea.pt
street, which descends from 6 Museu da
Largo do Chiado towards the The National Museum of Marioneta
Baixa, is known for its clothes Contemporary Art, whose
shops, cafés and bookshops. collec tion of 1850–1950 Convento das Bernardas, Rua da
Esperança 146. Map 4 D3. Tel 213 942
Devastated by fire in 1988, the paintings could no longer be 810. @ 713, 727, 760. v 15, 25.
former elegance of this quarter described as contemporary, q Cais do Sodré. £ Santos.
has now been restored. moved to a stylishly restored Open 10am–1pm, 2–6pm Tue–Sun.
On Largo do Chiado stand warehouse in 1994 and started Closed 1 Jan, 1 May, 24 & 25 Dec.
two Baroque churches: the expanding its collection to the & (free 10am–1pm).
Italian church, Igreja do Loreto, present day. The paintings and ∑ museudamarioneta.pt
on the north side and opposite, sculpture are arranged over
Nossa Senhora da Encarnação, three floors in 12 rooms. Each This small puppet museum,
whose exterior walls are partly room has a different theme housed in an elegantly
decorated with azulejos. illustrating the development refurbished convent building,
includes characters from 17th-
and 18th-century theatre and
opera, including jesters, devils,
knights and satirical figures.
Many of the puppets possess
gruesome, contorted features
that are unlikely to appeal to
small children. The museum
explains the history of the
art form and runs videos of
puppet shows. Phone ahead
to see if a live performance is
being held on the small stage.
The popular A Brasileira café, in the Chiado There is also a teaching space.

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