Page 8 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Lisbon
P. 8

6      HOW  T O   USE  THIS   GUIDE
       HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE


       This guide helps you get the most from   sights, using maps, pictures and
       a visit to Lisbon, providing expert   illustrations. Hotel and restaurant
       recommendations as well as detailed   recommendations plus features on
       practical information. The opening    subjects such as entertainment and
       chapter Introducing Lisbon maps the city   food and drink can be found in Travellers’
       and sets it in its historical and cultural   Needs. The Survival Guide contains
       context. Each of the five area chapters,    practical information on everything
       plus The Lisbon Coast, describe important   from transport to personal safety.
       Lisbon                                     Area Map
                                     lisbon  area  b y  area      63  1For easy reference, the sights
       Lisbon has been divided into   BELÉM       covered in the chapter are
       five main sightseeing areas.   at the mouth of the Tagus river, where the   green suburb with many museums,    numbered and located on
                                     parks and gardens, as well as an attractive
                             caravels set sail on their voyages of discovery,
                                     riverside setting with cafés and a promenade.
                             belém is inextricably linked with Portugal’s
       Each of these areas has its own   golden age of Discovery. When Manuel i    on sunny days there is a distinct seaside    a map. The sights are also
                                     feel to the river embankment.
                             came to power in 1495 he reaped the profits
                                      before the Tagus receded, the monks in the
                             of those heady days of expansion, building
                             grandiose monuments and churches that   monastery used to look out onto the river
                                     and watch the boats set forth. in contrast
                             mirrored the spirit of the time. Two of the
       chapter, which opens with a list   finest examples of the exuberant and exotic   today, several lanes of traffic along the busy   marked on the Street Finder
                                     avenida da Índia cut central belém off from
                             Manueline style of architecture are the
                             Mosteiro dos Jerónimos and the Torre de   the picturesque waterfront, and silver-and-
       of the major sights described.   belém. Today, belém is a spacious, relatively   yellow trains rattle regularly past.  maps on pages 166–79.
                             Sights at a Glance
       All sights are numbered    Museums and Galleries  Historic Buildings    1  Belém 2 a 8
                                        Restaurants pp132–3
                                  1 Palácio de Belém
                             2 Museu Nacional dos Coches
                                  q Torre de Belém p72
                             5 Museu Nacional de Arqueologia
                                         2  Nosolo Italia
                                         3  Vela Latina
       and plotted on an Area Map.   6 Planetário Calouste Gulbenkian  t Palácio Nacional da Ajuda
                             7 Museu de Marinha
                                  Monuments
                             0 Museu Colecção Berardo
                                  9 Monument to the Discoveries
                             Parks and Gardens
                             3 Jardim Botânico Tropical   Cultural Centres  A locator map shows clearly where
                                  8 Centro Cultural de Belém
       Information on the sights is easy   r Jardim Botânico da Ajuda   the area is in relation to other parts
                             Churches and Monasteries
                             4 Mosteiro dos Jerónimos pp68–9
       to locate as the order in which   w Ermida de São Jerónimo   of the city.
                             e Igreja da Memória
                                      C. DO MIRAN TE  Á AJU D A
       they appear in the chapter     CALÇADA    DA    AJUDA   Each area is indicated by
       follows the numerical order    RUA  GONÇALVES  ZARCO   C.  DA  MEMÓRIA   RUA DAS MERCÊS   AJUDA  a colour-coded thumb tab
       used on the map.       R.  GIL  E ANES   MUNICIPAL DO  AV.  DA  ILHA  DA  MADEIRA   RUA  1 5    C A L Ç A D A     D O     G A LVÃO    T. D A  M E M Ó R I A   (see inside front cover).
                                 ESTÁDIO
                                 RESTELO
                              RUA    DE    ALCOLENA   R. DOS JERÓNI MOS  RUA  4    RUA  1   CALÇADA   DA  AJUDA
                              AVENIDA  DO  RESTELO
                              RUA  D OM      FRANCISCO   D E     A L M EIDA
                                         maps 1 & 2
           Sights at a Glance    AVENIDA  DA  TORRE  DE  BELÉM  RUA  SÃO  F.  XAVIER  R. DOM LOURENÇO DE ALMEIDA   PRAÇA DO  BELÉM R U A   D E   B E L É M    See Lisbon Street Finder    Stars indicate the sights
                                   JARDIN
                                    PR. ALFONSO DE
                                   VASCO DA
                                     ALBUQUERQUE
                                   GAMA
           lists the chapter’s sights    RUA   BARTOLOMEU   DIAS   IMPÉRIO A V E N I D A     D A     Í N D I A   Fluvial de Belém Belém  that no visitor should miss.
                               VILA CORREIA
                                     Estação
                                AVENIDA  DE  BRASÍLIA
           by category: Churches,   A V E N I D A     D A     Í N D I A    T e j o  0 metres  500 500
                                       0 yards
           Museums and Galleries,
                               64      lisbon  area  b y  area
                             The magnificent Mosteiro dos Jerónimos, a UNESCO World Heritage Site   For keys to symbols see back flap  belÉm      65
           Historic Buildings, Parks
           and Gardens.        street-by-street: Belém   3 . Jardim Botânico
                                                         Tropical
                                                         Exotic plants and
                               Portugal’s former maritime glory, expressed in
                               the imposing, exuberant buildings such as the   trees gathered from
                                                         Portugal’s former
                               Jerónimos monastery, is evident all around   colonies fill these   BelÉm
                               belém. in salazar’s (see p19) attempted revival    peaceful gardens,
                               of awareness of Portugal’s Golden age, the    which were once part   Tejo
                                                         of the Palácio de Belém.
                               area along the waterfront, which had silted up
                               since the days of the caravels, was restructured   locator Map
                               to celebrate the former greatness of the nation.   4 . Mosteiro dos Jerónimos  See lisbon Street Finder maps 1 & 2
                                        Vaulted arcades and richly carved columns
                               Praça do império was laid out for the exhibition
            Street-by-Street Map   of the Portuguese World in 1940 and Praça   adorned with foliage, exotic animals and   19th-century café, sells pastéis de Belém,
                                                            Antiga Confeitaria de Belém, a
                                        navigational instruments decorate the
                               afonso de albuquerque was dedicated to
                                        Manueline cloister of the Jerónimos monastery.
          2This gives a bird’s-eye view   Portugal’s first Viceroy of india. The royal    rich custard in a flaky pastry cup.
                               Palácio de belém, restored with gardens and
                               a riding school by João V in the 18th century,
            of the heart of each of the   briefly housed the royal family after the
                               1755 earthquake.
            sightseeing areas.                  T R A V e s s A   d o s   f e R R e I R o s
                                           l A R g o
                                            d o s
                                            J e R Ó N I M o s  T .   M A R T A   P I N T o
                                    P R A Ç A   d o   I M P É R I o  R u A   d e   B e l É M  Central  Lisbon
           A suggested route for
           a walk is shown in red.                R u A   V I e I R A   P o R T u e N s e
                                                  1 Palácio de Belém
                                                  Also known as the Palácio Cor de Rosa
                                           5 Museu Nacional    (pink palace) because of its faded pink
                                                  façade, the former royal palace is the
                                           de Arqueologia
      70      lisbon  area  b y  area  b elÉm      71  Archaeological finds ranging   residence of the Portuguese president.
                                                  It also houses the Museu da Presidência
                               Torre de Belém   from an Iron Age gold   da República.
                               (see p72)   bracelet to Moorish artifacts   2 Museu Nacional
                                           are among the interesting
            progress in shipbuilding   8 Centro Cultural   0 Museu Colecção   exhibits on display.  dos Coches (see p66)
            from the mid-15th   de Belém   Berardo
            century, capitalizing on
            the experience of long-  Praça do Império. Map 1 B5.    Praça do Império. Map 1 B5.
                                   Tel 213 612 878. @ 727, 728,
                 Tel 213 612 400. @ 727, 728, 729,
            distance explorers.    751. v 15. £ Belém. Open 8am–   729, 751. v 15. £ Belém.    0 metres  50  Praça Afonso de
            Small replicas show the   8pm Mon–Fri, 10am–6pm Sat, Sun &   Open 10am–7pm Tue–Sun. 7   Albuquerque
            transition from the bark   public hols. & 7 ∑ ccb.pt  ∑ museuberardo.pt  0 yards  50  is named after the first
            to the lateen-rigged                         Portuguese Viceroy of
            caravel, through    The construction of a stark   The brainchild of business   India. A Neo-
            the faster square-   modern building between    mogul and art collector José  Praça do Império  Manueline column in
            rigged caravel, to the   the Manueline splendour of    Manuel Rodrigues Berardo,   is the great square in front   Key  the centre bears his
            Portuguese nau. Also   the Jéronimos monastery and   this fascinating gallery, located   Rua Vieira Portuense runs along a small park. Its   statue, with scenes
                                      of the monastery. The
            here are navigational   the Tagus proved controversial.   in the Centro Cultural de  central fountain is lit up   Suggested route  colourful 16th- and 17th-century houses contrast   from his life carved
            instruments, astrolabes   Built as the headquarters of    Belém, boasts around 1,000  on special occasions.  with the typically imposing buildings in Belém.  on the base.
            and replicas of   the Portuguese presidency    The huge pavement compass in front of the Monument to the Discoveries  works by more than 500 artists.
            16th-century maps   of the European Community,   The Museu Colecção Berardo
            showing the world as    the Centro Cultural de Belém   royal patrons and all those who   the Republic of South Africa in   provides a rich compendium
            it was known then. The   opened as a cultural and   took part in the development    1960. The central map, dotted   of a century of modern and
            stone pillars, carved with   conference centre in 1993. It   of the Portuguese Age of   with galleons and mermaids,   contemporary art through
            the Cross of the Knights   stresses music, performing arts   Discovery. The monument    shows the routes of the   a variety of media, from
            of Christ, are replicas of   and films. An exhibition centre   is designed in the shape of    discoverers in the 15th and 16th   canvas to sculpture and
            the types of padrão set   houses the Museu Colecção   a caravel, with Portugal’s coat    centuries. Inside the monument,   from photography to
            up as monuments to   Berardo (see opposite).  of arms on the sides and the   a lift whisks you up to the sixth   video installations.
            Portuguese sovereignty     Both the café and restaurant   sword of the Royal House of   floor where steps then lead      Among the highlights are
                 the building, whose peaceful
                        Henry the Navigator stands at
      Façade of the Museu de Marinha  on the lands discovered.  spill out onto the ramparts of   Avis rising above the entrance.   to the top for a splendid   Pablo Picasso’s Tête de Femme
                                   (1909), a good example of the
                             panorama of the river and
             A series of rooms
                                   Spanish artist’s Cubist style;
            displaying models of
                 gardens of olive trees and
                             Belém. The basement level is
                        the prow with a caravel in hand.
      7 Museu de Marinha  modern Portuguese ships   geometric lawns look out    In two sloping lines either side   used for temporary exhibitions.   several variants of Andy
           leads on to the Royal Quarters,   over the quay and the river.  of the monument are stone   The monument also functions   Warhol’s famous Brillo Box
      Praça do Império. Map 1 B4. Tel 213   where you can see the   statues of Portuguese heroes   as an educational centre where   (1964–8); Jeff Koons’s Poodle
      620 019. @ 727, 728, 729, 751. v 15.
      Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun (Oct–Apr:   exquisitely furnished wood-  linked with the Age of   children can learn about   (1991) and Balthus’s Portrait
      to 5pm). Closed 1 Jan, Easter, 1 May,   panelled cabin of King Carlos   Discovery. On the western face   Portugal’s golden Age of   de Femme en Robe Bleue (1935).
      25 Dec. 8 (213 620 019). & (free   and Queen Amélia from the   these include Dom Manuel I   Discovery and Lisbon’s   Other artists on show include
      first Sun of the month). 7    royal yacht Amélia, built in   holding an armillary sphere, the   chequered history.  Piet Mondrian, Francis Bacon,
      ∑ museu.marinha.pt  Scotland in 1900.   poet Camões with a copy of Os     The Padrão is not to   Willem de Kooning, Richard
             The modern, incongruous   Lusíadas and the painter Nuno   everyone’s taste but the setting   Long and Henry Moore. There
      The Maritime Museum was   pavilion opposite houses   Gonçalves with a paint pallet.  is undeniably splendid and the   is also much Portuguese art
      inaugurated in 1962 in the   original royal barges, the      On the monument’s north   caravel design is imaginative.   on display, including Alberto
      west wing of the Jerónimos   most extravagant of which    The modern complex of the Centro Cultural   side, the huge mariner’s   The monument looks   Carneiro’s sculptures, etchings
      monastery (see p68–9). It was   is the royal brig built in 1780    de Belém  compass cut into the paving   particularly dramatic when   by Paula Rego and dramatic
      here, in the chapel built by   for Maria I. The collection ends   stone was a   viewed from the west in the   black-and-white photographs
      Henry the Navigator (see p23),   with a display of seaplanes,   present from   light of the late afternoon sun.  by Fernando Lemos.
      that mariners took Mass before   including the Santa Clara which   9 Monument to    Detailed Information
      embarking on their voyages.    made the first crossing of the   the Discoveries   Eastern Face of the
      A hall devoted to the   South Atlantic, from Lisbon to   Padrão dos Descobrimentos, Avenida    Monument to
      Discoveries illustrates the   Rio de Janeiro, in 1922.  de Brasília. Map 1 C5. Tel 213 031
                 950. @ 727, 728, 729, 751. v 15.    the Discoveries  3All the sights in Lisbon are
       Vasco da Gama (c.1460–1524)  £ Belém. Open May–Sep: 10am–
                 7pm daily; Oct–Apr: 10am–6pm
       In 1498 Vasco da Gama sailed around   Tue–Sun. Closed 1 Jan, 1 May,    described individually. Addresses
       the Cape of Good Hope and opened   25 Dec. & for lift. ∑ padraodos
       the sea route to India (see pp22–3).   descobrimentos.pt
       Although the Hindu ruler of Calicut, who
       received him wearing diamond and ruby   Standing prominently on the   and practical information are
       rings, was not impressed by his humble   Belém waterfront, this massive
                 angular monument, the Padrão
       offerings of cloth and wash basins, da
       Gama returned to Portugal with a cargo   dos Descobrimentos, was built
       of spices. In 1502 he sailed again to   in 1960 to mark the 500th   Afonso V (1432–81),   provided. The key to the symbols
       India, establishing Portuguese trade   anniversary of the death of   patron of the first explorers  Pedro Álvares Cabral
       routes in the Indian Ocean. João III   Henry the Navigator (see p23).   Henry the Navigator   (1467–1520), discoverer
       nominated him Viceroy of India in 1524,   The 52-m- (170-ft-) high   (1394–1460)  of Brazil
       but he died of a fever soon after in the   16th-century painting of   monument, commissioned    Fernão Magalhães   used in the information block
       town of Cochin.  Vasco da Gama in Goa  by the Salazar regime,   Vasco da Gama   (Magellan), who crossed    Padrão erected by Diogo
                 commemorates the mariners,   (1460–1524)  the Pacific in 1520–21  Cão in the Congo in 1482
                                             is shown on the back flap.
   LS_006-007.indd   6                                       17/10/14   6:24 PM
     Eyewitness Travel   LAYERS PRINTED:
     How to use this book (Source v1.2)  “UK” LAYER
     Date 5th November 2012
     Size 125mm x 217mm
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