Page 9 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Lisbon

HOW T O USE THIS GUIDE  7
T h e L i S bon c o AST  95
THE LISBON COAST
Within an hour’s drive northwest of Lisbon you can reach
the rocky Atlantic coast, the wooded slopes of Sintra or
countryside dotted with villas and royal palaces. South of
Lisbon you can enjoy the sandy beaches and fishing towns Introduction to the Lisbon Coast
along the coast or explore the lagoons of the Tagus and
Sado river estuaries. 1The Lisbon Coast has its own introduction, which
Traders and invaders, from the Phoenicians Despite the region’s rapid urbanization,
to the Spanish, have left their mark in this small fishing and farming communities provides an overview of the history and character
region, in particular the Moors, whose still survive. Lively fish markets offer a huge
forts and castles, rebuilt many times over variety of fresh fish and seafood; Palmela
the centuries, can be found all along this and the Sado region are noted for their of the coast and countryside around Lisbon and
coast. After Lisbon became the capital in wine; sheep still roam the unspoilt Serra
1256, Portuguese kings and nobles built da Arrábida, providing milk for Azeitão
summer palaces and villas in the country­ cheese; and rice is the main crop in the outlines what it has to offer the visitor today. The
side west of the city, particularly on the Sado estuary. Traditional industries also
cool, green heights of the Serra de Sintra. survive, such as salt panning near Alcochete
Across the Tagus, the less fashionable and marble quarries at Pero Pinheiro. area covered by this section is highlighted on
southern shore (Outra Banda, more Though the sea is cold and often rough,
popularly known as the Margem Sul) especially on west­facing coasts, the
could be reached only by ferry until the beaches are among the cleanest in the map of Portugal shown on page 95. It covers
suspension bridge was built in 1966. Now, Europe. As well as surfing, fishing and
the long sandy beaches of the Costa da scuba diving, the region provides coastal resorts and local wildlife, as well as beautiful
Caparica, the coast around the fishing splendid golf courses, horse­riding
town of Sesimbra and even the remote facilities and a motor­racing track.
Tróia peninsula have become popular Arts and entertainment range from palaces and historic towns.
resorts during the summer months. music and cinema festivals to bullfights
Fortunately, large stretches of coast and and country fairs where regional crafts,
unspoilt countryside are being protected such as hand­painted pottery, lace and
as conservation areas and nature reserves. baskets, are on display.
Regional Map
96  the lisbon c o ast the lisbon c o ast  97
2This shows the main
Exploring the Lisbon Coast Getting Around
Motorways give quick access from Lisbon to
north of the tagus, the beautiful hill town of sintra is dotted with historic Sintra, Estoril, Palmela and Setúbal. Main roads road network and gives
palaces and surrounded by wooded hills, at times enveloped in an eerie are generally well signposted and surfaced,
sea mist. on the coast, cosmopolitan cascais and the traditional fishing though traffic congestion can be a problem.
View of the town of Sesimbra, lying at the foothills of the Serra da Arrábida Watch out for potholes on smaller roads. Fast, an illustrated overview
town of ericeira are both excellent bases from which to explore the rocky
frequent trains run west from Lisbon’s Cais
coastline and surrounding countryside. south of the tagus, the serra da
Rocky cliffs along the coast at the Cabo da Roca, the westernmost point of both mainland Portugal and continental Europe do Sodré station to Estoril and Cascais, and
arrábida and the rugged coast around cabo espichel can be visited from from Rossio, Roma Areeiro and Entrecampos
the small port of sesimbra. inland, the nature reserves of the tagus and stations to Queluz and Sintra. For trains south
sado estuaries offer a quiet retreat. to Setúbal, Alcácer do Sal and beyond, use of the region. All entries
Torres Vedras either the Fertagus service or Barreiro station
on the southern bank of the Tagus. There are
Encarnação Turcifal Sobral de Convento da Arrábida in the hills of the Serra da Arrábida good bus ser vices to all parts of the region, are numbered and there
which leave mainly from Sete Rios.
Monte Agraço
Ribamar
Sights at a Glance Santo Isidoro
1 Palácio de Mafra Vila Franca do are also useful tips on
Rosário
2 Ericeira ERICEIRA Sobreiro Murgeira
3 Colares Milharado 0 kilometres 10
5 Monserrate PALÁCIO DE Malveira 0 miles 5 getting around the region.
MAFRA
6 Sintra pp102–7 LISBOA Alverca do
7 Cascais Ribatejo
8 Estoril São João das Cheleiros Lousa
9 Palácio Nacional de Queluz Lampas Póvoa de
pp110–11 Pero Pinheiro Santa Iria Rio Sorraia
0 Alcochete Azenhas do Mar Loures São João da Talha Vila Franca de Xira
q Costa da Caparica Praia das Maçãs Caneças
w Cabo Espichel MONSERRATE
COLARES
e Sesimbra Roca SERRA DE SINTRA SINTRA Odivelas Sacavém Te jo Natural do
Reserva
r Palmela Cabo da Belas Estuário do Tejo
t Serra da Arrábida Canha The Lisbon Coast
y Setúbal Malveira da Serra Alcabideche PALÁCIO NACIONAL ALCOCHETE Ribeira de Canha
DE QUELUZ
u Península de Tróia Guincho R i o
i Alcácer do Sal Samouco
LISBON chapter is indicated by
Tours Boca do Inferno ESTORIL Caxias Almada Montijo Atalaia Pegões Velhos
4 Serra de Sintra CASCAIS Oeiras Rio Frio
Carcavelos Trafaria Barreiro a green thumb tab.
Areeiro Moita Évora
COSTA DA CAPARICA Seixal Pinhal Novo Poceirão
Santo António
da Charneca SETÚBAL
Atlantic Coina Águas Marateca
Ocean Marco do Grilo PALMELA de Moura
Vila Fresca de
Azeitão
Lagoa de SETÚBAL
de Azeitão
Key Albufeira Vila Nogueira SERRA DA ARRÁBIDA Reserva
Natural do
Motorway Tróia Estuário do Sado Palma
Figueirinha
Major road Alfarim Santana 114  the lisbon c o ast Pinheiro Pinheiros Ribeira de São Martinho the lisbon c o ast  115
Estação
Minor road Portinho PENÍNSULA Rio S ado
da Arrábida
SESIMBRA
Scenic route Nossa Senhora DE TRÓIA
do Cabo
Main railway CABO ESPICHEL Baía de Montalvo one of Setúbal’s architectural pine forest, which has been
treasures. Designed by the
explored and inhabited since
Minor railway Setúbal architect Diogo Boitac in 1494, 3500 BC. Otters, water birds
Regional border
Comporta the lofty interior is adorned with (including storks and herons),
ALCÁCER DO SAL oysters and a great variety of
twisted columns, carved in
three strands from pinkish fish are found in the reserve. The
Grândola
Cabo da Roca on the western edge of the Serra de Sintra Arrábida limestone, and rope- old tidal water mill at Mouriscas,
like stone ribs decorating the 5 km (3 miles) to the east of
For keys to symbols see back flap Setúbal, uses the different levels
roof, recognized as the earliest
examples of the distinctive and of the tide to turn the grinding
ornate Manueline style. stones. Rice-growing and fishing
On Rua do Balneário, in are the main occupations today,
the old monastic quarters, a and pine trees around the
museum houses 14 remarkable lagoon are tapped for resin.
paintings of the life of Christ.
Painted in glowing colours, O Reserva Natural do Estuário View over Alcácer do Sal and the Sado river from the castle
they are attributed to followers
do Sado
Detailed Information of Jorge Afonso (1520–30). n Praça da República, Setúbal flats are reached by walkways made an inland trading
(265 541 157).
port here, and the castle
raised on stilts. From here to
E Museu de Arqueologia
e Etnografia Alcácer do Sal, great stretches later became a Roman
3All the important towns Avenida Luísa Todi 162. Tel 265 239 u Península de of pine forest line the road, stronghold. Rebuilt by the
Tróia
and there are the first glimpses
365. Open 9am–12:30pm, 2–5:30pm
Moors, it was conquered by
Tue–Sat. Closed public hols.
of the cork oak countryside
Afonso II in 1217. The buildings
g Tróia. @ n Travessa Frei
and other places to visit are The archaeological museum Gaspar 10 (265 539 130). typical of the Alentejo region. have now taken on a new life
as a pousada (see p122), with
displays a wealth of finds from
T Cetóbriga
High-rise holiday apartments
digs around Setúbal, including
views over the rooftops.
Bronze Age pots, Roman coins dominate the tip of the Tróia N253-1. Tel 265 499 400. Open Oct– There are pleasant cafés
May: 10am–1pm, 3–5:30pm Tue–Sat
described individually. They and amphorae. The ethno- Peninsula, easily accessible (Jun–Aug: to 6:30pm). & along the riverside promenade
from Setúbal by ferry. The
and several historic churches.
graphy display shows local arts,
Atlantic coast, stretching
crafts and industries, including
The 18th-century Santo
south for 18 km (11 miles) of
António holds a marble
the processing of salt and cork
are listed in order, following Manueline interior of Igreja de Jesus, Setúbal industry here. Rectangular tanks, over the centuries. untouched sandy beaches, is i Alcácer do Sal Chapel of the 11,000
now the haunt of sun-seekers
Virgins, while the Cripta
y Setúbal
* 14,000. @ £ n Largo Pedro
Arquelógica exhibits finds
+ Castelo de São Filipe
in the summer.
Nunes 76 (265 247 013). ( 1st Sat
the numbering given on the * 92,000. g @ £ n Travessa carved from stone, can be seen Estrada de São Filipe. Tel 265 550 070. Near Tróia, in the sheltered of month. dating from the Iron Age to
lagoon, the Roman town of
under the glass floor of the
Open daily.
the modern era. The bullring
Frei Gaspar 10 (265 539 130).
Cetóbriga was the site of a
Bypassed by the main road,
is a focus for summer events
Regional Tourist Office on
The star-shaped fort was built
Although this is an important Travessa Frei Gaspar. in 1595 by Philip II of Spain thriving fish-salting business; the ancient town of Alcácer and hosts the agricultural fair
do Sal (al-kasr from the Arabic
during Portugal’s period under
Regional Map. Within each largest port in Portugal (after R Igreja de Jesus Spanish rule to keep a wary eye buildings are open to visit. To for castle, and do sal from its E Cripta Arqueológico
industrial town, and the third
the stone tanks and ruined
in October.
Lisbon and Oporto), Setúbal can
Largo de Jesus. Tel 265 520 964.
the south, smart holiday villas
on pirates, English invaders and
trade in salt) sits peacefully
on the north bank of the Sado
and golf clubs are springing
Open 9:30am–1pm, 2–4pm Tue–Sat,
be used to explore the area. To
the local population. A massive
Castelo de Alcácer do Sal. n 265
entry, there is further detailed the south of the central gardens 9am–12:30pm Sun. 7 Museum: gateway and stone tunnel lead up along the lagoon. river. The imposing castle was 612 058. Open 9:30am–1pm,
Tel 265 537 890. Open 9am–12:30pm,
Further on, Carrasqueira
a hillfort as early as the 6th
3–6:30pm (summer); 9am–noon,
and fountains are the fishing
to the sheltered interior, which
2–5:30pm Tue–Sat. Closed public
2–5:30pm (winter).
century BC. The Phoenicians
is an old fishing community
now houses a pousada (see
harbour, marina and ferry port,
and a lively covered market. hols. Some parts of the museum are p123) and an exquisite small where you can still see
information on important North of the gardens is the old currently closed for restoration. chapel, tiled with scenes traditional reed houses, Birds of the Tagus and
To the north of the old town,
town, with attractive pedestrian
from the life of São Filipe by
with walls and roofs made
Policarpo de Oliveira Bernardes
this striking Gothic church is
Sado Estuaries
streets and squares full of cafés.
from thatch. The narrow fishing
buildings and other sights. The 16th-century cathedral, (1695–1778). A broad boats moored along the mud Many water birds, including black-
terrace offers marvellous
dedicated to Santa Maria da
winged stilts, avocets, Kentish plovers
and pratincoles, are found close to
views over the city and
Graça, has glorious tiled panels
dating from the 18th century, the Sado estuary. areas of open water and mud flats
and gilded altar decoration. as well as the dried-out lagoons of
Street names commemorate Environs the Tagus and Sado estuaries. Reed-
two famous Setúbal residents: Setúbal is an excellent beds also provide shelter for nesting
Manuel Barbosa du Bocage starting point for a tour and support good numbers of little
(1765–1805), whose satirical by car of the unspoilt bitterns, purple herons and marsh
poetry landed him in prison, Reserva Natural do harriers. From September to March,
the area around the Tagus estuary
and Luísa Todi (1753–1833), Estuário do Sado, a is extremely important for wildfowl
a celebrated opera singer. vast stretch of mud flats, and wintering waders. Black-winged stilt, a wader that
In Roman times, fish-salting Fisherman’s boat on the shallow mud flats of the shallow lagoons and salt Thatched fisherman’s cottage in the village feeds in the estuaries
was the most important Reserva Natural do Estuário do Sado marshes with patches of of Carrasqueira
104  the lisbon c o ast sintr a  105
Palácio Nacional de Sintra ViSitorS’ CheCkliSt
at the heart of the old town of sintra (sintra Vila), a pair Practical Information Story boxes explore specific
of strange conical chimneys rise high above the royal Largo Rainha Dona Amélia.
tel 219 237 300.
Palace. the main part of the palace, including the central open 30 Mar–25 Oct: 9:30am–
block with its plain Gothic façade and the large kitchens 7pm daily; 26 Oct–29 Mar: subjects further.
beneath the chimneys, was built by João i in the late 9:30am–6pm daily (last ticket:
30 mins before closing).
14th century, on a site once occupied by the Moorish . Sala das Pegas Closed 1 Jan, Easter, 25 Dec.
rulers. the Paço real, as it is also known, became the It is said that King João I had the ceiling & (free 10am–2pm Sun). 8
favourite summer retreat for the court, and continued panels painted as a rebuke to the court
as a residence for Portuguese royalty until 1910. women for indulging in idle gossip like
chattering magpies (pegas).
additions to the building by the wealthy Manuel i, in . Sala dos Cisnes
the early 16th century, echo the Moorish style. Gradual The magnificent ceiling of the former banqueting hall, painted For all the top sights, a
rebuilding of the palace has resulted in a fascinating in the 16th century, is divided into octagonal panels decorated
amalgamation of various different styles. with swans (cisnes).
Visitors’ Checklist provides
the practical information you
need to plan your visit.
Sala das Sereias
Intricate Arabesque
designs on 16th-
century tiles frame
the door of the
Room of the Sirens.
The Top Sights
4These are given two or more
keY
. Sala dos Brasões 1 Sala de Dom Sebastião,
the bedroom of the young king
The domed ceiling of this majestic room is
decorated with stags holding the coats of 2 Jardim da Preta, a walled full pages. Historic buildings
arms (brasões) of 72 noble Portuguese families. garden
The lower walls are lined with 18th-century 3 Sala das Galés (galleons)
Delft-like tiled panels.
4 the torre dos Brasões has
dovecotes below the cornice are dissected to reveal their
Entrance decorated with nautical rope.
5 the Sala dos Árabes is
decorated with fine azulejos.
1495–1521 Reign of 1683 Afonso VI 1755 Parts of interiors; museums and galleries
10th century Palace 1281 King Dinis orders Manuel I; major dies after being palace damaged 6 the kitchens, beneath the huge
becomes residence restoration of the
of Moorish governor Palácio de Oliva (as it restoration and imprisoned here in great conical chimneys, have spits and
for nine years by
Manueline
earthquake
utensils once used for preparing
was then known) additions brother Pedro II (see pp24–5) royal banquets. have colour-coded floorplans
800 1000 1200 1400 1600 1800 Chapel 7 the ajimene windows, a
1880s Maria Pia
1385 João I orders
1147 Christian reconquest; complete (grandmother of Symmetrical Moorish distinctive Moorish design with a
Afonso Henriques patterns decorate the slender column dividing two arches,
takes over palace rebuilding of Manuel II) is last original 15th-century were added by Manuel I. to help you locate the most
and kitchens
8th century First palace central buildings royal resident chestnut and oak ceiling 8 Sala dos Archeiros, the
established by Moors 1910 Palace becomes a and the mosaic floor of entrance hall
Siren, Sala das Sereias (c.1660) national monument the private chapel. interesting exhibits.
LS_006-007.indd 7 17/10/14 6:24 PM