Page 92 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Lisbon

90  LISBON AREA B Y AREA

A 90-Minute Walk Around of the best. From the square by
Baixa, Alfama, Castelo the church, take Rua Guilherme
Braga and then the steps on the
and Mouraria left (Beco do Loureiro). These
lead to a small square which
opens on Rua da Regueira;
From the late-18th-century splendour of the Baixa, this turn right here and follow it
walk takes you into the alleyways of Alfama, a much older to Rua do Castelo Picão, which
and humbler neighbourhood. Castelo de São Jorge crowns takes you back into the heart of
the hill, standing on a site that has been fortified for
thousands of years. Behind it, Mouraria was the quarter Martim
to which Lisbon’s remaining Moors were relegated after Moniz
Afonso Henriques conquered the city in 1147. Their legacy RUA DOS CAVALEIROS
is believed to survive most notably in the cadences of fado, R.JO ÃO DO OU T E IR O
which is at its most authentic here. R U A D A P A L M A RUA DA MOURARIA
R. MARQUÊS DE PONTE DE LIMA
ESCADA
Walk along Rua da Alfândega PRAÇA i DA SAÚDE R. DO AMENDOEIRA
MARTIM
and turn left on to Rua REGRAS A MARTIM MON I Z
MONIZ
da Madalena. The R. D. D
CALÇADA DE S. ANDRÉ
LARGO
first street on your T. NOVA DE COSTA DO CASTELO RODRIGUES
right is Rua dos R. J. DAS R. DA S. LOURENÇO u DE FREITAS
Bacalhoeiros 3, Rossio S. DOMINGOS U ARTE RU CASTELO DE R UA DE
named after o R . DAS FA R IN H AS SÃO JORGE
the cod PRAÇA DA C O S TA D O C A S T E LO
FIGUEIRA
merchants who S ÃO T O MÉ
DO CASTELO
once dominated it. R. S. CRUZ RECOLHIMENTO BECO DO
Continue along Rua R. DO SALVADOR
dos Bacalhoeiros to C. DO J y r LARGO R. G. BR AGA
the unmistakable Casa C. DO MARQUÊS e DAS PORTAS
DO SOL
1 Equestrian statue of José I in Praça dos Bicos 4 (see p37) t CHÃO DA FEIRA w q RUA DA REGUEIRA 9
RUA DO
DE TANCOS
do Comércio and pass through the RUA DO CASTELO
LG. ADELINO
arch at Arco de Jesus, R U A D A M A D A L E N A R. DO MILAGRE PICAO 8
AMARO
Begin the walk at Praça do which leads via steps up to RUA AUGUSTA R U A D A P R A T A DA COSTA DE S. ANTÓNIO L. DOS LOIOS R. DE SÃO TIAGO 0 R. DE SÃO MIGUEL
Comércio 1 (see p49), which Rua de São João da Praça. RU A D OS COR RE E IR OS RUA N. DE ARAUJO
R. DO TERREIRO
was once the grand maritime Now you have entered R U A D E S ÃO M A M E D E RUA DA SAUDADE R. DOLIMOEIRO 6 7
entrance to Lisbon. The statue Alfama proper, protected by R. DAS PEDRA NEGRAS R. DE SÃO PEDRO
at the centre of the vast square the hulking Sé to the left and MARTIN HO DO TRIGO
RUA DE SÃO JOÃO DA PRAÇA
is of José I, king at the time with a gradually winding web RUA A. ROSA L. DE SÃO
RUA D OS DO U RA D OR E S
R U A D O S F A N Q U E I R O S
of the great 1755 earthquake of small streets, steps and alleys R. DE S. ANTONIO DA SÉ RUA DOS BARÃO
which destroyed the palace and to the right. Head left and R U A D A C O N C E I Ç ÃO VELHO LARGO
most of lower-lying Lisbon (see enjoy a coffee at Pois, Café 5 R U A D E S ÃO J U L I ÃO C. DO CORREIO DE SÉ 5 R. DO CAIS D. SANTARÉM
pp24–5). The grand arcades of (see pp136–7). Then head back 3
the post-earthquake buildings and follow Rua de São João R UA D O C OMÉ RC I O R. DOS BACALHOEIROS 4
RUA DA
surrounding the square 2 faintly da Praça until it becomes Rua ALFÂNDEGA
echo the palace, creating a de São Pedro 6. The stalls CAMPO DAS
somewhat ghostly atmosphere. selling fresh fish along here 2 CEBOLAS
are an Alfama institution. Terreiro
Tips for Walkers The narrow street empties 1 PRAÇA DO do Paço
into Largo do Chafariz de COMÉRCIO
Starting point: Praça do Dentro, with the Restaurante
Comércio do Museu do Fado 7 (see
Length: 3 km (1.9 miles) p145) across the street. To
Getting there: Catch tram 25 re-enter the small alleyways,
or bus 709 or 711 cross the square and head up
Stopping off points: Pois, Café Rua dos Remédios. Stop for
5 is well worth a visit. Alfama lunch at Santo António de
has several cheerful eateries,
including Santo António de Alfama 8 (see p130), in nearby
Alfama 8 and Mesa de Fradesis Beco de São Miguel. Next, find
on Rua dos Remédios. The café Escadinhas de Santo Estêvão or
located just by the statue of Calçadinha de Santo Estêvão and
São Vicente q is a popular climb up to Santo Estêvão
drinking spot. church 9. Lisbon is a city of 6 The lively fish market on Rua de
viewing points, and this is one São Pedro
For keys to symbols see back flap
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