Page 124 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Spain

122  NOR THERN SP AIN

first extracted from deposits The Alhóndiga, a century-old
northwest of the city. Soon, wine warehouse, was converted
steelworks and chemical into a cultural centre in 2010.
factories became a major part It boasts design shops and
of the local landscape. In the last restaurants, a library, a fabulous
two decades, however, many of pool and a rooftop terrace.
the old shipyards and factories West of the city, a funicular
have been replaced by parks, railway ascends to the village
riverside walks, pavement cafés of La Reineta and a panorama
and striking new architecture. across the dockyards.
The city’s medieval heart, the
casco viejo, was built in the 14th E Museo Vasco
century. Here, amid alleys lively Plaza Miguel de Unamuno 4. Tel 94
with pintxos bars, is the arcaded 415 54 23. Open Wed–Mon. Closed
Plazuela de Santiago and the public hols. & (except Thu). 7
Buildings overlooking the Río Nervión Catedral Basílica de Santiago. E Museo de Bellas Artes
in Bilbao The Museo Vasco displays Plaza del Museo 2. Tel 94 439 60 60.
Basque art, folk artifacts and Open Wed–Mon. & (except Wed am
1 Bilbao photographs of Basque life. In & Sun pm). 8 7
the cloister is the Idol of Mikeldi,
Vizcaya. * 345,000. k £ @ g P Palacio de la Música y
n Plaza Ensanche 11, 944 79 57 60. an animal-like carving dating Congresos Euskalduna
_ Santiago (25 Jul), La Asunción from the 3rd to 2nd century BC. Avenida Abandoibarra 4. Tel 94 403
(15 Aug), Semana Grande (late Aug). In the newer town is the large 50 00. Open for concerts. & 8 7
∑ bilbao.net/bilbaoturismo Museo de Bellas Artes (Museum
of Fine Art), one of Spain’s best P Alhóndiga
Bilbao (Bilbo) is the centre of art museums. It displays art Plaza Arriquibar 4. Tel 94 401 40 14.
∑ azkunazentroa.eus
Basque industry. An important ranging from 12th-century
port and the largest Basque city, Basque and Catalan pieces
it is surrounded by high, bare to works by modern artists of
hills. Its suburbs spread 16 km international fame, including 2 Gernika-Lumo
(10 miles) along the Río Nervión Vasarely, Kokoschka, Bacon, Vizcaya. * 16,900. £ @ n Arte-
(Nerbioi) to its estuary. The river Delaunay and Léger. There are kalea 8, 94 625 58 92. _ Aniversario
between Las Arenas and the also paintings by Basque artists. del Bombardeo de Guernica (26 Apr),
fishing port of Portugalete is The jewel in the area’s San Roque (14–18 Aug). ∑ gernika-
crossed via the Puente Col gante, cultural crown is the Museo lumo.net
a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Guggenheim Bilbao (see
This iron transporter bridge, built pp124–5). The museum is part This little town is of great
in 1893, has a suspended cabin of a redevelopment of the city symbolic significance to the
for cars and passengers. On the which includes the expansion of Basques. For centuries, Basque
east bank of the estuary is its port and the metro system, leaders met in demo cratic
Santurtzi (Santurce), from where designed in a futu ristic style by assembly under an oak on a
ferries sail to the UK (see p627). Norman Foster. Another striking hillside here. On 26 April 1937
Bilbao has flourished as an building is the Palacio de la Gernika-Lumo (Guernica) was
industrial city since the mid- Música y Congresos Euskalduna, the target of the world’s first
19th century, when iron ore was designed to resemble a ship. saturation bombing raid, carried
out by Nazi aircraft at the
request of General Franco.
Picasso’s powerful painting (see
pp70–71) of this outrage can
be seen in Madrid (see p303).
The town has since been
rebuilt and is rather dull. But in
a garden, inside a pavilion and
closely guarded, is the 300-year-
old petrified trunk of the oak
tree, the Gernikako Arbola, or Oak
of Gernika, symbol of the ancient
roots of the Basque people.
Younger oaks, nurtured from
its acorns, have been planted
beside it. The Basque people
make visits to this ancient tree
as if on a pilgrimage. The Casa
Zuloaga’s Condesa Mathieu de Noailles (1913), Bilbao Museum of Fine Art de Juntas, nearby, is a former
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp563–4 and pp585–6

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Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2.1)
Date 5th December 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm