Page 128 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Spain
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126      NOR THERN  SP AIN


                                               Beaches
                                               San Sebastián’s two principal
                                               beaches follow the bay round
                                               to Monte Igueldo. The Playa
                                               de Ondarreta is the more
                                               fashionable of the two, while the
                                               Playa de la Concha is the larger.
                                               Between them is the Palacio
                                               Miramar, built in 1889 by the
                                               Basque architect José Goicoa,
                                               to designs by Selden Wornum,
                                               a British architect. The palace,
                                               built for Queen María Cristina,
                                               established San Sebastián
                                               as an aristocratic resort. The
                                               gardens are open to the public.
                                                 At the water’s edge near the
                                               Playa de Ondarreta is a striking
                                               group of modern iron sculp-
       San Sebastián’s Playa de Ondarreta, with its view across the bay  tures, The Comb of the Winds
                                               by Eduardo Chillida. A road
       4 San Sebastián     The Old Town        and a funicular railway, built
                           San Sebastián’s fascinating Old   in 1912, lead to the top of
       Guipúzcoa. * 186,000.
       ~ Hon darribia (22 km). £ @    Town (Parte Vieja) is wedged   Monte Igueldo, where there
       n Alameda del Bulevard 8, 943 48 11   between the bay and the Río   is a small amusement park.
       66. ( Sun. _ San Sebastián (20 Jan);   Urumea. The alleys, packed with     To the east of the Playa de la
       Semana Grande (week of 15 Aug).   restaurants and tapas bars, are   Concha is the surfer’s favourite,
       ∑ sansebastianturismo.com  intensely animated at night. In   Playa de Zurriola, with surf
                           the local fish market, stalls piled   schools and shops, overlooked
       Gloriously situated on a neat,   high with delicacies testify to   by the hill, Monte Ulía.
       shell-shaped bay, San Sebastián   the key role of fish in the town.
       (Donostia) is the most elegant     The heart of the Old Town is   O Aquarium
       and fashionable Spanish seaside   the Plaza de la Constitución, a   Plaza Carlos Blasco de Imaz 1.
       resort. At either end of the bay    handsome, arcaded square. The   Tel 943 44 00 99. Open Easter–Jun &
       is a tower-topped hill – Monte   numbers on the balconies date   Sep: 10am–8pm daily (to 9pm Sat &
       Urgull in the east and Monte   from when the square was used   Sun); Jul–Aug: 10am–9pm daily; Oct–
       Igueldo in the west. Between    as a bullring – organizers sold a   Easter: 10am–7pm (to 8pm Sat & Sun).
       the two, in the mouth of the    ticket for each numbered place.   Closed 1 & 20 Jan, 25 Dec. & 8 7
                                               ∑ aquariumss.com
       bay, lies a small island, the Isla    Nearby are the impressively
       de Santa Clara.     reverent Basilica de Santa Maria   This remodelled aquarium
         San Sebastián became a smart   and the 16th-century church of   boasts a 360-degree
       resort in the late 19th century.    Iglesia de San Vicente.  underwater tunnel, where
       It still has many luxury shops     Monte Urgull rises behind the   visitors can view over 5,000
       and one of Spain’s grandest   Old Town. On the summit are a   fish, including four species of
       hotels, the María Cristina (see   statue of Christ and the ruined   shark. Tickets allow entry to
       p564), but San Sebastián is now   Castillo de Santa Cruz de la Mota,   a Naval Museum, with exhibits
       primarily a family resort.  with old cannons.  of Basque naval history.
         The city is renowned for its
       great summer arts festivals. The
       theatre festival is held in May;
       jazz festivals are held in July; a
       classical music festival, in August;
       and the San Sebastián Inter na-
       tional Film Festival, in September.
       The Semana Grande in August
       is the city’s principal fiesta.
         Cuisine plays a huge part in
       local life: many Basque men
       here belong to gastronomic
       clubs where they gather to
       cook, eat, drink and talk.
       Women are invited to such
       meetings, but they don’t take
       part in the food preparation.  The Comb of the Winds by Eduardo Chillida
       For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp563–4 and pp585–6


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