Page 401 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Spain
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C ASTILLA-LA  M ANCHA      399


       decorated chapels and Gothic
       choirstalls, which were brought
       here from Cuenca Cathedral (see
       p389). There is also outstanding
       ironwork, a Renaissance reredos
       and the font at which the
       Golden Age poet Fray Luis de
       León (1527–91) was baptized.
       Environs
       Two villages near Belmonte
       also flourished under the
       Marquis of Villena. The church
       at Villaescusa de Haro, 6 km
       (4 miles) to the northeast, has
       an outstanding 16th-century
       reredos. San Clemente, some
       40 km (25 miles) further south-  The chalk cliffs of Alcalá del Júcar, honeycombed with tunnels
       east, clusters around two
       near-perfect Renaissance   siege. It was later acquired by   de Júcar, along which you can
       squares. There is a Gothic   the Marquis of Villena. Alarcón   drive for a stretch of 40 km
       alabaster cross in the Iglesia    has drama tic walls and three   (25 miles). Alcalá del Júcar is
       de Santiago Apóstol.  defensive precincts. The small,   dramatically sited on the side
                           triangular castle, high above    of a spur of rock jut ting out into
       P Castillo de Belmonte  the river, has been turned into    the gorge. The town is a warren
       Tel 967 81 00 40. Open Tue–Sun. &  a parador, preserving much of   of steep al leys and flights of
                           its medieval atmosphere.  steps. At the top of the town,
                             The Iglesia de Santa María    below the castle, houses have
                           is a Renaissance church with a   been extended by digging
                           fine portico and an altarpiece   caves into the soft rock. Some
                           attributed to the Berruguete   of these have been transformed
                           school. The nearby Iglesia de   into tunnels cut from one side
                           Santísima Trinidad is in Gothic-  of the spur to the other.
                           Plateresque style (see p29).
                                               Environs
                                               To the west, the gorge runs past
                           a Alcalá del Júcar   fertile orchards to the Baroque
                           Albacete. * 1,350. n Avenida de    Ermita de San Lorenzo. Further
                           los Robles 1, 967 47 30 90 (Sat & Sun   on is the pic turesque village
                           only). ( Sun. _ San Lorenzo    of Jorquera, which wa s an
                           (7–15 Aug). ∑ alcaladeljucar.net  independent state for a brief
       The castle of Alarcón, which has been   period during the Middle Ages,
       converted into a state-run parador  Where the Rio Júcar runs   refusing to be ruled by the
                           through the chalk hills to the   Crown. It re tains its Arab walls. A
       p Alarcón           northeast of Albacete, it cuts a   collec tion of shields is on display
                           deep, winding gorge, the Hoz   in the Casa del Corregidor.
       Cuenca. * 200. n Calle Posadas 6,
       969 33 03 01. _ San Sebastián (20
       Jan), Fiesta del Emigrante (Aug), Cristo   Don Quixote’s La Mancha
       de la Fe (14 Sep). ∑ descubre
       alarcon.es           Cervantes (see p337) doesn’t
                            specify where his hero was born,
       Perfectly preserved, the fortified   but several places are mentioned
       village of Alarcón guards a   in the novel. Don Quixote is
       narrow loop of the Río Júcar from   knighted in an inn in Puerto
       on top of a rock. As you drive   Lápice, believing it to be a
       through its defences, you may   castle. His sweetheart, Dulcinea,
       have the impression of entering   lives in El Toboso. The windmills
       a film set for a medieval epic.  he tilts at, im agining them to
                            be giants, are thought to be
         The village dates back to the   those at Campo de Criptana.
       8th century. It became a key   Another adven ture takes place
       military base for the Recon quest   in the Cueva de Montesinos
       (see pp58–9) and was recaptured   (see p401).  Illustration from a 19th-century
       from the Moors by Alfonso VIII           edition of Don Quixote
       in 1184 following a nine-month



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